What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

There you go....part number 1129 440 4000. Available from any good Stihl dealer at £1.35 plus vat

[ATTACH]126978[/ATTACH]

 

Didn't realise that they were that cheap, will have to get a couple in but may need a face to face to fit it correctly

 

Usually repair them because I can and out of convenience!

[Dan Curtis]

It's worse up close

 

The cylinder has shed a fair bit of crap and should cool a bit better and got most of the crap off the piston. Should run a little cleaner once ported!

 

Can't wait:thumbup:

[spudulike]

Got the MS200T ported - when you compare the unported and ported cylinders (look at the distance between the transfer and exhaust port side) I am actually taking off a fair bit of metal.

 

I have also done the muffler mod and a couple of other tweaks that should make a bit of difference - should be an interesting one when finished!

[wisecobandit]

Having just seen a post about an ms170 elsewhere on the forum jogged my mind that ive got to have a quick look at one at some stage so throw some ideas at me Spud/Rich/Etc...

Ms170 runs fine without issue and starts fine 1st pull once warm but the cold start is pants and can take 15/20 pulls using the correct procedure. Once you get the initial fire it starts right up. Its like you need to pull fuel from the tank and up the line and prime the carb taking so many pulls before it will start.

By all accounts plug colour etc is fine so doubting it being an air leak etc and its recently had a new carb. Ive only been told over the phone so not got the saw yet.

Needle height? its an inbuilt impulse in the manifold like the 357 so no impulse line.

[High Scale]

Spud, are you just making the exhaust port wider?

 

Is there any other work you do to the cylinder?

 

Cheers!

[wyk]

I just repaired a Husqvarna 235R Strimmer, and went over the motor front to back. I wanna say Kudos to Husqvarna for making every freaking bolt the same size. I bet it's also a 4mm to remove the jug(but that wasn't necessary today). The internal muffler baffle was damaged(cracked in half nearly), so I removed it and opened up the muffler a bit and retuned. It seems to like it a lot. Replaced the fuel line, but the carb internals and the engine internals looked very fresh. Is there anything I need to check with the drive train since she's been sitting for a couple years?

[Rich2484]

Having just seen a post about an ms170 elsewhere on the forum jogged my mind that ive got to have a quick look at one at some stage so throw some ideas at me Spud/Rich/Etc...

Ms170 runs fine without issue and starts fine 1st pull once warm but the cold start is pants and can take 15/20 pulls using the correct procedure. Once you get the initial fire it starts right up. Its like you need to pull fuel from the tank and up the line and prime the carb taking so many pulls before it will start.

By all accounts plug colour etc is fine so doubting it being an air leak etc and its recently had a new carb. Ive only been told over the phone so not got the saw yet.

Needle height? its an inbuilt impulse in the manifold like the 357 so no impulse line.

 

I'm tired so its a quick one from me.

 

I dought needle height as its a new carb, but worth a look I suppose.

 

Fuel lines or tank vent would be my port of call, not letting pressure build in the tank, so taking its time to get fuel up.

 

That's about as far as my brain will let me go tonight. Sorry.

[GardenKit]

Having just seen a post about an ms170 elsewhere on the forum jogged my mind that ive got to have a quick look at one at some stage so throw some ideas at me Spud/Rich/Etc...

Ms170 runs fine without issue and starts fine 1st pull once warm but the cold start is pants and can take 15/20 pulls using the correct procedure. Once you get the initial fire it starts right up. Its like you need to pull fuel from the tank and up the line and prime the carb taking so many pulls before it will start.

By all accounts plug colour etc is fine so doubting it being an air leak etc and its recently had a new carb. Ive only been told over the phone so not got the saw yet.

Needle height? its an inbuilt impulse in the manifold like the 357 so no impulse line.

It appears, as you suspect, that the fuel is not getting up to the carb quick enough.

 

I dont think it will be the needle height as it runs well once started. More likely to be loss of impulse, This could be from a poor seal between the carb and manifold, a damaged or stretched pump diaphragm, or a poor seal of the pump gasket. ( the little raised lines on the pump cover create the seal against the gasket, and the sometimes erode away.)

 

The fuel pick up hose could be porous, but that would most likely effect the running too.

[spudulike]

Having just seen a post about an ms170 elsewhere on the forum jogged my mind that ive got to have a quick look at one at some stage so throw some ideas at me Spud/Rich/Etc...

Ms170 runs fine without issue and starts fine 1st pull once warm but the cold start is pants and can take 15/20 pulls using the correct procedure. Once you get the initial fire it starts right up. Its like you need to pull fuel from the tank and up the line and prime the carb taking so many pulls before it will start.

By all accounts plug colour etc is fine so doubting it being an air leak etc and its recently had a new carb. Ive only been told over the phone so not got the saw yet.

Needle height? its an inbuilt impulse in the manifold like the 357 so no impulse line.

 

If it isn't starting well from cold it could be a number of things but would check that the choke is shutting off fully whan it is engaged and would also check the fast idle position on the choke lever is in fact giving a decent fast idle - easy to test by starting in this position and checking the saw spins up with revs a fair bit higher than normal idle.

 

I am guesing the saw has a single screw adjustment which gives little to adjust but if it is running OK when warm then is probably OK.

[spudulike]

Spud, are you just making the exhaust port wider?

 

Is there any other work you do to the cylinder?

 

Cheers!

 

On the cylinder I widen the exhaust port, the inlet port doesn't leave much room for any work due to the position of the ring ends - widen it at your peril!

 

The easiest tune up on these saws is to mod the muffler, simpler than trying to work out how wide you can go!

 

On this latest one I have done a bit more than usual and will see what it does once back together.