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Had a go on SRT today, first on Ian flatters' unicender then on a lock jack and RW. And WOW, it's super efficient! Something I could see myself enjoying once I've got the hang of it!

 

One thing I did ask is setting top anchors but still not got my head around fully.

 

Do you bag in as high as possible then DRT to the top as normal? Or can you SRT to the top? Thinking about it DRT seems the more sensible option if its a bit of a difficult crown to get a good anchor in.

 

Once you have found your top point, do you have to pull all your rope through to set a base anchor or do you just tie a running bowline to the top? I understand there are load advantages I.e. base anchor is 2x your weight on the anchor point where a running bowline is just 1x. Then it's retreivability, would a throw line attached to the bowline do for retrieval?

 

Why don't you nomads travel up norf and climb up here :confused1::biggrin:

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Had a go on SRT today, first on Ian flatters' unicender then on a lock jack and RW. And WOW, it's super efficient! Something I could see myself enjoying once I've got the hang of it!

 

One thing I did ask is setting top anchors but still not got my head around fully.

 

Do you bag in as high as possible then DRT to the top as normal? Or can you SRT to the top? Thinking about it DRT seems the more sensible option if its a bit of a difficult crown to get a good anchor in.

 

Once you have found your top point, do you have to pull all your rope through to set a base anchor or do you just tie a running bowline to the top? I understand there are load advantages I.e. base anchor is 2x your weight on the anchor point where a running bowline is just 1x. Then it's retreivability, would a throw line attached to the bowline do for retrieval?

 

Why don't you nomads travel up norf and climb up here :confused1::biggrin:

 

Ive had my wrench for couple weeks now used it for a few jobs and only really now finding my feet with it really it is good i do like it for speed as for anchoring i try to get the throw line as high as possible and base tie you can always get a sling and crab higher up as your final tie in if needed.

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Like Rob mentioned just be aware of the forces. You can obviously get a higher anchor point with 1x force rather than 2x. To complicate matters even more if you base anchor and spread the load over enough forks that are pulling in the right sort of directions you can re direct off some surprisingly skinny stuff. Its all about the angles!!! Most of the time I anchor at the top (fixed on removals, retrievable on a prune) Theres less stretch because you are using less rope in the system and it means you dont have to worry about working near the down leg of rope in a tree or with over enthusiastic groundies near you base anchor.

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Had a go on SRT today, first on Ian flatters' unicender then on a lock jack and RW. And WOW, it's super efficient! Something I could see myself enjoying once I've got the hang of it!

 

One thing I did ask is setting top anchors but still not got my head around fully.

 

Do you bag in as high as possible then DRT to the top as normal? Or can you SRT to the top? Thinking about it DRT seems the more sensible option if its a bit of a difficult crown to get a good anchor in.

 

Once you have found your top point, do you have to pull all your rope through to set a base anchor or do you just tie a running bowline to the top? I understand there are load advantages I.e. base anchor is 2x your weight on the anchor point where a running bowline is just 1x. Then it's retreivability, would a throw line attached to the bowline do for retrieval?

 

Why don't you nomads travel up norf and climb up here :confused1::biggrin:

 

Second that:thumbup1:

Rob's raised some of the questions I've got too. OMTC said he was using a krab/mallion in the bowline to save feeding meters of rope through. Is this an acceptable practice?

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Second that:thumbup1:

Rob's raised some of the questions I've got too. OMTC said he was using a krab/mallion in the bowline to save feeding meters of rope through. Is this an acceptable practice?

 

Hi fella's,

 

IMO the answer to your question is a rated Mallion yes :thumbup1:, a biner no :thumbdown:. A rated Mallion is far better than a biner due to a high chance of exposure to cross/side loading forces that could be applied. (Wrench tighten the Mallion).

 

If your getting started an invaluable resource for me was the TCIA SRT "Best Practices for Arboriculture" It empowers a climber new to single rope with all the information and safety tips in 1 resource.

 

Thread on the manual here http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/srt-single-rope-technique/49791-tcias-best-practices-srt-arboriculture.html.

 

Once you go up down and around SRT your Spiderjack will gather cobwebs :lol:

 

Regards,

 

 

Tony

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Bag in as high as possible and ascend the rope, but definitely not DdRT though. That would defeat the purpose.

You'll need a Pantin then optional are hand ascender and chest loop.

 

 

Sent with my iPhone from me, to you!

 

I've got hand and foot ascenders. The only kit I was missing was the RW

 

So for getting a top anchor, another way, would be using something like a steel biner on the end of the rope to clip on and create an anchor point, sort of changing over like DRT, but instead of running the end of the rope back to yourself, you clip it on the rope and then tighten it back up? In my view that's the best way to do it?

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IMO the answer to your question is a rated Mallion yes :thumbup1:, a biner no :thumbdown:. A rated Mallion is far better than a biner due to a high chance of exposure to cross/side loading forces that could be applied. (Wrench tighten the Mallion).

 

:thumbup1:

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