What else to replace when replacing piston and pot?

[High Scale]

The ones I buy come out of a factory, or did you mean genuine parts?

 

Well yes of course, but if they are not available I get my five year old son to knock something up at his after school wood work class.

Edited January 3, 2011 by High Scale

[josharb87]

Alright Josh! I'd go for genuine parts. It's a bit of a ball ache changing a pot and piston and takes a bit of time.

 

The piston rings should come with the piston. Also sometimes you may need to change the crankshaft bearing if there's play in it.

 

Hi Rob!, Theres a tiny bit of play in the crank, so that'd be a full gasket set needed too, anything else to look for?

[Rob D]

When you change everything over make sure there are no tiny bits of metal left floating around as these can get picked up and you end up back where you started! Blow and suck it all 110% clean!

[spudulike]

Hi Rob!, Theres a tiny bit of play in the crank, so that'd be a full gasket set needed too, anything else to look for?

 

Depends where the play is, if it is side to side then don't worry, if the saw has needle crank bearings then don't worry, if it has "up and down play" with roller bearings then worry:001_smile:!!!

 

Spud

[raker]

If its cos its seized through anything other than not putting oil on the fuel or its just worn, then it might be a lean seizure and the carb boot fuel line and case seals might want looking at otherwise it will seize again.

[josharb87]

i got it as a non runner, the mesh basket in the carb was full of crud, cleaned out, ran perfect, done near 100 hours, then packed up again-wouldnt idle without reving, then wouldnt start without chokem then died. stripped it today, exhaust port side of cylinder and chamber badly scored.

spud, only slight side to side movement

[Tom2020]

Nice one thats what i thought.

 

Anyone got views on non genuine parts? or as im assuming, not worth the bother?

 

 

To the non genuine parts Ill only ever get parts what are not extremely to the saw E.g screws little bits and bob Anything that makes the saw run like the piston I would always go genuine

[18 stoner]

What saw are we on Josh?

[josharb87]

stihl 046 mate

[treequip]

To the non genuine parts Ill only ever get parts what are not extremely to the saw E.g screws little bits and bob Anything that makes the saw run like the piston I would always go genuine

 

Why would you reject pattern parts?

 

Have you actually compared genuine and pattern parts?

 

I have an 026 with a pattern barrel and piston going strong at over a year old and I know of plenty more in that and other models.