Chainsaw mills.

[Neilp1400]

Hi guys. I've been looking into getting a chainsaw mill, never done this before so would like any advice on what I need to buy. Been looking on eBay at these http://bit.ly/1c8Zbtj anyone have one or know what they are like? I have a Stihl 880 for bigger tree work I've been doing doing a lot of lately and have a collection of large oak trunks

Cheers Neil.

[Eddy_t]

Some lovely photos of rob d's arse, just needs the walnut song video to finish it off!

 

 

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[agg221]

You need an Alaskan Mark III mill - with an 880 I would go for the 48" model as you can run them with a shorter bar, which is easier than extending the mill late.

 

What bars do you have? To try it out, the standard Stihl 47" Duromatic will work OK but if you buy bars for milling go for a roller or sprocket nose as it takes less power from the saw and the hard nose heats up more easily which also messes up chain tension.

 

Bolting the mill to the bar you lose the length of the dogs, the sprocket and an inch for the clamp at each end, so typically your maximum cut is 7-8" less than your bar length.

 

You need a ripping chain. Opinions vary but the Granberg chain is reckoned by many to cut slightly faster and leave a slightly better finish. It is however more expensive.

 

For milling you need all teeth to be identical and dead sharp, which you can't do by hand. The Granberg precision grinder is good for this and can be used without taking the chain off.

 

You can find all the above at Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories - run by Rob D who is the same seller as you've found on eBay and is also on this forum.

 

Alec

[muttley9050]

Ditto the above, cheaper to buy direct from chainsaw bars than eBay too.

[mixedangased]

You need an Alaskan Mark III mill - with an 880 I would go for the 48" model as you can run them with a shorter bar, which is easier than extending the mill late.

 

What bars do you have? To try it out, the standard Stihl 47" Duromatic will work OK but if you buy bars for milling go for a roller or sprocket nose as it takes less power from the saw and the hard nose heats up more easily which also messes up chain tension.

 

Bolting the mill to the bar you lose the length of the dogs, the sprocket and an inch for the clamp at each end, so typically your maximum cut is 7-8" less than your bar length.

 

You need a ripping chain. Opinions vary but the Granberg chain is reckoned by many to cut slightly faster and leave a slightly better finish. It is however more expensive.

 

For milling you need all teeth to be identical and dead sharp, which you can't do by hand. The Granberg precision grinder is good for this and can be used without taking the chain off.

 

You can find all the above at Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories - run by Rob D who is the same seller as you've found on eBay and is also on this forum.

 

Alec

 

2nd that and do the hand winch conversion,( better finish on boards )

[Neilp1400]

You need an Alaskan Mark III mill - with an 880 I would go for the 48" model as you can run them with a shorter bar, which is easier than extending the mill late.

 

What bars do you have? To try it out, the standard Stihl 47" Duromatic will work OK but if you buy bars for milling go for a roller or sprocket nose as it takes less power from the saw and the hard nose heats up more easily which also messes up chain tension.

 

Bolting the mill to the bar you lose the length of the dogs, the sprocket and an inch for the clamp at each end, so typically your maximum cut is 7-8" less than your bar length.

 

You need a ripping chain. Opinions vary but the Granberg chain is reckoned by many to cut slightly faster and leave a slightly better finish. It is however more expensive.

 

For milling you need all teeth to be identical and dead sharp, which you can't do by hand. The Granberg precision grinder is good for this and can be used without taking the chain off.

 

You can find all the above at Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories - run by Rob D who is the same seller as you've found on eBay and is also on this forum.

 

Alec

 

Hi Alec.

I only have the standard 30 and 36 inch bars at the moment but will most likely pick up a new bar, ripper chain, grinder and the mill.

I will check out the link you supplied. Thank you very much for you're advice very much appreciated.

Regards Neil

[agg221]

Hi Neil,

 

If your oak logs are under about 28" then I would start by buying a 48" mill, ripping chain to fit your 36" bar and the grinder. This will get you going and let you try it out.

 

You will find a lot of threads on here in the milling section which give good advice on different ways of cutting up a log to get the most out of it, so it's worth using the search function or browsing through.

 

If you haven't already decided what to do with your oak once you've milled it, it's worth doing this before cutting it up, as it determines what thickness to go for.

 

You will also need something to act as a rail to run your first cut down - most people use a ladder which works fine if you want to go to 10-12' or so. There are also rail systems available, but these can wait until you have made a start.

 

Alec

[agrimog]

why does every one suddenly assume the only chainsaw mill is an alaskan?, no-one ever heard of logosols timber jig and big mill systems, a lot easier to use, and can be integrated into bigger an better systems as you progress rthrough top a proper mill system, look them up on you tube before jumping inat the deep end

[youcallthatbig]

or else, just hire a mobile milling service............

[Neilp1400]

Cheers guys all comments very helpful!!

Neil