Chisel and Semi/Micro Chisel

[blazer]

If you are about to take your CS30/31, my tip is to buy a semi chain as a new full chain will jump about a bit when doing letterboxing, whereas the semi will give you much more control. OK I don't do as much as others but I have found it all in saw sharpening technique. I do a large sharpening session with chains finally set not by a gauge but by how well they cut, then do a box full of spare chains (old ones for stumps). So if I'm working and a chain goes blunt, it's just a case of swopping over - ex boy scout:thumbup1:

[NI Tree]

I've found myself going off full chisel a bit. When on tonnage work, the lack of durability can be a pain. Additionally, if you have hit something nasty, it's harder to get the edge back.

 

i would agree with you to but i run both, bit i hardly change between them.

 

full chisel for soft wood mostly as on hardwood as ther leading edge is a lot small than semi so it takes to damage as you are aplying a higher force on it.

[Nat]

I've given up on full chisel, blunts off far too quick with the timber I end up with.

 

Only buying semi now, I can't tell any difference in speed except it cuts for a lot longer.

 

I do have an Oregon Multicut which only comes in full chisel, and it is very good chain.

Still doesn't survive an interface with the roadplanings the yard is made of....

[Rob D]

Here's some pics of full chisel and semi chisel (although the manufacturers have slightly confused the issue by adding their own micro chisel which I think is somewhere in between the 2).

 

I spent a long time putting together a chain manual to unravel the terms particularly Stihl have added to their chains in order to 'big them up'

 

Crazy seeing as they prob make the best chain anyway.... why confuse everyone??!! For instance the word 'rapid' features in a lot of their chains.... why?? Why not also have sizzlingly amazingly super duper fast...

 

http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/media/documents/chain-info.pdf

 

This gives profiles of all the main stihl and oregon chains and shows the difference in chisel and semi chisel.

[morten]

I spent a long time putting together a chain manual to unravel the terms particularly Stihl have added to their chains in order to 'big them up'

 

...

 

http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/media/documents/chain-info.pdf

 

This gives profiles of all the main stihl and oregon chains and shows the difference in chisel and semi chisel.

 

Fantastic piece of work. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else out!

[Rob D]

Fantastic piece of work. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else out!

 

 

Thanks Morten

[Big J]

Great resource that Rob - very interesting to cut through the branding babble to see what the chains actually do.

[Martyn Amos]

Here's some pics of full chisel and semi chisel (although the manufacturers have slightly confused the issue by adding their own micro chisel which I think is somewhere in between the 2).

 

I spent a long time putting together a chain manual to unravel the terms particularly Stihl have added to their chains in order to 'big them up'

 

Crazy seeing as they prob make the best chain anyway.... why confuse everyone??!! For instance the word 'rapid' features in a lot of their chains.... why?? Why not also have sizzlingly amazingly super duper fast...

 

http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/media/documents/chain-info.pdf

 

This gives profiles of all the main stihl and oregon chains and shows the difference in chisel and semi chisel.

 

well i used one of those sizzlingly amazingly super duper fast chains and they are good:lol:

[Megatron]

My take on the Stihl chains;

 

First of all two basic types; Rapid and Picco which determines the chasis height. Picco = low profile.

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Now 4 basic different versions which determine cutter shape;

chipper tooth = Standard (no longer made by Stihl)

full chisel = Super

semi-chisel = Micro

carbide tipped = Duro

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Now is it narrow kerf or not?

Narrow kerf = Mini (only applies to PMMC3)

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Low vibration?

Comfort = low vibration. Have a C stamped on cutters and arrow on cutters. For Comfort chains the cutting edges (side and top plates) and depth gauges are exactly the same as the standard vibration chains. The bottoms of the cutters and tie straps slope upwards at the rear. This clearance between the cutter and guide bar allows the cutter to tip back slightly and thus produce a shock absorbing effect. However, when there isn't a standard vibration chain available the C is omitted from the naming structure. (Still have C stamped on cutters and arrow on cutters).

i.e.

PS3, PD3, RMS, RD3 chains are in fact all low-vibe Comfort chains.

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Low kick-back?

3 = low kickback. Humbed tie straps reduce vibration and kickback potential/angle. Stihl have used the number 1 or 2 in the past to denote low kickback.

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The geometry of the cutters on RS and RSC chains are the same. However, RSK chains have a cutter geometry which promotes better chip flow and hence, cutting efficiency. K = Klassic.

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Round ground or square ground full chisel?

Square ground full chisel used for mostly for clean green softwoods, faster than conventional round ground. Square ground = L

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Full skip, half skip?

Full skip = F Two tie straps between every two cutting teeth. Better chip flow, chain speed and less sharpening maintenance than full complement.

Half skip = H Alternate between one and two tie straps between cutting teeth. Properties between full skip and full complement.

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Special application;

RDR = Rapid Duro Rescue --> Fire and rescue

RMH = Rapid Micro Harvester --> Harvester chain

RMHS = Rapid Micro Harvester Special --> Significantly reinforned RMH chain

RMS = Rapid Micro Special --> Carving chain

Edited December 14, 2011 by Megatron

[Megatron]

Oh, ripping chain. Some other time