Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

What's on your bench today?


spudulike

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to thank Spud for the latest two saws he has done for me. A 357 and a 362, both are much improved, especially the 357 which I finally managed to get running on 3/8th chain. The 362 is a nice saw too, better than it ever was but not as mental as the 357.

 

Plus he even chucked in a few freebies; a husky hat and some pens and sweets! Top man.

 

Cheers Steve!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

Just wanted to thank Spud for the latest two saws he has done for me. A 357 and a 362, both are much improved, especially the 357 which I finally managed to get running on 3/8th chain. The 362 is a nice saw too, better than it ever was but not as mental as the 357.

 

Plus he even chucked in a few freebies; a husky hat and some pens and sweets! Top man.

 

Cheers Steve!

 

Never a problem Tom, glad it all worked out OKand that you are happy:thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well after spending Saturday cleaning the fuel tank, air filter and stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the carb the new spark plug arrived today. Got it fitted and mixed up some 16:1 ready to start. First problem was fuel not being drawn down to the carb, suspected the old fuel line was loose at the carb fitting and drawing in air so replaced the fuel line. Still wouldn't draw fuel down the line so pulled the plug and injected a bit of fuel into the cylinder and she fired up.

 

r-mac-albums-chainsaws-picture7950-danarm-dd8f-mk111.jpg

 

Back to the carb, fuel was leaking from the base plate so re-seated it and tried again, still no go. Pulled the carb again, stripped it, double checked the diaphragm for pinholes, looked ok so built the carb up again and re-fitted, sucked some fuel into the line and stuck it back on the carb, bingo it fired up albeit a bit smokey (as you'd expect at 16:1) Had already set the High/Low to spec and it was running quite well but nowhere near as smoothly as a modern saw.

 

Stuck the bar on, went to start it to video it running, 1st pull it fired, 2nd pull the starter rope broke!!!!!!

 

r-mac-albums-chainsaws-picture7951-danarm-dd8f-mk111.jpg

 

Happy enough though, will sort the starter cord, clean and service the bar and see if the biscuit tin full of saw chains has one to match the saw/bar.

 

So should I completely strip and restore the saw or leave it as is, any opinions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well after spending Saturday cleaning the fuel tank, air filter and stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the carb the new spark plug arrived today. Got it fitted and mixed up some 16:1 ready to start. First problem was fuel not being drawn down to the carb, suspected the old fuel line was loose at the carb fitting and drawing in air so replaced the fuel line. Still wouldn't draw fuel down the line so pulled the plug and injected a bit of fuel into the cylinder and she fired up.

 

r-mac-albums-chainsaws-picture7950-danarm-dd8f-mk111.jpg

 

Back to the carb, fuel was leaking from the base plate so re-seated it and tried again, still no go. Pulled the carb again, stripped it, double checked the diaphragm for pinholes, looked ok so built the carb up again and re-fitted, sucked some fuel into the line and stuck it back on the carb, bingo it fired up albeit a bit smokey (as you'd expect at 16:1) Had already set the High/Low to spec and it was running quite well but nowhere near as smoothly as a modern saw.

 

Stuck the bar on, went to start it to video it running, 1st pull it fired, 2nd pull the starter rope broke!!!!!!

 

r-mac-albums-chainsaws-picture7951-danarm-dd8f-mk111.jpg

 

Happy enough though, will sort the starter cord, clean and service the bar and see if the biscuit tin full of saw chains has one to match the saw/bar.

 

So should I completely strip and restore the saw or leave it as is, any opinions?

 

Good job, nearly there, as far as painting it, if you do it, do it well or don't bother. There is nothing worse than a saw hand painted over battered casings!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job, nearly there, as far as painting it, if you do it, do it well or don't bother. There is nothing worse than a saw hand painted over battered casings!

 

Totally agree, new paint over old and chipped paint looks like a tart-up job. The old paint will need to be stripped and the casings smoothed off, especially on the starter housing.

 

Strangely the yellow paint has almost completely gone from the actual engine casings, the Villiers parts, yet has survived remarkably well on the rest of the saw, the Danarm parts.

 

Sounds great by the way, loud and a bit unstable :biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Danarm DD8F mk3A that hasn't been started in a long, long time, I've never seen it running. Turns over ok on the recoil starter so will check for spark and if that's ok I'll fuel it up (12-1!!!) and see what happens. If I can get it to even fire I'll strip and service it.

 

There's a IIA for sale on gumtree looks like it needs some TLC as well but it's all there and he says he has spares for them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I saw that one, as it stands I only need a chain now although there is slight damage to the recoil starter housing (may contact the seller to see if he has a spare) All the chains have are too short and I'm having difficulty figuring out what size it takes, looks bigger than 3/8.

 

The bar is Oregon marked as 33425 and 2863N2905 but Google doesn't provide any results. I'm thinking it's probably a type 58 or type 59 which are both 0.404 pitch. There's not much point in measuring the bar groove as the 58 is 1.5mm (0.058") gauge and the 59 is 1.6mm (0.063") gauge so considering the age of the saw and the wear on the bar it could be either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brings back memories, spotted it was a villiers in the first pic, the first engine I ever stripped down when I was 14 was a 6e 197cc, early 50`s I think, from a bike not from a saw, but it`s interesting to consider what fuel / oil ratio you would use in the same engine now with modern synthetic oils.

I`m thinking you might get away with somewhere between 25 / 40 - 1, any thoughts ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I've read around 20:1 to 25:1 on modern oils seems to work, less smoke and less unburnt oil blown from the exhaust but as good for lubricating the cylinder as older oils at 16:1.

 

I'd err on the side of caution as I don't want to wreck it, while it's capable of running it's a saw, when it's broken it's an anchor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.