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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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I actually stopped doing services on mowers as it was always a pain.

 

Might start again just to stop me getting on her nerves being in the house.

 

God knows how many shears I've done, know one knows how to use a file anymore, there are a few bits to do but they are call outs on chippers but they are engine service or blade changes.

 

Had a Greenmech that was slamming the back of a truck on Friday, ram had gone on the hitch, 80 quid for a ram and it was a 5 min job.

 

There is my other problem how do I charge for a job that only takes 5 mins, I have always struggled to charge a suitable amount for a really small pathetic job that takes me longer to get out the van than do the job or longer to get it in the workshop.......

Just have to remember why you are doing it.

 

Because the customer either can't, or does not want to do it so he turns to you.

 

The time the job actually takes is the the time from when you decide to do it to the time its finished and you are free to start the next.

 

So clearing the space to work on it, getting it to that space, deciding what to do, looking up part, sourcing the part, fitting it, testing it, taking the machine out of the work space, tidying up the workspace, writing the invoice and ringing the customer.

 

I, bet you can't do that in 5 minutes!! Got to be worth 1/2 hr minimum. and at a higher rate for first 1/2 hr than normal. I would charge £25 to a good customer, £45 to a stranger.

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Yeah about on those lines. I have a usuall costumer that I don't charge labour only parts, he helped me a lot to set up when I first started and gave me work on the tree side ( how I got into tree work in the first place)

 

I like to think that I have got a good setup now with the mobile part just taking off with the Landy and a workshop to work in.

 

Just had a call out on a defender, mate of mine and he said that he just cleaned all the mud off his and he noticed a "bit hanging off the back" had to laugh. Support strut for rear axle bolt had sheared off.

 

Don't think I can get it on the bench tho lol

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Think the red haze has lifted - tried another carb off a 029 after trying the one off another 390 and it fired and runs perfectly, don't know what the odds are on having two carbs showing exactly the same fault:001_rolleyes:

 

I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and it now runs fine, the needle valve has a ridge around it and reckon it is either sticking closed or seeping fuel through that didn't show when I pressure and vac tested the carb.

 

Anyway - I have recommended fitting a new carb kit and think the saw will have a new lease of life now.

 

Just glad my 100% fix rate is intact again:thumbup:

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The carb was pushed in to the Impulse line so the air was leaking through the impulse circuit and evacuating through the needle valve in to the bore of the carb - on the 048 it has a separate impulse line as I am sure you know and can plug it or just use the carb, fortunately on this one I took the easy option and used the carb to seal the impulse which showed the leak - vac and pressure testing the carb would have shown the fault also!

 

Oh I see.:thumbup1:

But for air to reach the inlet needle (and then through the main nozzle into the bore) from the impulse passage the pump diaphragm and/or gasket must have been leaking. Which might explain why it ran lean.

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Think the red haze has lifted - tried another carb off a 029 after trying the one off another 390 and it fired and runs perfectly, don't know what the odds are on having two carbs showing exactly the same fault:001_rolleyes:

 

I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and it now runs fine, the needle valve has a ridge around it and reckon it is either sticking closed or seeping fuel through that didn't show when I pressure and vac tested the carb.

 

Anyway - I have recommended fitting a new carb kit and think the saw will have a new lease of life now.

 

Just glad my 100% fix rate is intact again:thumbup:

 

Do both carbs have inlet needles with ridges (I presume you mean grooves) in them?

 

If the new carb kit doesn't fix it it will likely be the main nozzle check valve at fault.

 

:beerchug:

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Do both carbs have inlet needles with ridges (I presume you mean grooves) in them?

 

If the new carb kit doesn't fix it it will likely be the main nozzle check valve at fault.

 

:beerchug:

 

The needle had a ridge/groove/line/deformation in it caused by the wear on the fuel inlet hole or pressure of the metering arm spring on the needle.

 

I think having it stripped and in the US cleaner allowed it to swell a little and when re-assembled, it ran fine but have been there before so will fit the new kit and reckon it will be 100% after that.

 

I didn't check my other carb but have learn't yet another trick - without a magnifying glass, I wouldn't have noticed it but the eyesight isn't what it used to be:001_rolleyes:

 

It has been a right bugger to fix - never had a carb like it, they usually throw in the towel and work when I pull them apart.

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what are your thoughts of a oleo-mac 942 please be gentle with me

 

i,ve been asked to repair this for a builder/roofer i hav,nt called him yet etc he just said it stopped and i hate liars i,ve flicked the exhaust off and grimdeath has had a visit no oil in petrol etc

 

i hate it when a saw has been run on raw petrol makes my blood boil what should i do repair it or lob it in the bin as i know nowt about these saws are they chepo,s etc as it reminds me of a husky to be honest >>>>> is it worth a piston kit or a pot n piston kit ????? as i,am unsure if its chrome bore etc both are badly marked up it must of been hot and running at full chat when it failed etc

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Thought I would start a new thread as per the title and start it off with the below: -

A 254XP, lean seized - I have cleaned the cylinder of aluminium transfer, lightly abraded the cylinder with wet and dry, fitted a new piston and pressure checked it...all OK. Unusual as it had seized on inlet and outlet piston sides.

 

Compression measures 145psi but expect this to go up once fueled and run - the cylinder has some light scores but will run and have decent power once done.

 

IMO replacing a piston after a serious siezer is so risky, just one speck of metal from the old piston and your back to square one. Ive got the Tshirt!!

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Been stripping down a family heirloom today, a Husky Rancher 50.

 

Nice solid old machine - covered in grime but is looking good now. It passed the pressure check and failed the vac check, thought it was the oil pump side crank seal but then found the leak was on the carb boot so will fit a new one and retest.

 

Looks a bit cleaner on the second shot doesnt it:thumbup:

P1040027.JPG.889b679e2089b28c18d8bf54f253997f.JPG

P1040026.jpg.b5dc8d64ce156ce647c7bb9aa9f57440.jpg

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