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spudulike

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Spud you beauty - looking forward to getting it back. Definitely think its worth it as it was given to me for free none running 6 months ago.

 

If there's anyone on here with chainsaw probs I highly recommend Spud (steve) :-)

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Well the 3120XP is up and running, it has been a bugger, having plugged the leaking hole in the crank for oiling the needle bearing - it has a hole running through to the crankcase with a one way valve that had gone...I found the seal on the clutch side was shot.

 

 

 

I replaced this seal and then found it was perfect on pressure but leaking on vacuum...at around 11.00pm last night:001_rolleyes: Grrrrrr

 

 

 

Managed to get the flywheel off and verify the other seal was leaking - got it replaced today and then had to wind in the carb idle screw three turns where the owner had been compensating for the air leaks - it had a slight seize so fitted a new piston and all seems good - opened up the slots in the muffler and it roars now:thumbup:

 

 

 

Stihl Contra now fitted with a new carb kit - will tach tomorrow:thumbup:

 

 

Photos! I would be interested in seeing a few photos of the contra, such as the starter, cylinder and muffler.

And be careful with the rpm, the saw will quite happily run at 10krpm, but the big end comes apart

 

 

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Photos! I would be interested in seeing a few photos of the contra, such as the starter, cylinder and muffler.

And be careful with the rpm, the saw will quite happily run at 10krpm, but the big end comes apart

 

 

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I am setting it to around 7000, it has a limiter that works off the air from the flywheel. weird thing but it works! Pics to follow

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I am setting it to around 7000, it has a limiter that works off the air from the flywheel. weird thing but it works! Pics to follow

 

 

Yes, the wind vane is an odd thing, mine locked off at around 8k rpm, the carburettor choke gets moved at higher, and can actually shut the saw off if you hold it on wot for too long

 

 

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Yes, the wind vane is an odd thing, mine locked off at around 8k rpm, the carburettor choke gets moved at higher, and can actually shut the saw off if you hold it on wot for too long

 

 

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That's the one, held it open with my thumb, tached it at 7000rpm before it stalled and then the recoil stopped recoiling - bloody old saws! They are really a labour of love for the owner - there is just so much labour intensive stuff that can go wrong and isn't easy to fix!

 

Everything takes sooooo long to repair:sneaky2::001_rolleyes::lol:

 

The 3120XP was sweet - a little bugger to get going but now all is good - will try it again cold but probably needs a few hours on it to settle the piston!

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The Stihl woodboss project is a failure on my part.It isn't the impulse line nor the fuel supply line. Im giving up. I have learnt a bit from the exercise, but could of achieved more with that time.:001_rolleyes:

 

Cracked inlet manifold was suggested and something in the carb as an alternative. If it ever gets sorted will post the correct answer.

Is this saw really worth it!

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That's the one, held it open with my thumb, tached it at 7000rpm before it stalled and then the recoil stopped recoiling - bloody old saws! They are really a labour of love for the owner - there is just so much labour intensive stuff that can go wrong and isn't easy to fix!

 

 

 

Everything takes sooooo long to repair:sneaky2::001_rolleyes::lol:

 

 

 

The 3120XP was sweet - a little bugger to get going but now all is good - will try it again cold but probably needs a few hours on it to settle the piston!

 

 

I'd rather fix stihl 1106 saws than 200t's, everything is big, simple and basic... Apart from the oil pump, that's as complex and fiddly as hell!

Points ignition is easy once you know how!

 

You shouldn't have to lock the vane to get 7k rpm though, sounds like you need to tension the spring, it should rev to 11k rpm locked off

 

 

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The Stihl woodboss project is a failure on my part.It isn't the impulse line nor the fuel supply line. Im giving up. I have learnt a bit from the exercise, but could of achieved more with that time.:001_rolleyes:

 

Cracked inlet manifold was suggested and something in the carb as an alternative. If it ever gets sorted will post the correct answer.

Is this saw really worth it!

 

Im still standing by the manifold being perished :lol: It does involve removing the carb and dropping the tank/handle to check which is a 10 minute job maybe 20 if your winging it a bit.

Bar and chain off

Remove air filter with a flat bladed screwdriver/scrench

Small flathead to remove black part of handle to remove carb linkage rod

Remove fuel pipe

10mm socket x 2 nuts to remove the carb-pull out circular insert and ring from end of manifold

Remove the triangle rubber buffer mount by carb t27 screws x3

Under Clutch drum lever out the 2 white round plugs (front 1 should have the silly chain guard thing on in case of chain breaking)

Then remove the 2 x t27 screws that live under them holding the tank in place.

Slacken/remove front end handle bolt/s

Should now be able to feed/push the inlet manifold thru the plastic handle along with impulse and remove handle to inspect the manifold properly aswell as the impulse. (impulse can be a pig to fit with handle in place unless you have forceps or similar)

Edited by wisecobandit
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