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Strimmer cable, which one?


Justme
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Why is it the same length across the range then? Rev up an FS85 with the cord the 'correct' length and try it in a bit of light grass. Then do the same with an FS400, especially one with a smaller head on it. The FS400 is at the top of the rev range straight away. No need for it to be there, it's a waste of petrol. A chainsaw operator constantly at the top of the rev range would be told to stop messing around and actually start cutting....

 

A decent operator can tell when a machine is about to become overloaded, and will avoid bumping the cord out that much. As mentioned before, there's a sweet spot. Point is, that sweet spot is a lot different on an FS400 to an FS85. But the 'proper' cord length is the same.

 

Surely then an FS 85 used for anything more than light grass trimming will be subject to the same or even more wear as an FS400 with the cord bumped out a bit more? I know which sounds more overloaded when being used in typical long grass.

 

I think it's operator error with 95% of the machines you see if you're attributing the damage to the longer cord. Too much cord, and a bad technique. Basically no mechanical sympathy :thumbup:

Good points there Doobin, you obviously know your machines well and treat them with respect, but many customers of mine do not understand basic principles and would not know a 'sweet point' from a hole in their *****.

So I have to try to explain the basics or their machines (especially the smaller ones) will suffer.

 

Your point of guard size on different power machines is good. I have not been able to measure Stihls, as I do not stock them. But you got me thinking, so I measured some stock Tanakas.

 

A 24cc machine will swing 9" radius inside the knife, and is meant to use 2.4mm.

 

34cc and upwards machines swing 10.5" of 2.4

 

45cc machines swing 10.5" of 3mm.

 

There is a lot of difference in load between 2.4 and 3.0mm of the same length.

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Good points there Doobin, you obviously know your machines well and treat them with respect, but many customers of mine do not understand basic principles and would not know a 'sweet point' from a hole in their *****.

So I have to try to explain the basics or their machines (especially the smaller ones) will suffer.

 

Your point of guard size on different power machines is good. I have not been able to measure Stihls, as I do not stock them. But you got me thinking, so I measured some stock Tanakas.

 

A 24cc machine will swing 9" radius inside the knife, and is meant to use 2.4mm.

 

34cc and upwards machines swing 10.5" of 2.4

 

45cc machines swing 10.5" of 3mm.

 

There is a lot of difference in load between 2.4 and 3.0mm of the same length.

 

Then I would say Tanaka pay more attention to the real world that their machines will be used in than Stihl do! Why does that not surprise me? :lol:

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i have a knife on the honda which cuts it to correct length do not like having long cord it makes the engine rev hard it shakes the strimmer. but with correct length and string it cuts well. just need to find the right string for strimmer.

that works well does not wear out to quick.

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I understand about the " sweet spot " in the rev range and do have mechanical sympathy but a good bigun will always beat a good littleun . I have no guard so I can run a longer line . 4.0 mm or 3.2 mm ( diamond edge by desert extrusion ) Got 45cc and 55cc . Oregon jet fit heads , no bump feed stuff . I cut the cord to a length I know will be optimum . Occasionally I make them too long so I run it on a wall or similar for a few seconds till the revs come up to that point where you know you are getting the best compromise between width of sweep and rpm . Never had a problem with either of the 2 Huskys .

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Got 45cc and 55cc . Oregon jet fit heads , no bump feed stuff . I cut the cord to a length I know will be optimum . Occasionally I make them too long so I run it on a wall or similar for a few seconds till the revs come up to that point where you know you are getting the best compromise between width of sweep and rpm .

 

You sound like you know your stuff as regards sweet spot and optimum cord length. So how do you not get wound up by the flexiblade becoming that little bit too short almost straight away? And then throwing over half the length away because it's no longer efficient? Bump feed for me all the way.

 

The wall is a good trick when running without a guard. One tip I would add if using a thinner line/bump head is to wear it down slightly too much, then bump it out once. This avoids a weak point where the line enters the head and has been stressed by running against the wall.

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You sound like you know your stuff as regards sweet spot and optimum cord length. So how do you not get wound up by the flexiblade becoming that little bit too short almost straight away? And then throwing over half the length away because it's no longer efficient? Bump feed for me all the way.

 

The wall is a good trick when running without a guard. One tip I would add if using a thinner line/bump head is to wear it down slightly too much, then bump it out once. This avoids a weak point where the line enters the head and has been stressed by running against the wall.

 

Coz the line I use does not " get that little bit short strait away " . If it did that I would not buy it ! :001_smile:

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Coz the line I use does not " get that little bit short strait away " . If it did that I would not buy it ! :001_smile:

Once again guys, remember to keep that line in water, it makes a tremendous difference to its wear resistance.

 

I cut round my garden fortnightly last season using 'dry' 3.5mm flexiblade. In an hour session I had used a whole pack of 24 precuts.

 

This season I have been using 'soaked' 3.5 flexiblade and use only 6 pieces each session.

 

Try it.

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i am going to have to make up something to put cord in to keep wet. eg a old ice bag with wet rags in and put cord inside. now using precut on bearcat be a god idea to keep it soaked. it all comes down to money. if you can save on cord in a day by using less then all the better.

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