felling cuts

[Steve Bullman]

yep,back cut should never be below the hinge

[madmatt]

can someone please put pictures/vids of the dog tooth, not too sure what youlot call a dogtooth cut....

 

Some one can probably explain it better but this is the rough concept! Can't remember all the percentages of timber etc but some one will inform us. I hope the rough sketch attaches ok.

[Brushcutter]

I learnt your standard 3 cuts on your CS31: Conventional, Dogs Tooth and Split Level. I tend to use the proportions they told us on the course. I quite often use the split level cut i just like it. Never use the leaver though, i use a high lift wedge why try a lift it over when the wedge can do that for you?

 

On CS32 we learnt a sweep out the back and a walk around cut. I hadn't done a medium tree since my course in July and i did my assessment yesterday. Got through although my assessor was a little unhappy with my 25% face cut.

 

Got show the Dainish cut which was some kind of weird dogs tooth thing on CS32.

[Brushcutter]

A dogs tooth cut has your standard 1/5-1/4 of the trees diameter face cut a 10% hinge and a further 1/4 of holding wood at the back.

 

You bore out the centre to form a hinge and cut back to leave a 1/4 0f tue tree as holding wood at the back. cut the 1/4 of holding wood at 45 degrees and cut down to meet your bored out felling cut.

 

Its designed to stop the wood splitting and barber chairing. If cutting greater than guide bar lengh remove some of the dogs tooth your bar will reach all the way across and sether it in one go.

[vduben]

nice one matt,

[bill]

do they show dutchmans? i know technicaly its a ****** up felling cut but it is one of my favourites and invaluable when you need the trunk to well clear the stump....

 

whats a dutchmans?

 

 

cutting the strap on a bore cut should be done parallel or below coming up. there is a danger that your saw could get trapped if you cut above the strap.

 

what do you do if the diameter of the branch isnt width enough to do a bore cut safely? do you make the face cut deeper and then keep cutting on the back cut?

[Marc]

whats a dutchmans?

 

what do you do if the diameter of the branch isnt width enough to do a bore cut safely? do you make the face cut deeper and then keep cutting on the back cut?

 

 

Well i'm still not a 100% sure of what a dutchmans is, but i've been experimenting with mixed results.

 

My understanding is, if a tree or limb, is leaning 90degrees say away from the direction you want to fell it, you can give it a little swing to make sure it goes where you want.

 

I do this by doing a messed up hinge, basically in simplistic terms, you prep the face on the lean side to close earlier than on the none lean side.

As I do my back cut I make the hinge thinner on lean side, and thicker on none lean side, as tree goes over the face closes on lean side pushing and twisting towards open face on none lean side, and the thicker hinge on none lean side helps to bring it down safely.

 

I could be completly misunderstanding the concept, but in practice, with my way, i've had some intresting results and manages to twist trees away from lean and where I want 70% of the time.

 

70% is still to low to risk using this felling cut in critical situation though.

[MattyF]

The main princaple of the dutchmans is to over cut the bottom of the gob cut say an inch or so.....in the back cut still leave a hinge but be aware that you have already lost an inch in the face,when the tree starts to fall on the hinge compression will amount on the over cut bottom of the face causing the spar to kind of jump of the hinge.........bad point is its probably a good way of causing barbers chair as shown on tree spyders web site.

 

Ive used in loads and never had a problem,its great on say willow birch or leylandii where the hinge fibres really hang on and you want the top when dismantling to go in the direction of the face not close up in full swing and snap off and go behind!

found it works great if felling trees at say fence height and you want the tree to clear the fence and not have the buts through the bottom of it.

[Marc]

Intresting, i'll have to look at treesypders website again, as i think i've been doing something else entirley.

 

So what is the benefit of cutting in a further inch or so on the bottom of your hinge, over say a really narrow face cut with the sides of the hinge undermined? I always get reliable results pop'ing out the top that way.

[MattyF]

Intresting, i'll have to look at treesypders website again, as i think i've been doing something else entirley.

 

So what is the benefit of cutting in a further inch or so on the bottom of your hinge, over say a really narrow face cut with the sides of the hinge undermined? I always get reliable results pop'ing out the top that way.

 

imagine as the hinge closes it cant becouse as the inch or so cut out the bottom of the face prevents it from doing so causing it to pop off the hinge and jump...this is not somthing i would do on larger trees as the weight could cause it to barbers chair or ash wich is very prone to barbers chair......