What's on your bench today?

[Eddy_t]

The 236 is a clam type crank case, it will need to be cleaned and re-sealed with a liquid gasket compound otherwise you will get bad airleaks.

 

Not sure how you managed to get that compression but 210 will not stop it idleing, my 357XP runs 200psi with no issues on the idle and some old school domed piston saws can be 250psi and run fine.

 

Sounds like a possible airleak or carb issue.

 

Not sure of the standard carb settings on these machines but if they are over standard settings by 1/2 a turn or more - expect an air leak.

 

The carb was turned up that much before it was pulled apart, as for compression, I don't have any liquid gasket sealant, so I reasoned if I did it up tighter I wouldn't have to worry, it came away cleanly from the crank case, so I might have squashed it a little bit.

I'm surprised the saw is still alive with the abuse it has had, felling seasoned dead oaks to clear felling Corsican pines on Cannock chase, to rough sawing fence posts, plenty of abuse for something labelled as homeowner/occasional use

 

 

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[Rich2484]

Really enjoy this thread… so on my workbench is my 200T, it got a blocked oil tank vent and sucked in the crank case gasket. So I stripped it down, took the opportunity to give it some TLC, inside it’s in pretty good nick. But while it’s in bits I thought I’d give it new crank seals, piston rings, AV’s etc. I’ve never taken one of these apart before, but with the manual and the exploded spares diagrams there was nothing too tricky.

 

The only hard part seems to be getting the spare parts, I went to a local place that told me over the phone, when I checked, that they kept loads of 200T spares, though when I got there they had none of the parts, not even a cylinder gasket etc. So I ordered my list of parts from a well known online place, package turned up, some parts missing… after contacting them, they sent nearly all the remaining parts, grrr.

 

With enough essential parts to rebuild the saw (in time for a looming job) I realised that I’d been sent the wrong piston rings, or so I think, though not until the saw was nearly fully reassembled.

 

MS200T p-rings Stihl p/n: 1114 034 3001 Ø40x1.5mm, ones that I’d been sent came in a box that says 1114 034 3000 Ø38.5x1.5mm, only 1 out… they fitted ok, but I thought they looked a little small. Did a compression test and can only get 90-100psi, which doesn’t hold.

 

So, probably a rhetorical question, but these rings are no good? –I don’t have a lot of saw rebuild experience hence the post.

 

Next on the bench – Husky 44, my old man’s saw, that managed to fill in for the 200T – on the ‘looming job’. –cracking little saw, must be 25+ years old too, but its handle didn’t quite make it to the end of the job, ally fatigue. –any one got a spare for sale?

 

Cheers, folks.

 

Wrong rings. The standard piston on a 200t is 40mm. Order a meteor piston. Won't get better IMO.

 

STIHL 020T MS200T PISTON ASSEMBLY 40MM MADE IN ITALY BY METEOR PC2055

[agg221]

as for compression, I don't have any liquid gasket sealant, so I reasoned if I did it up tighter I wouldn't have to worry

 

Sadly it doesn't quite work like that.

 

You can't get enough compressive force in the spaces between the bolts to hold a seal and the surfaces are never quite good enough - hence the sealant. A quick trip to Halfords or similar may be in order before your next reassembly job.

 

If the surfaces are really bad, or you just want to go really old school, Permaflex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound is the stuff. Almost indestructible and will hold even the worst of leaks. Not the easiest stuff to get hold of but can be had for £2.50 a bottle from a very helpful UK supplier who will post it. If you do go this route, and ever need to get it apart again, remember it dissolves in meths which is much easier than trying to break the seal.

 

Alec

[afro reductions]

Ok then as per my first part of post. Remove the pull start, at the bottom of the buffer, against body of saw there is a piece of metal plate, this has flat parts on each side of it. This is a 19mm spanner or adjustable spanner on it. Looks like a washer with flat sides ground off it. It may take some doing if its been on there a long time. If the buffer is knackerd remove all the rubber bit and you should see it. For the handle side stihl screw in end of handle, looking at it form the side sw upright, there is another flat part the other side of handle for 19mm spanner.

 

Thanks for all the replies chaps, I think im good to go in the morrow to continue my botch job ill post some pictures of the questionable washers ive used to repair another av mount on the saw ...

 

Big thanks to Rich and Spud i am becoming an arb talk addict hopefully Ill be able to contribute something uself in the future ....

 

Oh yeah im in Brighton BTW Rich so Dover may be a bit far but tanks for the offer and ill let you know how i get on.

[mikerecike]

If the surfaces are really bad, or you just want to go really old school, Permaflex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound is the stuff. Almost indestructible and will hold even the worst of leaks. Not the easiest stuff to get hold of but can be had for £2.50 a bottle from a very helpful UK supplier who will post it. If you do go this route, and ever need to get it apart again, remember it dissolves in meths which is much easier than trying to break the seal.

 

Alec

 

who's the supplier? please

[agg221]

who's the supplier? please

 

Real Steel in Uxbridge - 01895 440505. Put it in the post the same day, arrived next day. £6.08 inc. 1st class postage. It's also handy for gumming up things that wobble a bit and shouldn't, but one day you might need to get apart and is the recommended method for holding the rod on the wind vane rev limiter on the 070 and 090 in place, and coincidentally also now stops my choke rod top end connector from shifting slightly on the shaft.

 

It's quite gloopy - if you need to thin it a bit, use meths.

 

Alec

[mikerecike]

Real Steel in Uxbridge - 01895 440505. Put it in the post the same day, arrived next day. £6.08 inc. 1st class postage. It's also handy for gumming up things that wobble a bit and shouldn't, but one day you might need to get apart and is the recommended method for holding the rod on the wind vane rev limiter on the 070 and 090 in place, and coincidentally also now stops my choke rod top end connector from shifting slightly on the shaft.

 

It's quite gloopy - if you need to thin it a bit, use meths.

 

Alec

 

cheers alec

[spudulike]

Got a bit of a project on, purchased a "Red Eye" 066 Stihl with a dodgy coil, fitted a standard one off a MS650 but the timing is picked up some 30 deg later on the new coil so all I got was some farty sounding backfires from a very retarded ignition timing.

 

The parts are obsolete so managed to get it running badly by rough setting the flywheel with no key in place and a strobe timing light - this managed to show me where the saw was actually sparking.

 

I am now going to work out with the aid of a degree wheel, what ignition advance the MS650 is running at and then will attempt to replicate the advance on the 066.

 

I plan to knife edge the crank key and then line the flywheel up and bolt it down hard so the key actually forms a new "V" slot and then clean and smooth with rifler files.

 

Very long winded but reckon it will be successful in the end- just hope the saws ignition is close enough as getting it too retarded and it won't cut for...brown stuff and too advanced and it will melt the piston!

 

I will finally mark the flywheel and work out what advance it is running at idle and flat out to make sure we are around the 16 deg advance at idle and around 30 degs flat out.

 

In a way it is nice to be doing something a little bit different!

 

Well the first attempt failed - got the degree wheel on, found TDC and then used a piston stop to hold the crank at 23 deg advance, sharpened the key and drove on the flywheel.....damn, Stihl flywheels have a steel central boss - it flattened my nice sharp key so am now filing in a new keyway and it should give some sort of registration crank to flywheel and will test with the degree wheel before attempting an arm wrenching test pull:blushing:

[GardenKit]

Well the first attempt failed - got the degree wheel on, found TDC and then used a piston stop to hold the crank at 23 deg advance, sharpened the key and drove on the flywheel.....damn, Stihl flywheels have a steel central boss - it flattened my nice sharp key so am now filing in a new keyway and it should give some sort of registration crank to flywheel and will test with the degree wheel before attempting an arm wrenching test pull:blushing:

Steel central boss? mmmmm.......bash it on and weld it:laugh1:

[Tree Man Tom]

Shed was to cold so came inside and worked, note the apple pies and tea :-)

 

New ignition, plug and clutch on a mates husky 61

 

Local chainsaw shop wanted £400+ to fix it?

 

I got all the parts for £32, he chucked me £20 for my time and he'll by me a couple pints tonight. :-)