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greenmech feed roller prob.


carlos
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The sensor is little more than a coil and it's resistance isn't the issue, what it should do is make a voltage spike each time the sensor ring passes it so try testing for that. You would need to ask greenmech what the values need to be but by and large these systems aren't all that picky.

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Well I guess it’s more testing then, BTW did you trace the power from the trailer socket to the NS unit etc, rather than merely just put it on another vehicle – in case of a broken wire etc in the cable?

 

Do you have a multi-meter?

 

If so, how about hemming into the wire/s from the sensor to the NS and see if your getting spikes/drops of voltage or brakes in continuity etc. that would be indicative of the sensor working, if you hem-in in such a way that the multi-meter forms the circuit the readout may react fast enough to see the spikes that alter vs. RPM especially if you reduce the readout scale to an appropriate voltage.

 

some of the cheep £15 to £20 multi-meter with quite a lot of functions on the centre rotary knob have Hz (Hz, KHz, MHz) which I have always found useful e.g. with Kabota powered TW chippers, as the NS unit gets its RPM input from the alternator.

 

Some backwards thinking! :stupido2:

How pronounced are the sensor ring/index, if they are not very pronounced and you have the sensor very close it may not be able to distinguish the sensor ring/index from the rest of the flywheel/shaft, whereas moving it away slightly then any index will pass threw the edge of the sensors field while the bulk of the flywheel/shaft is outside the sensors field. :dontknow:

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Hey Carlos, I cover the middle bit of the UK for GreenMech Sales but did own GreenMech chippers as a tree surgery company and worked with Mac in the service department when I first joined them.

 

If the light is flashing red, it indicates that the circuit board is not receiving an input that the rotor is turning.

 

Check the gap between the tip of the sensor and the lugs on the bearing locking collar. Gradually move the sensor inwards from about 6mm away until an indicator light appears in the window on the side of the sensor or the end if it is and older unit. (This assumes that you have first checked the wiring to the box, the male and female socket and the wires that go from the female into the putty). The indicator light on the sensor only lights up when it can measure a pulse, therefore letting you know that it is the correct distance from the lugs. Rotate the flywheel to check that the sensor is seeing the other lugs too. If the sensor is too far away, it cannot measure, if it is too close then it can measure twice thus giving a duff reading.

 

Check also that the two dials inside the box are set at the correct number/letters for your machine as well. A label could be attached to the lid with that reference.

 

If you are not getting an indicator light then replace the sensor for a new one - trial by substitution.

 

Flashing red indicates no motion sensed.

Solid red (pinkish) indicates motion but not fast enough

Green indicates correct rotor speed.

 

Hope this helps....

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hi there, still working on the problem i have just resoldered the new proximity switch to the old plug, iam sure i have done the wires the right way around as i did them one at a time but would like to know if i have it correct??

on the plug the terminals are marked 1, 2, 3. and have a black, brown and blue wire.

then inside the box is a black red and yellow/green wire.

hopfully someone understands this and can help.

cheers carl

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Hey Carlos...

 

Brown (live) goes to pin 1

Black (Neutral) goes to pin2

Blue (Earth) goes to pin 3.

 

let us know how you get on....

 

cheers pete , exactly how i had done it.

just had that little seed of doubt once i had cut it and had know way of checking!

gona go at the machine again tommorrow so will post back findings

 

once again big thanks for help.

carl

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tried moving the proximity switch about with no avail.

checked we had 12v power at the plug going into the white box that was fine.

but still just got the red flashing light.??

we also stuck a multimeter on the two wires in the plug that goes onto the oil flow solanoid below and got about 10.3v regardless of what the revs were doing even if i disconected the proximity switch from the white box i still got the same voltage, it droped to zero when truck lights were turned off.

so any more ideas or checks???

thanks carl

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