What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

Second is a saw I could do with being identified please.

 

Can't remember how it ended up there but has been under the bench for ages. I do remember replacing the fuel lines as they were all shot. It will fire up and run for a bit before dying.

 

It has no markings on it as to what saw it is. Would be nice to get it going again. Don't even know who's it is.

[Adamam]

Obviously something for the Australian market...

 

[amfell]

Second is a saw I could do with being identified please.

 

Can't remember how it ended up there but has been under the bench for ages. I do remember replacing the fuel lines as they were all shot. It will fire up and run for a bit before dying.

 

It has no markings on it as to what saw it is. Would be nice to get it going again. Don't even know who's it is.

 

 

 

its a Solo 610

made in Germany

[Rich2484]

Thanks amfell.

 

Will look into what I can do with it.

 

Strange one. Anyone know much about it. No chain break and has a switch on the chain cover. But think this is for the oiler control. There certainly a strange saw. Bloody heavy aswell. Wouldn't want to spend long up a tree with it that's for sure.

[amfell]

I have only ever tached one saw up without an airfilter being present and that was a slight mistake - five MS200Ts and only two air filters!

 

It revved briefly up to 15k so 1k above what I had set it to earlier!

 

Deductions - leaving the air filter off will increase the airflow and make the saw run lean.

 

I reckon the saw is a slow revving beast and that you should just aim for around 12,000rpm, chances are that the carb should be set to one turn on each screw but check for four stroking at the top end to be sure.

 

Is it possible to drill holes so adjustment is possible - seems pretty strange not to have any form of access to mixture adjustment???

 

I guess if you must, tune the saw without the filter so it fourstrokes normally and then turn it slightly lean for when the filter and cover are replaced - as long as it revvs out and fourstrokes with the cover on, all should be good!

 

if you start drilling holes in the carb casing it will let unfiltered air around the carb as the air filter seals on the lip of the aluminium carb casing leading to ingestion of dust with the air/fuel mix and worn cylinder and seizure,

the greatest culprit of dust ingestion "the builders disc cutter "

 

years ago there were a few saws that had no access to the mixture screws without removing the air filter cover dolmar 101 / poulan 25 come to mind mainly

 

as spud says tweak carb screws a little, put filter back on & check

[GardenKit]

The last job today was an MS180 which would not start. The owner had unintentionally broken the throttle shaft because he had forced the choke down without squeezing the throttle, a common fault.

 

Got it running, so he wanted a full service, nothing wrong with it, he said. But it would not oil the chain.

 

So it was a case of pulling the pump out to clean out the little plug of sawdust blocking the input hole. reassembled and it was fine.

 

To get the pump out you first need to pry the front AV from the frame and lever the handle to one side and wedge it there. A 19mm socket wedges it nicely.

 

Then remove the pipe from the pump cavity and screw a long 5mm bolt into the pump. Using a vice grip on the bolt. pull the pump from the cavity, clean it and reinsert it ensuring the discharge hole lines up with the port. Simples.

 

 

 

 

[mikerecike]

if you start drilling holes in the carb casing it will let unfiltered air around the carb as the air filter seals on the lip of the aluminium carb casing leading to ingestion of dust with the air/fuel mix and worn cylinder and seizure,

the greatest culprit of dust ingestion "the builders disc cutter "

 

years ago there were a few saws that had no access to the mixture screws without removing the air filter cover dolmar 101 / poulan 25 come to mind mainly

 

as spud says tweak carb screws a little, put filter back on & check

 

Cheers SPUD and AMFELL - solid advice - any thoughts on grinding a little off the middle of the inside of the diaphragm cover to stop ithpressing on the metering diaphragm and unseating the needle?

 

Mike

[mikerecike]

The last job today was an MS180 which would not start. The owner had unintentionally broken the throttle shaft because he had forced the choke down without squeezing the throttle, a common fault.

 

Got it running, so he wanted a full service, nothing wrong with it, he said. But it would not oil the chain.

 

So it was a case of pulling the pump out to clean out the little plug of sawdust blocking the input hole. reassembled and it was fine.

 

To get the pump out you first need to pry the front AV from the frame and lever the handle to one side and wedge it there. A 19mm socket wedges it nicely.

 

Then remove the pipe from the pump cavity and screw a long 5mm bolt into the pump. Using a vice grip on the bolt. pull the pump from the cavity, clean it and reinsert it ensuring the discharge hole lines up with the port. Simples.

 

[ATTACH]109630[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]109631[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]109632[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]109633[/ATTACH]

 

Never done this but a great explanation - thanks for the training!

[GardenKit]

Cheers SPUD and AMFELL - solid advice - any thoughts on grinding a little off the middle of the inside of the diaphragm cover to stop ithpressing on the metering diaphragm and unseating the needle?

 

Mike

I can't help thinking that you have the wrong diaphragms for the carb, or the wrong needle or arm.

 

A thought has just occurred to me though. This may not be the case here, but I have come across some old carbs (I can't remember which) where the metering diaphragm centre peg is grooved an sits into a little fork on the lever (like the needle does)

If this is the case here it could explain the diaphragm being too high if not assembled properly?.

[spudulike]

I can't help thinking that you have the wrong diaphragms for the carb, or the wrong needle or arm.

 

A thought has just occurred to me though. This may not be the case here, but I have come across some old carbs (I can't remember which) where the metering diaphragm centre peg is grooved an sits into a little fork on the lever (like the needle does)

If this is the case here it could explain the diaphragm being too high if not assembled properly?.

 

Good point Barrie - got caught out in the early days with this one:blushing: I think they are old Walbro carbs - possibly off something like a 266 or old Jonsered!

 

The diaphragm shouldn't need grinding down if the correct part is fitted but if you CANT get the correct part then I know what I would do....grind the rivet bit by bit until it works OK:thumbup:

 

Just make sure at full bore, the saws revs dont soar as the fuel in the diaphragm bowl is depleted - if they do, grind off some more so there is extra fuel in this part of the carb!