yebaws

Interestingly, you can get a "winter" spout for the oil: Husqvarna Winter Oil Spout For Combi Can WWW.TOOLSTODAY.CO.UK For Use With Combi Can Presumably because the oil is too cold to flow properly in the winter with the stop. Never much liked having the stop for the oil anyway, so I think I'll get one of these for the oil side (cheaper as well), give the oil one a good clean and put it on the fuel side

well it's a couple of quid cheaper than the fuel one for some reason, so I'll go for that. Just have to be careful not to put chain oil in the fuel tank 😬

Would be appreciated please. Although if stihl are anything like husky ones it won't be much cheaper buying just the spout than buying the whole can with spouts 🙁

I knew I would find an exciting thread like this when I started looking for a replacement fuel cap for my husky combi can 😀 Problem with mine is that as well as not closing (that's not such an issue for me, I just push it closed before taking it out of the tank) it has also cracked where it screws on to the can. Mine is like the one pictured by the OP. My question is whether the stihl cap will fit the Husky can, as they appear to be marginally better. Anybody tried this?

I'm not an expert, but I can't see how that would work with the hydraulics. With my WP36, it's not really enough of an issue for me to feel I'd need to make any mods. Doesn't happen too often (especially once the engine is warmed up) and if I'm concentrating I can usually see it coming.

That's interesting. I don't think I've ever stalled mine with the chainsaw!

Stalls the engine unless I'm quick enough to let go of the lever, in which case it returns. Sometimes you can get through awkward logs by pulsing the knife through, but sometimes that just gets the splitting knife completely jammed in the log. Then it's out with the sledge hammer, or failing that the chainsaw..

Thanks, I'll give that a try!

Could also be bent infeed plate. Mine squeaked a lot when it was bent. Look down the length of the machine ad see if the gap between the plates is the same all the way along.

I finally decided to go for the Stihl ms 180 so went online to look for one. Turns out that they will only hand them over in person from a dealer or from a delivery driver from the retailer who can give me a safety lecture first. That rules Stihl machines out for me, living in the Highlands of Scotland. I actually have a local dealer, but they want silly money. Nice one Stihl.

Plenty of advice as I thought - thank you. Not so much aerial pruning as higher up pruning from the ground / cutting the tops off fence posts / smaller bits of firewood. My bigger Husqy starts to get a bit heavy after doing that sort of thing for a while. I think a 12" bar would probably be best. Tempted by the MS170 or MS180. Not at all convinced that cordless electric would be up to the job. Would have to have a go with one first...

Looking to buy a 12/14" saw for the smaller jobs. Probably won't get a huge amount of work so don't want to spend a fortune (£200 max) but don't want to buy a pup either. I'm sure that there's plenty of advice out there ...it will all be appreciated

Firewood processor & operator for hire. Please note - I'm in the HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND. Will travel up to 40 miles from PH34. Can cut and split logs up to 12" in diameter, 2 or 4 way, up to 50cm long Will process several tonnes a day - more with one or two helpers to load logs Please PM me if you're interested

Could be that you've bent the infeed plate. When you look along the plates that the logs go on, are they parallel? If not (bigger gap at the end away from the splitting knife) the moving one is likely to be bent from dropping a heavy log on it. If it's not that, you may need to adjust the black plastic blocks underneath the moving plate. Mine had a bent plate. Took it apart, bent it back and re-inforced it with angle iron. All working now. Go back to the start of this thread and you'll see a lot of discussion about the issue.

Thanks for the pics John - very clear. From what I can work out my setup is fine. I may just have some duff tube (the guy who sold me the machine gave it to me). Will try replacing that with OEM stuff. Looks like your tube has been quite well squashed, but is still going strong...

Thanks for that. Makes me realise that I definitely have an issue with mine. I suppose that I may be able to adjust the roller, but wouldn't like to think how I'm going to get at it... Next time you're at your machine, would you mind measuring the external diameter of your oiler pipe please? My machine is second hand, so I don't know if the pipe has been replaced with one that has the wrong diameter. And if you can get at it, seeing a picture of the roller would be really helpful so that I can see if something is up with mine.

I'm guessing that this will be a common problem.... My wp36 (around 2015, possibly the design has changes since) oils the chain by running a metal roller over a clear silicone tube containing the hydraulic oil each time the lever is pulled to bring the saw down. This squashes the tube and squeezes a bit of oil into the lubrication hole in the bar. Problem is that this section of tube doesn't hold out well. I would say 3 or 4 full days work on the machine and it will be split and need replacing. Not expensive to replace and takes about 10 mins, but quiet fiddly and there's a fair chance that I may have lost a fair bit of oil and put a lot of extra wear onto the bar by the time I've noticed that it has split. The design seems a bit odd to me, as this bit of tube will always have a very limited life, although it does have the advantage of being simple and cheap to fix I suppose (even if it is fiddly getting in there to put the cable ties around it). I've had problems with oilers on chainsaws that work off the rotation of the spindle wearing out, and they are expensive as well as fiddly to fix. Have others had this problem, and have you found any way to make the tube last longer? What type of tube do you use?

working a firewood processor upside down could be pretty dodgy...

this thread is getting gory now...

excellent, thanks. Will do that too with a bit of angle iron when I get my grinder sorted.

Thanks for sharing these mods. I already have a similar setup for standalone splitting with cord and handle, except I just use the slot in top that's already there (no need to even drill a hole). Middle guide looks useful. I don't have short logs, but having that extra guide would reduce the chance of dropped heavy logs bending my infeed plate again (just in the process of reinforcing this). Another mod I had thought of was extending the arms of the V on the existing first roller - would make it easier to slide logs into it. Another one would be to channel the starter cord somehow so that the engine could be re-started from the operators side after it stalls. That could be a bit more fiddly...

Finally have the ram disconnected and the infeed plate out and straightened. I killed my angle grinder cutting down the angle iron to reinforce it 'though , so will have to wait for a part for that before I can weld the reinforcement on and put the machine back together... My mistake was a stupid one - the first thing I did was to take out the three bolts at the end of the splitting box. I was I bit annoyed with myself at doing this as two of them had been welded to the bracket inside the box that the ram slotted into. Taking them out broke the weld and wasn't necessary anyway. So I put all of the bolts back. Then realised today that one of the bolts was actually holding the ram in the bracket. It was moving when I lifted it, but not coming out as it was swivelling on the remaining bolt. So, bolt out, ram and bent plate out in no time, no need to disconnect any hoses either. Straightening the plate was a bit of a business. Thanks everybody for all your help!

Have just spent the best part of a day trying to remove the ram. I see the theory about lifting it with a bar. When I do I can see the bit that slots into the end of the splitting box move out a little (looks like it should slide out to the top left) but it won't shift enough to come out. Have tried putting wedges down to the end of the splitting box, tried with the ram extended and with the ram in, with the pin out and with the pin on. Still can't get it out. Thoroughly stumped now. Will try Riko next but if anybody has any ideas on the meantime, much appreciated...

Thanks for that. Yes, I can see now that the weld is just a washer. I wish my machine was that shiny...Is detaching the hydraulic pipes fairly straightforward? Luckily I have fitted a valve under the oil tank, so I won't need to drain. When re-fixing the pipes, do I need to get the air out somehow? No experience with hydraulics...

The weld at the top of the pin This is the pin, right? (diagonal) I took these bolts out - a mistake So if I remove the plate with the ram, it will mean detaching the hydraulics also. Never done this before, but I assume that's do too difficult?