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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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The 261 - always check the clutch drum, needle bearing and oiler arm. he bearing often goes, it can wear the drum and the wobble on this can take off the end of the oiler arm.

 

The rattle may also be a clutch with excessive wear or the piston may have a badly worn skirt causing piston slap.

 

As ADW says, the play you have in the rod and ends is quite normal and is just end float and is there to allow the rod to remain vertical to its shaft!

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Yeah it holds vacuum but not pressure, but I was wondering if it didn't hold vacuum, how you would check for a vacuum leak.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

As spud has said ifnits not holding vachume put oil or spray fluid on seals ect one place at a time til it holds vacuum obe that specific area is done and it holding then start to leak again that's the problem area spud is the guy to no about saws

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The 261 - always check the clutch drum, needle bearing and oiler arm. he bearing often goes, it can wear the drum and the wobble on this can take off the end of the oiler arm.

 

The rattle may also be a clutch with excessive wear or the piston may have a badly worn skirt causing piston slap.

 

As ADW says, the play you have in the rod and ends is quite normal and is just end float and is there to allow the rod to remain vertical to its shaft!

 

Thanks guys, though how much play before its too much?

Seems like excessive play in the top end.

 

I've had all of those issues with the clutch side of the saw, so keep a pretty good eye on that.

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Thanks guys, though how much play before its too much?

Seems like excessive play in the top end.

 

I've had all of those issues with the clutch side of the saw, so keep a pretty good eye on that.

 

It is the "up & down" movement that is critical, you should not be able to feel any play - a good way to test is moving the flywheel to and forth whilst watching the piston move.

 

I wouldn't worry about end float in the small end or big end and also on crankshafts like the MS200 running on big needle type rollers.

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Most of the ones I have had in have a sprung loaded limiter flange around the screw which needs to be pressed in to allow greater adjustments than the manufacturer has left you with. A splined driver should allow you to adjust the screw beyond set limits.......just make sure you know what you are doing!

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The earlier caps are alluminium and have to be pulled out with yet another special tool, a bit like a self tapping screw, all the caps are put on in such a way that you can only lean the mixture, not richen it,due to emissions as we all know and hate.

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