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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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Hi, yeah the L and H settings I didn't confuse. Another thing I've noticed is I have to use the choke on the saw more than often. Even after a minute of not using it the choke needs to be used.

The spark plug is a nice browny colour. I'll take out the carb tonight and investigate!

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On my bench today was a sealey 3 tonne trolley jack that doesnt do that. Saw Rich had one on his magnetic bench.

Anyways I stripped it and cleaned it and rebuilt it, no improvement! I can get O rings from an excellent place locally called Direct Gaskets. The steel type seals from another place, but where would I go for the Nylon type o ring rim enclosure type seal off the piston? Anybody any pointers for hydraulic jacks, Ive a few that need tickling up.

I have stripped and rebuilt hydraulic rams sucessfully in the past.

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Goaty on the one I had there was a small cylinder just in front of the ram that pumps it up. I found the jack would not go up and stay up. When pumped it would rise a few inches then drop again. If this is the can look for the small cylinder. Has one way valves in it. They are a ball bearing with a spring and a small plastic x shape cover. If you prize the plastic cover out carefully the spring may have moved. All I done was relocate the spring and the jack works a treat. Worth trying the valves with an air line to make sure they are one way.

 

Oh and the magnetic bench is very strong as that is a five ton trolley jack on it.

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Rich, thanks. Mine went up and crept down, had the guts out the bottom of the jack, will have another go, sometime. It will be one of those simple fixes were the parts are inexpensive, but the official parts make a new jack more cost attractive.

My 20 tonne bottle jack lifts very little and creep down. Will post any successes.

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On my bench today was a sealey 3 tonne trolley jack that doesnt do that. Saw Rich had one on his magnetic bench.

Anyways I stripped it and cleaned it and rebuilt it, no improvement! I can get O rings from an excellent place locally called Direct Gaskets. The steel type seals from another place, but where would I go for the Nylon type o ring rim enclosure type seal off the piston? Anybody any pointers for hydraulic jacks, Ive a few that need tickling up.

I have stripped and rebuilt hydraulic rams sucessfully in the past.

 

You could try simply bearings - Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oilite Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust

 

They are my No1 stopping place for bearings and seals!

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Yes - same method, it sounds like it may be a little loose anyway, if it has the threaded inside (where the recoil catches) you can use the Stihl removal tool other than that, the screwdriver method will probably work - just check there is a bit of endfloat in the crank, tap the screwdriver in behind it and whack the end of the crankshaft with a hard mallet - don't be tempted to use a hammer - it will mushroom the end and cause all sorts of issues.

 

You will need to work the broken key out of the crank and the flywheel - small screwdriver and small hammer will do it, then fit the new one, key in the flywheel and do it up again.

 

Hi Spud, Whats this screwdriver method? I have stripped the engine down on a set of trimmers (hs 60) and got one crank seal out but cant do the other side because i havnt managed to get the fly wheel off. I thought it screwed off but then looked at an exploded diagram and saw it had a woodruff key in there- so i am thinking i need a puller of some kind? i have some stihl removal tools but there is no thread in the fly wheel to use them, is there another way? and will i need a new woodruff key?

I havent done this before as you can probably tell :001_smile:

thanks in advance

matt

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Hi Spud, Whats this screwdriver method? I have stripped the engine down on a set of trimmers (hs 60) and got one crank seal out but cant do the other side because i havnt managed to get the fly wheel off. I thought it screwed off but then looked at an exploded diagram and saw it had a woodruff key in there- so i am thinking i need a puller of some kind? i have some stihl removal tools but there is no thread in the fly wheel to use them, is there another way? and will i need a new woodruff key?

I havent done this before as you can probably tell :001_smile:

thanks in advance

matt

 

Taking off the flywheel is usually a case of seeing if you can get a set of pullers underneath the flywheel and using this method but if this isn't an option, drive a large screwdriver down behind the flywheel between the flywheel and the crankcases and then wallop the end of the crank with a hard mallet, sometimes rotating the flywheel and tapping it heavily with a hard mallet will shift it.

 

Don't be too brutal but time and patience should see the thing off.

 

Investing in or making a set of pullers is also an option!

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The trigger interlock has started sticking on my 026. It won't travel all the way back up after it's been pressed in without the trigger being 'flicked' to get it to travel all the way out (the trigger that is), thus releasing the interlock...

 

Does this sound like a spent torsion spring?

 

I've had a good poke/clean around the trigger assembly and removed/reinstalled the entire thing, but no joy.

 

Spring?

 

:confused1:

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The trigger interlock has started sticking on my 026. It won't travel all the way back up after it's been pressed in without the trigger being 'flicked' to get it to travel all the way out (the trigger that is), thus releasing the interlock...

 

Does this sound like a spent torsion spring?

 

I've had a good poke/clean around the trigger assembly and removed/reinstalled the entire thing, but no joy.

 

Spring?

 

:confused1:

 

Don't reckon the spring could loose that much spring:confused1: Is the end located properly in the lock lever? Has the assembly been lubed? Sounds more like the parts are catching somehow making the lever tight.

 

I would check to see what is tight or catching!

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