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No you're all wrong. It was a heavy piece and the reason it swung so wildly was because of the position of the rigging pulley/lowering point being so far from the limb.

The camera position 'flattened' the angles and in fact the lump was a good 12ft from the playhouse roof at the closest swing.

 

We're also learning with it, experimenting with varying tension when lifting and varying wraps when lowering. Each time we maintain a large margin for error at the start and gradually erode that in order to find the limits.

 

Thanks for watching as I'm always looking for constructive criticism as compliments won't teach me anything:thumbup1:

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just remember the back up strop attached to the bottom attachment point incase the ratchet fails, and it does fail if you hit it with a log your lowering had it happen.

 

also after you have finished with the pre loading you will need to move the lever out of the way before lowering.

 

Thanks, I forgot the back up strop, again.

 

Do you really need to move the lever? I've found that if it's folded back it's all ok. Reg Coates said he leaves it on too.

Of course I would remove it if there is a risk of damaging it.

What's your experience?

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Might be an idea to put a tag line on a piece like that and put it round the tree to check the swing when the blocks set far out.

 

If that piece clipped the trunk or something on the way past it would dramatically alter its flight path.

 

You don't want a bit like that hitting you in the head. :ahhhhh:

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just remember the back up strop attached to the bottom attachment point incase the ratchet fails, and it does fail if you hit it with a log your lowering had it happen.

 

also after you have finished with the pre loading you will need to move the lever out of the way before lowering.

 

:lol: Remember that massive bit of oak i dropped onto my Stein:blushing: I personally hated the pre tension thing as i found it awkward when i used james so i went with the 3001. For me i would be best suited with the grcs as i rarely need a dual bollard but i will say they are built very well.

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:lol: Remember that massive bit of oak i dropped onto my Stein:blushing: I personally hated the pre tension thing as i found it awkward when i used james so i went with the 3001. For me i would be best suited with the grcs as i rarely need a dual bollard but i will say they are built very well.

 

Fair point Ian and thanks for posting here.

I don't need the two bollards either but for the way I work, a GRCS speedy lifting ability would probably get me home 4 minutes earlier so it was impossible to justify the extra money.

Reg Coates also pointed out to me that pulley and rope tying positions are the most crucial element rather than lifting power, so again, the GRCS would be overkill for me.

 

So far, the Dual has been spotless. I'll get some better video next week and put it on here.

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Fair point Ian and thanks for posting here.

I don't need the two bollards either but for the way I work, a GRCS speedy lifting ability would probably get me home 4 minutes earlier so it was impossible to justify the extra money.

Reg Coates also pointed out to me that pulley and rope tying positions are the most crucial element rather than lifting power, so again, the GRCS would be overkill for me.

 

So far, the Dual has been spotless. I'll get some better video next week and put it on here.

 

Did you find the pre tension arm awkward to take off once you had created tension? Me and James thought it would of been better suited to have a ball pivot. The thing i prefer about the grcs is its lift to create tension but like you say it is a lot more £££. My bollard took a direct impact of about a tonne of timber and didn't even flinch. :thumbup1:

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