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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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Originally Posted by Owen Green View Post

I think you have to split it but not at the tank, pull the engine out the side and the carb comes with it, there's a hidden bolt down by the exhaust somewhere and possibly another elsewhere.. Been a while since I did it! The handle will have to come off though. I'm sure spud or one of the big guys will point you in the right direction..!

 

spudulike[/b];930395]Did one of these once - infuriating design, I think you have to remove the carb nuts under the small carb cover and then split the cases as Owen said - not the crankcases but split the two rear covers and yes, I think there was a hidden nut above the cylinder but don't hold me to it. Just go careful and don't be tempted to use a big screw driver - just make sure all the screws are out before separating the cases.

 

Think the German engineers were taking the piss with this one:blushing::001_rolleyes::lol:

 

The German engineers definitely didn't want this opened on a whim - yep both right spud and owen, thank you - the sneaky ambush bolt under the cylinder tied up the troops for most of the afternoon. Thanks again.

 

mikerecike-albums-mikespics-picture6674-20130726-172459.jpg

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First one of the day, Husky 235 that wont run quite right and sometimes wont start at all.

 

Must tell owner that the air filter needs cleaning now and then.

 

Pretty common getting saws in with air filters that look like digestive biscuits:001_rolleyes: it is amazing the number of people that want their saws tuned and ported but their air filters come in clogged up with chip:lol::lol:

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Does anyone know if the 070/090 cylinder and piston kits fit the contra range? I have a lightning with a damaged exhaust port and wondered if I could just buy a new pot n piston, or would I need to repair the port

 

 

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Pretty common getting saws in with air filters that look like digestive biscuits

 

Thats the worst ive seen in a long while, Cut off saws are the best, take off the cover and a brick in dust form drops out

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Hello you clever bunch, a couple of questions if I may...

 

1. Did a bit of logging with my farm boss the other day, the saw is a few years old and only had occasional (every month or two) but regular use; maybe 3 or 4 chains over 5 years, and due another! I know petrol can go stale so only make up a gallon at a time and its usually gone in a month or two, should be ok? Anyway, the other day it struggled to rev well and wasn't keen on cold starting- Revs dipping, cutting out when off the throttle, seemed ok if a little more guttless than normal in bigger wood. The juice is probably 2-3 months old, could this be the problem, or the baking hot weather, or should I look for other problems?

(I know fresh juice would be a good idea, but I have nowhere to get rid of 4 litres of 2stroke. Any ideas?)

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Q2. I'm going to attempt a repair favour on a mates old 200t. It went in to a stihl dealer for a carb clean and tune, the first day of use the crank shaft snapped!? He has a spares saw and wonders if I could use the shaft out of that, I didn't like to say. He's already got a new seal kit as recommended by the dealer. So, what should I know, any tips, is other damage likely, anything to clean/replace while its in bits? I've done a lot of repairs to 200t's over the years but never gone into their guts before, this is outside my comfort zone but I like a challenge, Please help!

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Q2. I'm going to attempt a repair favour on a mates old 200t. It went in to a stihl dealer for a carb clean and tune, the first day of use the crank shaft snapped!? He has a spares saw and wonders if I could use the shaft out of that, I didn't like to say. He's already got a new seal kit as recommended by the dealer. So, what should I know, any tips, is other damage likely, anything to clean/replace while its in bits? I've done a lot of repairs to 200t's over the years but never gone into their guts before, this is outside my comfort zone but I like a challenge, Please help!

 

One tip, take out the rubber part the oil pump pushes in to when splitting the crankcases, there is a bolt most miss when splitting the cases.

 

Oh, two tips:lol:The bearings only go on ONE way, the plastic part goes to the outside!

 

Everything else is simple:blushing:

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Hello you clever bunch, a couple of questions if I may...

 

1. Did a bit of logging with my farm boss the other day, the saw is a few years old and only had occasional (every month or two) but regular use; maybe 3 or 4 chains over 5 years, and due another! I know petrol can go stale so only make up a gallon at a time and its usually gone in a month or two, should be ok? Anyway, the other day it struggled to rev well and wasn't keen on cold starting- Revs dipping, cutting out when off the throttle, seemed ok if a little more guttless than normal in bigger wood. The juice is probably 2-3 months old, could this be the problem, or the baking hot weather, or should I look for other problems?

(I know fresh juice would be a good idea, but I have nowhere to get rid of 4 litres of 2stroke. Any ideas?)

 

Take the exhaust off and check the piston front through the exhaust port to make sure the saw hasn't seized. I would advise mixing smaller volumes of fuel or using Aspen - can't believe I got in before Garden kit:lol:

 

Other than that, it sounds like your fuel pipes, filters, tank vent and carb may need an overhaul if it still runs badly with new fuel and you have checked the piston!

 

Good luck

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mikerecike-albums-mikespics-picture6676-20130727-173414.jpg

 

Working my way through the 020AVP Super. Pressure and vac test fine after US cleaning carb. I think fuel delivery - leaning and dying was down to the carb fuel filter gauze - varnished over. Cleaned in carb cleaner and replaced - not back together yet so can't tell if that's fixed it.

 

Am wondering - anybody know where you can buy just those little gauze filters?

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