RIKO Farmi Mastersplit wp36

[yebaws]

I'm guessing that this will be a common problem....

 

My wp36 (around 2015, possibly the design has changes since) oils the chain by running a metal roller over a clear silicone tube containing the hydraulic oil each time the lever is pulled to bring the saw down. This squashes the tube and squeezes a bit of oil into the lubrication hole in the bar.

 

Problem is that this section of tube doesn't hold out well. I would say 3 or 4 full days work on the machine and it will be split and need replacing. Not expensive to replace and takes about 10 mins, but quiet fiddly and there's a fair chance that I may have lost a fair bit of oil and put a lot of extra wear onto the bar by the time I've noticed that it has split.

 

The design seems a bit odd to me, as this bit of tube will always have a very limited life, although it does have the advantage of being simple and cheap to fix I suppose (even if it is fiddly getting in there to put the cable ties around it). I've had problems with oilers on chainsaws that work off the rotation of the spindle wearing out, and they are expensive as well as fiddly to fix.

 

Have others had this problem, and have you found any way to make the tube last longer? What type of tube do you use?

[bilke_user]

Had about 1000t through mine now and have never noticed any leakage from the oiler.......as soon as you mentioned it I went out to the shed to check and it looks as good as new (phew!!) I'm sure you can adjust the amount of pressure applied to the pipe by adjusting the distance of the roller bearing that squeezes it, mine has never needed it, but can see the potential problem you describe arising if the bearing is set too close to the pipe while the operating lever is in neutral position.

Thanks for the heads up..........it's now something I'll be checking every time it comes back from a job

[yebaws]

Had about 1000t through mine now and have never noticed any leakage from the oiler.......as soon as you mentioned it I went out to the shed to check and it looks as good as new (phew!!) I'm sure you can adjust the amount of pressure applied to the pipe by adjusting the distance of the roller bearing that squeezes it, mine has never needed it, but can see the potential problem you describe arising if the bearing is set too close to the pipe while the operating lever is in neutral position.

Thanks for the heads up..........it's now something I'll be checking every time it comes back from a job

 

Thanks for that. Makes me realise that I definitely have an issue with mine. I suppose that I may be able to adjust the roller, but wouldn't like to think how I'm going to get at it...

 

Next time you're at your machine, would you mind measuring the external diameter of your oiler pipe please? My machine is second hand, so I don't know if the pipe has been replaced with one that has the wrong diameter. And if you can get at it, seeing a picture of the roller would be really helpful so that I can see if something is up with mine.

[bilke_user]

Thanks for that. Makes me realise that I definitely have an issue with mine. I suppose that I may be able to adjust the roller, but wouldn't like to think how I'm going to get at it...

 

Next time you're at your machine, would you mind measuring the external diameter of your oiler pipe please? My machine is second hand, so I don't know if the pipe has been replaced with one that has the wrong diameter. And if you can get at it, seeing a picture of the roller would be really helpful so that I can see if something is up with mine.

 

Not a problem......I'll take a look and some pics tomorrow for you

 

Didn't measure the hose earlier but it's the same stuff as the hose coming from the base of the tank is, 8 or 10mm clear stuff. Tough stuff.

Edited January 17, 2017 by bilke_user
Adding text

[farmboy3]

How do these processors compare to similar mobile processors,say palax combi 600/700 in terms of output and reliability etc.?

[CalumH]

Johns correct - The pipes OD is 8mm and ID is about 5.5mm.

 

I do tend to have a few lengths of the official hose on the shelf. As well as the none return 'check' valves and 90 degree elbow push fittings

 

Over time the mechanism may need adjusting and although fiddley it is a very basic design.

 

If the bearing is applying to much pressure to the hose then it will naturally wear out faster. There is a section in the manual on how to set the lubrication system but if its not making sense then please don't hesitate to call or email us

 

BR

Calum@Riko

 

[email protected] or call 01420 487300

[bilke_user]

 

Here are some pics showing the roller and pipe it presses and a wider view on how to easily access it.

I manages to get a spanner onto the nut and another (ratchet ring spanner) onto the bolt easily. Maybe not the easiest place to access but if you've ever worked on Japanese bikes it's a breeze.

Always a good sign when you can get access with the camera phone too, really tricky places don't allow such privileged access

 

Cheers,

John

[yebaws]

Thanks for the pics John - very clear. From what I can work out my setup is fine. I may just have some duff tube (the guy who sold me the machine gave it to me). Will try replacing that with OEM stuff. Looks like your tube has been quite well squashed, but is still going strong...

[bushtuckaman]

I wonder if any of the readers on here could help me withja slight problem with my petrol wp36. When extending the ram to split a log, the ram on occasions isn't returning automatically back to the start position. I've oiled all the visible moving parts which seems to help a little but hasn't solved the problem! Anyone had a similar problem and fixed it?

Cheers

[yebaws]

I wonder if any of the readers on here could help me withja slight problem with my petrol wp36. When extending the ram to split a log, the ram on occasions isn't returning automatically back to the start position. I've oiled all the visible moving parts which seems to help a little but hasn't solved the problem! Anyone had a similar problem and fixed it?

Cheers

Could be that you've bent the infeed plate. When you look along the plates that the logs go on, are they parallel? If not (bigger gap at the end away from the splitting knife) the moving one is likely to be bent from dropping a heavy log on it.

 

If it's not that, you may need to adjust the black plastic blocks underneath the moving plate.

 

Mine had a bent plate. Took it apart, bent it back and re-inforced it with angle iron. All working now.

 

Go back to the start of this thread and you'll see a lot of discussion about the issue.