What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

Bugger me, I was mooching in his shop on ebay just yesterday hoping he'd have what I needed and all he had on for the 044 was a few bits and pieces.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that one mate!

 

BTW I'm no stranger to splitting crankcases and have the Stihl ZS tool for it, so no worries on that score.

 

Cheers

 

Yeah it's a new listing so has only just gone on.

 

Could get creative like spud says. Depends if you think flaring around is worth it or not. IMO for the price may aswell buy new, it would cost me personally more to try and plate it up than to buy another section. But that's just me.

 

Could plate it up and buy the other half and have the plated side as a back up piece, seeing as parts for these saws are mostly obsolete.

[spudulike]

Whats on my bench - oil....lots of oil:001_rolleyes:

 

Got an MS200 in for porting and a full rebuild, got a bit of an oil leak. I disconnected the pick up pipe where it joins the pump and connected a pop of carb tester and gave it a few pumps......oil pissed out of the filler cap.

 

Tried various new O rings and it was still loose so fitted a new cap and tried it again......more oil all over the bench - the tank vent was pissing out oil - knocked it out, blasted it with carb cleaner and compressor, tested it and now it only flows one way (inwards), fitted an O ring as it was missing and all is now good - holds pressure so won't leak again:thumbup:

[Dan Forsh]

Thanks for the additional input fellas.

 

I know what spud means on the case halves. I remember it was always 'replace as a matching pair'. I tend to do a lot of cut-off saws and things like the TS400 and TS410 you can buy each half separately and they have a separate part nos. Looking at the 044 IPL it only give a single part no. for the complete crankcase so spud may be right.

 

Having said that, I've found someone selling a complete case including crankshaft and oiler for 45 quid, so I might just go with that. Just priced the bearings and oil seals up and that was 40 quid alone. Don't know about you, but I'm never sure how the bearings are going to be after being pulled out of the case once and it seems a bit daft to go to the trouble of splitting a case and not changing them.

 

So I could save myself some work and rebuild the saw on the complete crank and save my good bits as spares for later.

 

I'm not a great metal basher, so whilst I appreciate spud's suggestion of a repair, I'm not sure I'm up to the task.

[Rich2484]

My bench is going to look like Barrie's soon.

 

Havnt checked the answer phone all weekend. Thought I may as well do it tonight.

 

Three ride on mowers to service. Another rotovator coming in aswell. Oh and two Hayter mowers to look at. It's going to get busy that's for sure.

 

Luckily I can do the ride ons on site. So no need to transport anything around exept for blades for balance and sharpen. Suits me ok.

[Chrisy B]

The muffler mod I did was fairly minor so will tach it to around 500rmp off max revs. The saw has been seized and now has a new piston so it will be tuned pretty fat on the top end to protect the piston and leaned out after a few months running.

 

In answer to your question - this richening up a saw after modifying is in fact rowlocks, I have yet to richen a saw up after any tuning....fact.

 

What happens is that when you port/muffler mod, you INCREASE the flow through the carb and engine. This increase in flow INCREASES the venturi effect through the carb, this has the effect of pulling up more fuel from the metering section of the carb and therefore the carb actually needs leaning down - most saws I port are happily running on 3/4 turn and the plug colour is a dark to mid tan colour.

 

In reality, you tune the modified saw to near maximum revs and listen for fourstroking (more obvious on muffler moded saws) and use this plus the plug colour to find out where the carb setting should be.

 

If you have a set tuning regiem and know where a saw should be then it is pretty easy to dial in the correct revs to ensure correct running.

 

As Eddy says - do a couple of big cuts then do a plug chop - take it out directly after finishing the cut an look at the colour - tan colour is good! Reckon you are running rich if it is smoking!

 

Modified saws can sound a bit rich and fat when cold - it changes after the saws are hot and they rev out fine.

 

Thanks for explaining that, will have another play after checking the plug and see how I get on. Must admit I didn't adjust it straight after doing the mod and definitely seemed more lively and pokey than after fattening up the mix but got worried about scorching the p&c.

 

Thanks again

[Dan Forsh]

Manage to call the place offering the 044 crankcase complete with crankshaft and oiler installed this morning. Web site price was £45 + £5 delivery, agreed over the phone on £40 delivered, so that should save me a bit of time on the rebuild.

 

One thing I neglected to ask was whether it was a 10 or 12 mm gudgeon pin version, so now I'll have to wait until it arrives before I can order a piston:001_unsure:

 

I doubt it is the 10 mm version, but does anyone know if there would be any issues using my existing cylinder (assuming it cleans up) on it? I seem to think I once read that one will fit the other, but not vice versa, I assume due to a different stroke length?

 

Thanks again,

 

Dan

[csservices]

Could be worn drum. Could just be a big build up of crud. Take the cover off and have a good look. Clean it up and inspect the areas for wear. Then get some pics up for us to see.

 

Cheers GTR been busy last few days will have a look and post pics if need be, was a good day as my stihl 028 snapped the top av mount so left me with no working saws at mo

[wisecobandit]

Bugger me, I was mooching in his shop on ebay just yesterday hoping he'd have what I needed and all he had on for the 044 was a few bits and pieces.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that one mate!

 

BTW I'm no stranger to splitting crankcases and have the Stihl ZS tool for it, so no worries on that score.

 

Cheers

Just beware, depends if you have an early or later model 044 (early ones had a smaller small end/piston/wrist pin. The crankcases are different between the 2. The later one runs a bigger crank which will just about rub the inside of an early crankcase so you need to just help give it a little clearance with a dremel.

[wisecobandit]

Manage to call the place offering the 044 crankcase complete with crankshaft and oiler installed this morning. Web site price was £45 + £5 delivery, agreed over the phone on £40 delivered, so that should save me a bit of time on the rebuild.

 

One thing I neglected to ask was whether it was a 10 or 12 mm gudgeon pin version, so now I'll have to wait until it arrives before I can order a piston:001_unsure:

 

I doubt it is the 10 mm version, but does anyone know if there would be any issues using my existing cylinder (assuming it cleans up) on it? I seem to think I once read that one will fit the other, but not vice versa, I assume due to a different stroke length?

 

Thanks again,

 

Dan

 

The piston ring lands are in slightly different places is the difference so will catch on the ports.

Has yours got a red or black run/kill/choke switch as a rule the red ones are 10mm and black are 12mm. If you look at your serial number if its before x29382283 its 10mm or later 12mm.

The strokes are exactly the same but cranks are actually different as the 12mm is much heavier so not as snappy throttle response.

[spudulike]

Forgot to mention - got the ported 357XP ready for a lucky Arbtalkers father and when I fired it up, instead of it being silky smooth as they normally are, there was just a bit too much vibration for my likeing.

 

Checked all the AV nounts, still not too good, noticed that when I grabbed it off the deck by the top handle it clonked a little:confused1:

 

Got it back on the bench and pushed and prodded the engine around on the static rear handle and then noticed someone had replaced one of the lower underside bolts on the top main handle with an over-long one that was protruding through the lower handle and touching the lower crankcase causing bad vibes.

 

Cut the bolt down and refitted - silky smooth AV now, just as you would expect.

 

The moral of this is to be damn careful if you fit an incorrect screw or bolt, it is easy to cause issues if you do - had one hit the flywheel on a 066 once - couldn't understand how it had suddenly locked up when the top cover went on:001_rolleyes: