What's on your bench today?

[wisecobandit]

Yes that's fine, you'd need to whip the vane off to get more tension for higher rpm. Pity that's a normal contra, not a super, although that's a non-OEM muffler on it, well it may have been OEM for an 075 once...

Have you tried the contra against the 3120?

Was it the whole flywheel that was loose? Or just the starter cup?

And I thought you'd done an 070? It's the same saw effectively, minus a decompression valve and half decent air filter

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

Not an 075 exhaust.

Could it be off an 08?

[Eddy_t]

Not an 075 exhaust.

 

Could it be off an 08?

 

 

No, the 08 is very similar to the contra/070/090 muffler

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[spudulike]

Yes that's fine, you'd need to whip the vane off to get more tension for higher rpm. Pity that's a normal contra, not a super, although that's a non-OEM muffler on it, well it may have been OEM for an 075 once...

Have you tried the contra against the 3120?

Was it the whole flywheel that was loose? Or just the starter cup?

And I thought you'd done an 070? It's the same saw effectively, minus a decompression valve and half decent air filter

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

I was caretaking the 070 - arranged shipment to mine for A N Other! It was the cup that was loose - I think the ignition timing isn't controlled by the flywheel as it is on the contact breaker anyway - the flywheel apears just to have magnets on its inside to generate the voltage to spark but not time the spark......I think:confused1:

 

The exhaust doesn't look right but the clip on it fits the top cover perfectly - Oh well, it runs, the starter works now......don't oil the pawls - thats my advice on that one!

[Goaty]

Wiseco, I too escape with fixit projects. The other week my iphone got wrecked. I followed an online instructable and rebuilt it for £20.65 plus my time. I've since bought a broken iphone 4 and intend to do the same. Very satisfying. Also once earlier in this thread I mentioned fixing my macbook backlight cable for £16. one shop said bin it. Online price for repair was £200.

 

Back to subject The filter choke mechanism worked fine. The carb does have a butterfly.I reckon its a carb issue. The piston/plug was dry all the time, but I cannot clearly remember if I checked it after I got it going. I only have huskys and am familiar with their workshop manuals and set ups..

 

I couldn't find online manual pdf or parts diagrams for woodboss.

Edited May 1, 2014 by Goaty

[Eddy_t]

I was caretaking the 070 - arranged shipment to mine for A N Other! It was the cup that was loose - I think the ignition timing isn't controlled by the flywheel as it is on the contact breaker anyway - the flywheel apears just to have magnets on its inside to generate the voltage to spark but not time the spark......I think:confused1:

 

 

 

The exhaust doesn't look right but the clip on it fits the top cover perfectly - Oh well, it runs, the starter works now......don't oil the pawls - thats my advice on that one!

 

 

The flywheel controls when the points open, but the timing is adjustable and can be retarded or advanced quite a fair bit (found that out the hard way!)

And the fm starter is a friction pawls, I'd have thought oiling the pawls would have been obvious they're great saws to work on, very basic! To do any work involving removal of the clutch or flywheel you put a metal piston stop in the crankcase (there's a big metal bolt under the saw, by the muffler)

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[Eddy_t]

This is the split conrod and replaceable big end I mentioned

The muffler should look like this, but with 2 lugs, a pin and a catch on top, the muffler has the date engraved on, but looking at the contra you have there, I'm going to guess at early-mid 60's, as it has an earlier carb and crankcase

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[wisecobandit]

Wiseco, I too escape with fixit projects. The other week my iphone got wrecked. I followed an online instructable and rebuilt it for £20.65 plus my time. I've since bought a broken iphone 4 and intend to do the same. Very satisfying. Also once earlier in this thread I mentioned fixing my macbook backlight cable for £16. one shop said bin it. Online price for repair was £200.

 

Back to subject The filter choke mechanism worked fine. The carb does have a butterfly.I reckon its a carb issue. The piston/plug was dry all the time, but I cannot clearly remember if I checked it after I got it going. I only have huskys and am familiar with their workshop manuals and set ups..

 

I couldn't find online manual pdf or parts diagrams for woodboss.

Yeah you sound much like me. I just replaced a screen on a sat nav lol. This weekend im replacing brakes on an old fiat tractor (brake bands)... talk about 1 extent to the other...

That carb is the original, built to be used with the silly air filter choke. The butterfly you see is the throttle control butterfly and nothing that relates to a choke so the air filter choke needs to operate with the on/off/choke switch which you said wasn't happening as wasn't coming into contact with the lever?

I don't know why they use this system on the 024/026/240/260 models as no other stihls use it. Just like the husky carbs they have a second butterfly and linkage on everything else within reason.

The ipl is the same pretty much on all the 024/026/240/260 models. Ignore the woodboss as just a marketing gimmick the saw wasn't different than any other just like the farm boss. Carbs where changed a few times but main difference was some had 1 some had to mixture screws. Obviously piston/bore/stroke vary but everything else is the same except the pro models which had decomp valve and adjustable oil pump.

For an ipl look here

Eclatés Tronçonneuses thermiques

Edited May 2, 2014 by wisecobandit

[spudulike]

The saw stopped working suddenly as it ran. Was switched off I understand and then never ran again. The choke doesn't flip the air filter valve it doesnt reach. I thought maybe it was a filter that several models used but this one didn't need it. The lever is still on the choke/stop switch.

 

I did the thumb in carb inlet trick and it ran for a 2 seconds at most. I have given it back, but may get to see it tomorrow. Thanks Wisecobandit. Obviously you don't like being beat either.

 

Here we go again:001_rolleyes: if the choke isn't sealling well, the saw will have issues drawing enough fuel in to the engine so this mechanism has to be right. Other issues that can be fuel related are: -

 

Blocked fuel filter, holed fuel line, holed/split impulse line, poor connection from carb to impulse line (seen that before on non OEM lines), holed pump diaphragm(common on the flaps and around the central hole - use a bright light behind it), incorrecct order of carb gaskets, blocked gauze strainer, holed diaphragm, metering arm not set correctly - this arm is set level to the BASE of the bowl of the carb not the sealing faces, poor compression, incorrectly adjusted carb H&L screws, faulty check valve, incorrecct diaphragm fitted - the central stud is longer than the MS200 one, blocked fuel tank breather.

 

Thats about it:001_rolleyes:

[flames]

-friends Husky 142 with an oiling problem.

 

Stripped the oil pump and cleaned it, (surprised how simple the pump is - bar with a flat machined on one end). checked that the tank vent wasn't blocked.

 

But when I ran the saw it still wasn't oiling properly, on closer inspection oil was coming out of the tank vent.

 

Has any one else seen this? Is something missing, like a non return valve, one's not shown on the spares diagram?

[Eddy_t]

Yeah, you're missing a brass plug

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App