What's on your bench today?

[htb]

prob broken earthwire on switch easy to recrimp. take screw out of stop switch and remove lever before taking handle appart, or bits will be everywhere. split handle take photo of insides to aid reassembly. check wires to switch one will have prob broken. good luck

[spudulike]

My old mans 200t's off switch has stopped working, the choke half choke and ignition still work fine, but to turn it off he had to choke it (and it does this every time I've tested it 5 times). How simple is this to fix? Or if I start taking it apart will a million springs ping out and be distributed across the workshop floor?

 

It is generally the earth wire (yellow/green) that has fractured - sometimes, even when it looks OK, it isnt. Simple to replace but take care when you remove the handle cover.

 

The other possibility is the black wire may have come off its spade connector - just push it back on with the same side cover removed!

[spudulike]

Got a 3120XP on the bench, big airleak traced back to air leaking from the small hole under the clutch drum needle bearing:confused1:

 

Was baffled by this until I read that the saw has an oil gallery running down the centre of the crankshaft so the fuel air mix lubes the bearing. It has a built in one way valve that has obviously failed. There is no way this can be replaced and it had caused a little damage to the piston via a very mild seize.

 

I have plugged the hole as fitting a new crankshaft would have been damn expensive and the seal appears unavailable to order. I now have a new set of seals on order (same as the 395XP) so should be up and running again with a new piston as well:thumbup:

[Goaty]

Try the metering arm - bend it upwards 0.5mm and try again:thumbup:

 

This is obviously an older saw as its made in WEST Germany.

I tried this finally today. Have prettymuch disassembled the saw, cleaned and rebuilt it. The top plate above the diaphagm was packed underneath with fine sawdust. I have taken off and visually checked the carb boot and pipe that goes to the cylinder at the side off it.I took out the fuel tank line and pressurised the fuel tank line with a syringe, its fine. It still wouldn't go, however when I take the air filter off and put my thumb over the air intake It runs for about 2 seconds. But without the thumb trick the carb chamber doesn't get any moisture.

 

Thanks for help so far everyone.

[peatff]

With the intake blocked it will pull fuel through under pure vacuum so if it stops again it is obviously a fuel problem. There is air getting in somewhere or the fuel is not pumping through. Have you replaced any carb parts or just visually checked them ?

[Goaty]

Just visual, wish I'd never got involved! When I saw the packed dust in the top of the diaphagm I assumed it wedged it shut. Hoped that was it. then bent the metering arm .5mm, I hope!! then tested fuel supply hose. I assume contenders now are

carb boot leak.

pipe from cylinder to carb.

Or carb internals.

I have never worked to this capacity on a stihl before and have spent 4 hours on it. It was encased everywhere in crud. Its amazing it hasn't smouldered by now.

[spudulike]

Just visual, wish I'd never got involved! When I saw the packed dust in the top of the diaphagm I assumed it wedged it shut. Hoped that was it. then bent the metering arm .5mm, I hope!! then tested fuel supply hose. I assume contenders now are

carb boot leak.

pipe from cylinder to carb.

Or carb internals.

I have never worked to this capacity on a stihl before and have spent 4 hours on it. It was encased everywhere in crud. Its amazing it hasn't smouldered by now.

 

The carb was the obvious one but if no joy, you will need to remove and test the fuel line and impulse line - if either of these are holed, it will make the saw a pig to start - if you don't have a vacuum gauge - block one end with a suitable wood nail and suck on the other or immerse in water and blow:blushing:

 

If it isn't that - perhaps the inlet manifold has cracked!

 

4 hours ......

[Goaty]

Hmmm 4 hrs. Doing someone else's saw. When I send mine to you. It is stupidity. Initially I thought it would be a simple fix. I'm a believer in doing what you can DIY, within your limits but delegate to the skilled what they are skilled at. It's more effective.

 

Live and learn.

Thanks again.

 

To be continued......... Probably as I'm still an obstinate mug.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

[alant]

Mitox hedge trimmer head. Bought it yesterday went to grease the nipples one broke off. Hadn't even used the dam thing

[wisecobandit]

Got a 3120XP on the bench, big airleak traced back to air leaking from the small hole under the clutch drum needle bearing:confused1:

 

Was baffled by this until I read that the saw has an oil gallery running down the centre of the crankshaft so the fuel air mix lubes the bearing. It has a built in one way valve that has obviously failed. There is no way this can be replaced and it had caused a little damage to the piston via a very mild seize.

 

I have plugged the hole as fitting a new crankshaft would have been damn expensive and the seal appears unavailable to order. I now have a new set of seals on order (same as the 395XP) so should be up and running again with a new piston as well:thumbup:

That's interesting. Never heard of that either.

They charge well for those seals to. Simply bearings don't list a narrow enough one and the cheapest place ive found £8 a pair. Quite a common seal on the 2 +3 series Husqvarna larger saws.