Tachometer

[Cut4fun]

The new stihl tachs are a slow 1.5 second refresh rate as is the Bailyes tachs, to slow for my liking.

 

You want a tach with .5 second refresh rate that the old stihl tachs were or the newer Tech tach TT-20k or fast tach.

 

Amick's carries a good line of new tachs with .5 refresh rates here in the US for $85 USD.

 

The cheapie tachs i call them for $20-$25 have a 2.5 second refresh rate.

 

IF I were buying one today, this is my choice. DTI Tech Tach TT-20K Small 2 Cycle Two Stroke Tachometer

 

 

 

Two and Four Cycle Tachs Tachometers

[Mesterh]

Ive got the TECH-TACH TT-20K, and its great.

 

Think it was around £60, but that was a good few years ago.

[zzr1200]

I can now recommend the Fast-Tach, my small saw now sounds like demented bee again and its cutting a lot faster.......

[Old WoodChip]

I got the 20K Tiny-Tach: Diesel Tachometers from ITCO

cant go wrong its well made & comes in a rubber case/sleeve, also has wires if you want to use them but I just place in next to a saw and it works great with no wires connected but sure they will come in handy one day:thumbup:

[Maico490]

You'd better add me to that list as well, I've been looking for a Tach for ages.

 

I e-mailed Tiny-Tach last night at 10-30pm asking for an agents address in the UK, recieved a return email from them at 7-18 am this morning with a price. If I confirmed the order by email, the tach will be sent out today, with an invoice for payment on delivery.

 

Now that's service and my tach is in the post (recorded delivery).

 

Sorted and I owe another beer......

 

Could you post who the UK agents are please.

[Harrybob]

Hey everyone,

I just ordered the DTI Tech Tach TT-20K and I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction on a few questions;

 

When setting the h-screw, say your saw spec is 13,000 rpm max, is that exactly how you set it regardless of fuel/air ratios? I'm assuming 13,000 is just a guideline and there is a + / - to get your saw sounding right?

 

Also if the above is the case is there any fail safe way anyone has done the fine tune, has a fuel/air metre been used by anyone?

 

I am not that confident on setting the L-screw by ear either.

 

Thanks

Chris

[pleasant]

We use the Stihl EDT7 (earlier version of the current models) and the refresh is very slow IMO.

[spudulike]

Hey everyone,

I just ordered the DTI Tech Tach TT-20K and I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction on a few questions;

 

When setting the h-screw, say your saw spec is 13,000 rpm max, is that exactly how you set it regardless of fuel/air ratios? I'm assuming 13,000 is just a guideline and there is a + / - to get your saw sounding right?

 

Also if the above is the case is there any fail safe way anyone has done the fine tune, has a fuel/air metre been used by anyone?

 

I am not that confident on setting the L-screw by ear either.

 

Thanks

Chris

 

Personally I set saws with new pistons to 1k rpm below max revs and saws that are run in to 500rpm below max revs. You should also be able to hear the difference in engine note at flat out after it is done and listen out for the fourstroking sound at wide open throttle.

 

My own regime is the set the carb to factory, fire the saw up, screw the L screw in until the revs rise to a fast idle and then start to drop (turn the scew slowly) then undo the screw until the revs rise and start to fall, there is a point when the revs just start to pop/hunt a little - this is where I usually leave off - also blip the throttle to make sure th esaw picks up cleanly, if it boggs then undo the L screw a little more.

 

Let the saw warm up and do a few 1 second flet out runs and note where the revs are and undo the H screw to knock the revs down or clockwise to get them higher. The carb acts as a fuel based rev limiter and this is how it is set.

 

Some modern saws have rev limiters built in to the ignition coil, if you find the tach flashing out random numbers when close to the saws maximum revs then it has a limiter, back off the H screw to bring the revs down until the tach has stabilised and then tweak the carb up to around 500rpm below max - the ignition and tach should alow this.

 

It takes a while to do this well and I still fire the saw up cold once it is done to make surte the idle is OK - practice makes perfect - if there is such a thing!

 

Let me know if you need max rev details of any saws

[spudulike]

We use the Stihl EDT7 (earlier version of the current models) and the refresh is very slow IMO.

 

I got the TT-20K - very good and wireless operation - nice hold function on max revs as well and a fast refresh of 0.5 seconds. You can change the battery on this workshop model - around £75 and worth every penny IMO - takes any error out of tuning by ear and makes the tuning of the higher revving saws much easier.

 

Got the UK reps details if you are ever interested - no commercial link or otherwise between me and them:thumbup:

[Harrybob]

Thanks Spud,

I appreciate your response The saws I have are; a stihl 660, new and two old stihl 028's that I just rebuilt with new cylinder/pistons. Do you think on the 028's I should drop the 1000k being they have new cylinders? Oh and my neighbour has a Stihl 026 he needs tuning, if you possibly know the max rpm's on these saws?

 

I was just going to take them a stihl store to get tuned but they wanted $100 each to tune! Worth buying the $85 tacho.

 

How much of a screw twist is there generally between rich and lean? It seemed more of a screw twist than I expected on the 028 to get the different sounds.

 

Do you know whether a fuel/air meter even exists for chainsaws, although I think by ear with the muffler and its restrictions still on is the better way to go.

 

Thanks

Chris