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pileswasp

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Everything posted by pileswasp

  1. pileswasp
    I know someone who's bought one for exactly this reason. Though they seem happy to send him the missing bits as he discovers them (no instructions), it seems as "not quite right" as you would expect it to be. Optimists beware. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  2. pileswasp
    At least 3 possible reasons here: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/maintenance-help/101631-farmi-mastersplit-wp36-ram-sticking.html (junk in the splitting chamber, lack of lubrication, or a broken valve)
  3. pileswasp
    Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  4. pileswasp
    Can't help with your actual question, but - "261 not running right" - the needle bearing would be my first port of call before digging any deeper. They have form. Resetting the auto tune is "5 uniform cuts to length under full load". Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  5. pileswasp
    Not only that, he's an "early adopter"; that's 0001, the first production Exeter. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  6. pileswasp
    There's an air inlet in the base of the flue, but I don't recall it being as controllable as you seem to be thinking. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  7. pileswasp
    Rims *are* a better solution in pretty much every case except the 261 Ran my old 260 on rims for a lot longer than the 20-odd days it took my latest 261 to get switched to a spur. I am cursed with optimism, though, so I keep buying 261s in the hope they will one day be as trouble-free as that 260... Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  8. pileswasp
    In short: unlikely to be relevant. That was (and still is, IME) the 261 and it was the other way round. The problems were rumoured to be to do with a bad run of rim and spline sprockets. Less frequent problems with spurs. Worn/disintegrating needle nearing; worn clutch drum; unreasonably wobbly clutch drum; overheating bar, chain and side plate; "cut off" oiler arm; stalling when idling; unable to start with the chain brake on; ultimately, worn crank so replacing the bearing and drum (and oiler arm, again!) no longer "fix" the problem. Never had a sticking chain (that wasn't due to a fault in the chain) in 3 261s that all suffer the above to some extent. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  9. pileswasp
    Mine started doing this last autumn. Particularly big jolt if I was still rolling back when I pressed the clutch. Drove fine forwards, except I couldn't change down into 2nd. New gearbox was the answer for me. Another cheap trip to the garage! Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  10. pileswasp
    I've got about 200-250 binders just across the border near Broxbourne, Herts, but only 40 stakes left now. Can probably do you the pole if larch is any use. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  11. pileswasp
    I'm prepared to accept that Aspen's better for the environment at point of use, but I've often wondered how it compares at the manufacturing stage and are all these 5l plastic cans returnable? Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  12. pileswasp
    I'm Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  13. pileswasp
    http://smallwoods.org.uk/ do various courses. "Coppicing and Coppice Crafts" by Rebecca Oaks and Ed Mills would be worth a read. I suspect you will get more out of the Dorset Coppice Group, initially, as they are a bit more established. I wouldn't expect it to be a money spinner!
  14. pileswasp
    Sharper drawknife? Or turn the bevel up the other way, perhaps. Not much experience on pine, but with a bit of care with the grain around the knots you should be able to get an incredibly smooth finish with nothing else. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  15. pileswasp
    Lurking mostly, but I'm here. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  16. pileswasp
    From your linked document: "The British eyeshafts have a round or toroidal section eye and are used with a parallel type pin with sufficient clearance in the eye to permit the correct sequence of towing on the pin and braking on the jaw. If the pin is too large or the clearance between the jaw and pin too great, then both towing and braking loads will be put onto the pin." The pin is intended to be smaller than the ring.
  17. pileswasp
    The eyes are 30/40/50mm. The pin is smaller so the trailer is braked by pushing against the jaws.
  18. pileswasp
    Squirrels stripping bark in the canopy? Seems quite bad again around here this year; last year, saw entire trees stripped top to bottom.
  19. pileswasp
    You can book anything from half a day to 12 months, but I suppose 9:30-5:30 might not cut it when you really get the bit between your teeth
  20. pileswasp
    Thanks for the replies, all. Still can't see how to get to the valve without dismantling 3/4 of the machine, but thankfully, spray grease to the rescue (lithium), and all is right with the world.
  21. pileswasp
    http://www.blackhorseworkshop.co.uk/membership-services/ Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  22. pileswasp
    Just noticed it says on the picture: Toronto Blacksmith
  23. pileswasp
    Both sides!
  24. pileswasp
    And here is the clean chamber
  25. pileswasp
    If I let go of the controls with a twang, the ram will usually retract. If I ease off the lever, even slightly, the ram sticks. The lever under the feed table is "sticky". If I poke a stick in and push the bolt that engages with the limit stops in the channel under the feed table, the ram will retract. If I pull it right back, it sticks open and ram keeps going forward until the limit stop hits it, at which point the ram stops, but doesn't return until I poke the bolt. Spoken to Riko and they have never heard of this before and suggest there must be something in the chamber. Waiting for a reply having triple-checked and confirmed, but thought I'd have a try on here. Assuming I'm right and it is a sticky lever/valve, any bright ideas on how to get to it without dismantling everything? Assuming some lubrication will solve everything, what should I "grease" it with? On a phone and can only seem to upload one pic at a time, so here is the bolt.

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