Poll: What do you use to sharpen your saw?

[lakeyboy]

Round file flat guide want to have a go with roller guide though

 

 

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[Ashes_Firewood]

I use a Granberg clamp on file guide. It's brilliant, never had my chains cutting so well before. And have a Granberg electric sharpener for doing damaged chains.

[Dan Earp]

Free hand at first , but have changed over to the stihl file guide and its fantastic

 

 

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[Rich Rule]

Freehand.

 

I think freehand is easier to copy the look, shape, angle and depth of the cutter.

 

It does surprise me the number of people who cannot sharpen properly. They cannot see the difference between the angles and depths they are sharpening when it is usually marked on the cutter itself. (Depending on chain type)

[arbogrunt]

agreed Rich, I've worked with blokes who've used saws for years and are hopeless at sharpening....bad angling, wrong files, and the big one - unequal cutter lengths...makes you wonder how some of them get a days work done

[lakeyboy]

How do you go about keeping constant check on cutter lengths? I mean I know you can tell mostly by eye and I always do the same amount of file strokes for each tooth, but the file will remove a different amount of material each time and IMO, you will always file slightly harder one way or the other depending if you are left/right handed. I'm not trying to say anyone is wrong, nor that I am an expert but I don't have time to measure all teeth, identify shortest cutter, file all cutters to the same length ect ect, while I'm at work. Get it sharp keep going.

Please take no offense just wanted to speak my mind, the missus tells me off for doing so most of the time haha

 

 

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[Ashes_Firewood]

With the Granberg guides you can set it so you get equal length cutters easily. Rob has done some very good videos demonstrating how to use them

 

 

 

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[Woodworks]

How do you go about keeping constant check on cutter lengths? I mean I know you can tell mostly by eye and I always do the same amount of file strokes for each tooth, but the file will remove a different amount of material each time and IMO, you will always file slightly harder one way or the other depending if you are left/right handed. I'm not trying to say anyone is wrong, nor that I am an expert but I don't have time to measure all teeth, identify shortest cutter, file all cutters to the same length ect ect, while I'm at work. Get it sharp keep going.

Please take no offense just wanted to speak my mind, the missus tells me off for doing so most of the time haha

 

 

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I check this every 3-4 sharpens depending how much you are taking off with a vernier gauge back in the workshop. Got the vernier cheap from Lidl

[lakeyboy]

more what I was getting at is not having time to do it all while on the job, saw gets dull, quick sharp up get back to work. If I started getting calipers and all sorts out at work, I would get a bollocking! But as you say at home on the bench you can take more time I personally have never worried too much my saws always seem to cut well, but I suppose I may be considered a bit naive as I've only been in the trade for three and a bit years, but when I love doing something I try to learn as much as possible

 

 

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[Rob D]

Freehand.

 

I think freehand is easier to copy the look, shape, angle and depth of the cutter.

 

 

 

 

How do you know if all the cutters are the same sizes though Rich? I've been sharpening for 10 years and although when I look at the chain all cutters look the same size and angle - when I stick a guide on it the guide says otherwise... it's not by much they are out but it's enough.

 

 

Of course I can sharpen free hand and get good(ish) results - but they are not as good or accurate as a guide.