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Larch waney-edge cladding with Small Log Mill


Rhob the Log
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More larch! Way! This time tackled the larger log into 1" through and through sections (though took a 1.5" out the middle for some garage shelving. Had someone to help this time so we got it done fairly quickly. Took it home and ripped them in half using the *New TABLE SAW!!!* Sweet! :thumbup: Anyhow, stacked and weighted as the help to hold them up while I nail them in is sadly slow in coming :confused1: People are quite happy to mill it up though!

597663c01f87e_2ndBatchandstuff.jpg.cc79221237520187052664c7099c5bf3.jpg

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Simply tack a nail in at approx correct height to support the lower edge of cladding at one end.

set one end of cladding on nail, then correctly position and secure the other end, with a single nail through the cladding.

Move to the temporary supported end and "sweeten" to final position, and nail.

Then bang all nails home.

Being a thran carnapscious perfectionist wee skitter............ I generally work alone

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Cheers Rob, enjoyed the work! Pics are easy, just put them through a cheap graphics program (Serif) to edit, then save them grouped as a new picture. Not that I'm tarting my images up to make you drool or anything...

 

Simply tack a nail in at approx correct height to support the lower edge of cladding at one end.

set one end of cladding on nail, then correctly position and secure the other end, with a single nail through the cladding.

Move to the temporary supported end and "sweeten" to final position, and nail.

Difflock - have tried clamping one end up followed by positioning the other end but it's very difficult to get the pre-drilled holes to then align with the batten. Approximate is easy with a clamp over 3m, I'll see if it's happier sitting on a nail. Kinda morale sucking task but will give it another go. Cheers for the tip big man!

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Erm?

Why are holes "pre drilled" surely use a cordless and drill as reqd, where reqd.

A steel nail can be used (sharpen the end if needs be) instead of a proper (but more easily broken) drill bit.

Very good for skirting boards btw since it disnay matter iffen one catches the wall behind.

jat

m

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A steel nail can be used (sharpen the end if needs be) instead of a proper (but more easily broken) drill bit.

Very good for skirting boards btw since it disnay matter iffen one catches the wall behind.

 

Well it works, hanging the board on a nail. Simple tricks. Got 4 panels up this evening and will size and finish the rest of the long face soon as I get a spare minute. Easier to drill than bang in a nail near the ends but I can see where you're coming from with skirting.

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  • 1 month later...

I put a good bit of raw larch when making stuff, and tend to use screws over nails. Pre-drill and screw, so you can always take the thing apart at the end of its life. Bit pricier, but... Screws can be left proud till your board finds its final shape and then nipped up - not too much though. Get a combined pilot / countersink drill bit and you're even better off.

We used to fire bottoms of all larch strainers years ago to increase life, but I don't think it made much difference. I've tried flaming larch with a roofing torch and propane, but it seems like a lot of wasted gas to me. (That Kevin bloke has a lot to answer for in my book - giving everyone log cabin envy and dragging all the middle classes into buying tiny bits of woodland and breaking up decent-sized blocks into fun camps...but I digress) if you want it black go for Butinox products or Jotun stains - proper acrylic foreign gear from where it rains and snows a lot. :thumbup1:

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what you going to use as a preservitive, just remember to do both sides, stop the boards cupping as much

 

Larch cladding doesn't need treating, it has a natural preservative. We have got larch on my parents bungalow that's 20yrs old

 

 

http://Www.Copfordsawmill.co.uk

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