What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

Have to look at a stihl 026 at some point. Using it today and it's hunting for tickover and doesn't feel like its peaking at full throttle.

 

Haven't taken it apart yet exept clean the air filter. Any suggestions before I start other than the obvious. Fuel blockage etc.

[spudulike]

Have to look at a stihl 026 at some point. Using it today and it's hunting for tickover and doesn't feel like its peaking at full throttle.

 

Haven't taken it apart yet exept clean the air filter. Any suggestions before I start other than the obvious. Fuel blockage etc.

 

Those 024/026s can be fiddly little buggers, from experience I start at 3/4 turns on the H&L screw then dial in the L screw and tach the H.

 

The airfilter is pretty close to the carb throat and you can get blowback saturating the filter if the carb is set too rich.

 

Other than that - do the typical clean and adjust of the carb. pipes and filters - worth checking the breather is clear!

 

Typical stuff!

[swinny]

Those 024/026s can be fiddly little buggers, from experience I start at 3/4 turns on the H&L screw then dial in the L screw and tach the H.

 

The airfilter is pretty close to the carb throat and you can get blowback saturating the filter if the carb is set too rich.

 

Other than that - do the typical clean and adjust of the carb. pipes and filters - worth checking the breather is clear!

 

Typical stuff!

 

Yeah i noticed this on my 024.... it was playing up and i set the h + l back to standard 1 turn out..... but it was a right pain, its somewhere set between 3/4 and 1 turn out on the l screw. It wouldn't idle too good any richer.

 

Finally got a fuel tank vent for my other 024 today when passing dick leighs so that should be working well now after a quick run and check

 

I really rate the little 024's esp for little domestic jobs etc

[swinny]

Recently got another 200t spares repairs.

 

Anyhow it would fire but not rev or idle etc. I checked comp it was 150psi, Spark plug was wrong one and loose, so replaced that.

 

It has a carb with the adjustment restrictor cap on the H setting screw.

 

Tried a different carb but still the same, took it to bits to see some scoring on the exhaust side of the piston, there is a little score to the cylinder and the piston didn't seem to bad but my question is, surely it should have run better or done something with 150psi compression?

 

Or even though piston scored slightly, 150psi means its still ok and something else is up?

 

 

Needless to say i'll be getting a fresh piston sorted, mostlikely a meteor one.

 

Has anyone prices an original one up if so what was the price?

 

Cheers Ears

[spudulike]

Recently got another 200t spares repairs.

 

Anyhow it would fire but not rev or idle etc. I checked comp it was 150psi, Spark plug was wrong one and loose, so replaced that.

 

It has a carb with the adjustment restrictor cap on the H setting screw.

 

Tried a different carb but still the same, took it to bits to see some scoring on the exhaust side of the piston, there is a little score to the cylinder and the piston didn't seem to bad but my question is, surely it should have run better or done something with 150psi compression?

 

Or even though piston scored slightly, 150psi means its still ok and something else is up?

 

 

Needless to say i'll be getting a fresh piston sorted, mostlikely a meteor one.

 

Has anyone prices an original one up if so what was the price?

 

Cheers Ears

 

150psi is good but you can find it drops off fast when the saw warms up depending on clearences and wear - just had this also on an MS200 - 150psi warm and rapidly dropped to sub 130 when warm giving starting and ideling issues.

 

Also the type of compression gauge can give different readings.

 

I believe the OEM piston is circa £65 and the Meteor £25 - Tesgol/Sawbits does them on ebay and his site - good choice on a decent saw just make sure the bore is clear of any transfered aluminium otherwise the ring will sustain damage.

 

You should get 150psi hot and less drop when warm - noticeable on pulling the starter recoil!

 

Make sure you pressure/vac test it on reassembly - sounds like the saw has run lean at some stage for one reason or another.

 

The H screw limiter can be lifted to the top of the H screw to allow adjustment.

[swinny]

It wouldn't run long enough to get warmed up only 5 seconds or so....

 

also lifted that limiter cap off to adjust the h but no help for the revs at this point

 

Also though it may have been a small seize or starting to seize slightly but a problem elsewhere, thats why it maintained the 150psi compression

Edited August 3, 2012 by swinny

[spudulike]

It wouldn't run long enough to get warmed up only 5 seconds or so....

 

also lifted that limiter cap off to adjust the h but no help for the revs at this point

 

Also though it may have been a small seize or starting to seize slightly but a problem elsewhere, thats why it maintained the 150psi compression

 

Possibly an air leak - the impulse line where it goes in to the crankcase is a weak point and the carb inlet boot/manifold can split - crank seals are generally strong but can go hard on old machines.

 

Other than that, the carb gauze filter can fill with crud and worth checking.

[swinny]

Seen the weak spot on the impulse line, carb gauze clear.

 

will have a good look at it

[timberbear]

A spot of bar straightening!

[mattplace]

A spot of bar straightening! [ATTACH]97874[/ATTACH]

 

Come on then... What happened???!