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Kilning theory discussion


Big J
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Slightly off topic but Rob if you have any tips on quarter sawing with an Alaskan, perhaps you could post up a thread or a little article on one of your websites?

 

Just considering trying some small scale kilning based around dehumidifier and insulated box so interesting thread. So the consensus seems to be, warm it up, keep it warm, and only slowly reduce the RH over several weeks?

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  • 1 month later...
Yes I'll put up a thread on quarter sawing soon... am using chainsaw mills to cut into quarters then the Peterson to resaw.... but there is a another way to do it using only chainsaw mills.

 

Good discussion ,many valuable points .I dry using an arrowsmith senior in a 15ft fridge box 1and2inch sweet chestnut takes 8 weeks ,easy to dry .Oak I wouldn't try again ,unless quarter sawn.london plane ,or quarter sawn lacewood i prefer to air dry .Never thought of humidity tester ,just monitor water output .Where can I get one?

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Whilst I am sure that the kiln in the link would do a good job, I question the need to spend so much money.

 

Update!

 

Recently opened my first kiln load using a heat recovery unit in place of an extractor fan. Works in exactly the same way, bringing in cool dry air and pumping out hot wet air, but recovers a proportion of the heat lost to bring down the electricity cost.

 

The results were very good indeed, with the most consistant moisture content that I have ever had from a mixed thickness kiln. Lowest MC readings were 8% from some of the inch thick elm and highest were just under 14% from 2 inch fresh sawn cedar. The cycle time has been reduced from 10 weeks to about 7-8 weeks and it runs at a higher and more stable temperature, whilst using less heat to maintain that temperature. I haven't had the bill yet, but I reckon that the unit (which cost me £290 off ebay, not quite new, but virtually unused) has saved me about £250 in electricity for this cycle alone. Additionally, the quality of the boards was very good indeed, not suffering at all for the slightly quicker cycle.

 

It's a slow process, but I'm having a purpose built kiln built on site with a concrete base, thermolite breeze block walls and drive in doors. It means that I can take the air dried packets of timber (I tend to make stacks of 50 odd cubic foot of timber, 5ft wide - ideal for the forklift to lift and to stack in the kiln) and drive them straight in without the need to restack.

 

Also, the air dried oak is now starting to come ready (1.5 inch stock sawn last October down to 26% MC) so the next kiln will feature it, along with some ludicrously quick drying 3 and 4 inch thick lime. That was sawn in February (and it had only fallen over the previous month) and is already down to 23% MC.

 

As usual, anyone needing kilning help, don't hesitate to get in contact.

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