Finishing options

[Big Beech]

So, ive just orderd me one of the Arbortech Power Planer`s and with my new sander and belts will soon be under way making things.

 

Ive a couple of chunks of Oak, that i have laying around for a while and are ready to be gotten on with. Has been sanded with 40 grit then 80 and then will eventually finish with a 180 grit would be smooth enough for my liking.

 

I am fan of the raw linseed oil in how it makes the grain stand out compared to tung oil, but as these will be coffee tables iam looking for a reasonable hard wearing coffee cup finish.

my options are what and how are they best applied?

 

thanks, Simon

[Woodworks]

Linseed oil is indeed a very lovely finish and over the years can become a resistant finish but is very slow drying and takes years to get to the state it can handle heavy use. Boiled linseed is quicker drying but again not going to be very resistant to heat and water for a long time. My choice of oil for a nice looking and water resistant oil is Liberon finishing oil it is not dissimilar to Tung oil but leaves a deeper look and less yellow. Typical application for most oils is the same. Apply liberally and rub hard into surface then wipe of excess before tacky and leave to dry.

[Big Beech]

Linseed oil is indeed a very lovely finish and over the years can become a resistant finish but is very slow drying and takes years to get to the state it can handle heavy use. Boiled linseed is quicker drying but again not going to be very resistant to heat and water for a long time. My choice of oil for a nice looking and water resistant oil is Liberon finishing oil it is not dissimilar to Tung oil but leaves a deeper look and less yellow. Typical application for most oils is the same. Apply liberally and rub hard into surface then wipe of excess before tacky and leave to dry.

 

thanks, and how many coats or just keep applying? and wire wool in between coats? i read that hard woods such as oak need sealers as well? but i may also of read about wetting it (water) then sanding finely to do the same thing?

 

simon

[slackbladder]

OSMO

wood protector takes a lot of beating

[Woodworks]

thanks, and how many coats or just keep applying? and wire wool in between coats? i read that hard woods such as oak need sealers as well? but i may also of read about wetting it (water) then sanding finely to do the same thing?

 

simon

I am not an expert at finishing so don't take this as gospel but I think the idea behind sealing before applying linseed is to stop the oil penetrating so it drys faster but this stops the oil getting deep into the grain so will never look as good. Wetting is used to raise the grain and then you sand it back when dry but I don't see the point as when the oil is dry it will raise the grain and you can sand back then. Another technique is to sand when the linseed is wet as this also helps to seal the grain and speed drying. As for how many coats to use, just use as many as you need to get the desired finish. If you want a low luster 3 or 4 coats might do but if you are looking for a high gloss it could take many more. Most of what I have just said is for linseed oil. Most other oils like Danish and Finishing oil have good instructions on the can. My personal experience is that the more glossy/many coats approach will give better protection but a less natural appearance.

[Paul Smith]

What about Solarez?

[delabodge]

I am not an expert at finishing so don't take this as gospel but I think the idea behind sealing before applying linseed is to stop the oil penetrating so it drys faster but this stops the oil getting deep into the grain so will never look as good. Wetting is used to raise the grain and then you sand it back when dry but I don't see the point as when the oil is dry it will raise the grain and you can sand back then. Another technique is to sand when the linseed is wet as this also helps to seal the grain and speed drying. As for how many coats to use, just use as many as you need to get the desired finish. If you want a low luster 3 or 4 coats might do but if you are looking for a high gloss it could take many more. Most of what I have just said is for linseed oil. Most other oils like Danish and Finishing oil have good instructions on the can. My personal experience is that the more glossy/many coats approach will give better protection but a less natural appearance.

 

now I rarely disagree with you,,but I always wet my timber after 320grit,,,sand again when dry and then 400 grit,,,if its cherry or yew i take it further too 600/800 and sometimes 1200 for a glass finnish,,,,

if you sand after oiling it cloggs the grit paper very fast, and even more so when wet,,,,,but each to there own,,,and having seen your walnut wave,,,you seem to be getting it right,,,,

[muttley9050]

I'm another vote for osmo wood protector. Top stuff and very green. I would also suggest Samsung to 240 as an absolute minimum.

[Woodworks]

now I rarely disagree with you,,but I always wet my timber after 320grit,,,sand again when dry and then 400 grit,,,if its cherry or yew i take it further too 600/800 and sometimes 1200 for a glass finnish,,,,

if you sand after oiling it cloggs the grit paper very fast, and even more so when wet,,,,,but each to there own,,,and having seen your walnut wave,,,you seem to be getting it right,,,,

 

Don't worry about disagreeing with me I am here to learn

 

If sanding with wet linseed oil you use wet and dry paper. Sounds like I should give wetting the wood a try. The Walnut wave was only sanded down to 240 grit with silicon carbide with the grain, I do think this paper leaves a finer finish than other papers of same grade. About 5 coats of the Liberon finishing oil and buffed with 0000 wire wool. I do use finer paper if I can't sand with the grain on something like a bowl. I might try the Osmo stuff again. I tried it once many years back but it never dried but it sounds like I might have had a bad tin.

[Big Beech]

thanks all, will have a look around on line. does any one have any good sites that show how too`s

 

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