Beginners guide to rigging.......

[Mountain man]

Ok, understood.

I'm sure many of us have different rigging lines for different situations.

Ranging from old climbing line with a few nicks and a Krab on the end to nearly new proper "bull rope"

[Stihl Unknown]

The guy asked about lowering light stuff durgh i cant see it causing any more damage than the everyday use of your very own climbing line. I crotch rig on dissmantles regularly makes so much sense especially to get the tips off big branches that have poor drop zone.

[colemanjessenz]

easy answer is a pinto rig , thats a bombproof pulley , you can even do some heavy stuff on it as long as its not shock loading to seriously .I natural crotch quite often for force distribution on removals , i'll be the broken record and say again its all about vector force ......... time and place for everything I say.

[tree-fancier123]

my first climbing rope was Yale XTC plus, says on Yale website also makes ideal bull rope, being dynamic can take a bit of shock loading, also mine has done well when climbing without cambium saver, so probably would be great for dropping branch wood through a fork - not the other end of my climbing line though!

I pampered myself with the new small cast ISC pulley, green one. Beautiful to look at, even if I don't get much tree work.

[Thesnarlingbadger]

This is a great thred and a very useful one, had a lot of fun reading.

I do a far bit of rigging and have been climbing for 5-6 years but there is still a hell of a lot to learn. And I think people need to realise that whatever your experience you can still learn something whether it be a new tekneek for the older boys or the basics and learning about waight distribution, knots etc for the young folks.

Now even though I have done a fair bit of rigging I still don't have all the answers and have a question for people on here. I hope my question will beifit the thread in some shape or form.

So I have a job coming up which is a dreaded popular to reduce, it stands at about 100ft and is having a 15ft reduction. I can not let anything hit the deck and all the people who own the 3 gardens it is over are extremely fussy. There is no where to put a speed line in and I know that every single piece I cut is going to get caught up. Is there any ideas or suggestions of what to do when reducing a large tree using rigging and avoid the ball ache of coming down 20ft every time I cut a piece out?

Thank you for any imput and great thred again Adam. Read the whole thing in one sitting and have even learned a thing or too.

Also one bit of input I will say is whenever doing your final back cut, make sure you give the groundy a shout before hand no matter what, you can get a bit carried away when rigging especially when things start moving quickly. Just the heads up every time will save injury or damage in my opinion.

Thanks again.

[tree-fancier123]

15' doesn't sound much off a 100' tree, it may sound silly, but if you could somehow catch the top by letting it fall into a sling or bit of rope you could cut it into two inch bits and almost chip it while still at the top. Probably not my best idea, but not completely out of the question.

[TIMON]

This is a great thred and a very useful one, had a lot of fun reading.

I do a far bit of rigging and have been climbing for 5-6 years but there is still a hell of a lot to learn. And I think people need to realise that whatever your experience you can still learn something whether it be a new tekneek for the older boys or the basics and learning about waight distribution, knots etc for the young folks.

Now even though I have done a fair bit of rigging I still don't have all the answers and have a question for people on here. I hope my question will beifit the thread in some shape or form.

So I have a job coming up which is a dreaded popular to reduce, it stands at about 100ft and is having a 15ft reduction. I can not let anything hit the deck and all the people who own the 3 gardens it is over are extremely fussy. There is no where to put a speed line in and I know that every single piece I cut is going to get caught up. Is there any ideas or suggestions of what to do when reducing a large tree using rigging and avoid the ball ache of coming down 20ft every time I cut a piece out?

Thank you for any imput and great thred again Adam. Read the whole thing in one sitting and have even learned a thing or too.

Also one bit of input I will say is whenever doing your final back cut, make sure you give the groundy a shout before hand no matter what, you can get a bit carried away when rigging especially when things start moving quickly. Just the heads up every time will save injury or damage in my opinion.

Thanks again.

 

 

Difficult to say without seeing the job.

I'll take a stab though....

Can you set a couple of rigging pulleys high as possible in the tree the main one on the largest stem the other as a re-direct so as to spread the load.?

If so use tip ties. Tape slings with karibiners are quite useful for this and you could place all of the slings in one ascent.

Doing it this way will mean that you lower the stems butt first and hopefully avoid hanging them up.

You will still have to go up and down a bit to cut and then to connect the slings to the lowering line but the main part of the planning and tying would have been done on the initial ascent and you could possibly cut and lower more than one at a time.

Just my two penny's worth.

[Rich Rule]

Just carry the rope to suitable points. Place a light pulley or natural crotch it. Leave a bit of slack in the system to allow the bits to pick up some momentum to clear the crown below. If the tree is the size you say then the groundie will still have enough time to slow the piece before it reaches the floor.

 

We did a large Plane tree this way a number of years ago. The tree covered 8 gardens and took a couple of days to complete the job.

 

Either that or tell them to be realistic, you are not a miracle worker.

[Thesnarlingbadger]

Yeah the asking the customer to be realistic was not really an option apparently, not my job but for someone I work for but I have seen the tree (I'll deffinatly feel like I've had a hard days work afterwards).

How do you mean catch the tips in a rope or sling? Sound like a intreaging idea if a bit of a risky one, however dropping anything out of this tree is a big no no the lads I work with have informed me.

Yeah I think the tip-tie option is possibly the way to go but just a bit worried about the branches snapping out with it being popular and all.

I'll try and get a pick up but it will probably be a before and after one.

Yeah I think whatever I do I will have to let the lumps build up some decent speed but again this is going to send little snapped out bits all over the shop and if these neighbours are as fussy as I've been warned I will no doubt course some sort of grumpy git shouting to high heaven at me.

To exacerbate the whole thing, I have a day to do it with 2 grounds men :-/ (not likely to be finishing it I don't think).

Thanks for all the input and anymore tips will be extremely welcomed. Thank you people.

[tree-fancier123]

How do you mean catch the tips in a rope or sling? Sound like a intreaging idea if a bit of a risky one, however dropping anything out of this tree is a big no no the lads I work with have informed me.

 

I just meant have a long sling or a rope tied on the top and then on the stem below the cut so it flops over and is held after. If I had read your post properly I would have realized that no means no - even 2 inch discs wouldn't be allowed to fall.

Be interesting to hear how it goes on the day