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Dear Husqvarna


Andy Collins
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Perhaps you could use lockwire and tab washers as used on race bikes.

 

You can drill a small hole through a bolt head or a corner of a nut and wire it to something solid, or another nut, with stainless steel wire.

 

Also available, and perhaps easier if you don't have a pillar drill, are tab washers. They have one long tab with a hole for the wire, and several shorter tabs that can be bent up against a flat on a nut or bolt head. You've probably seen something similar on car wheel-bearing retaining nuts.

 

Here is an example of tabs;

 

Progressive Suspension Safety Lock Wire Starter Kit | Set Up Equipment | Pit & Paddock Accessories | Motorcycle Shop | Demon Tweeks

 

And here's a quick guide to lock-wiring;

 

http://www.byrongliding.com/lockwire.htm

Edited by Catweazle
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So maybe if they are set up right they are good for life??

 

I often wonder that myself. It doesn't really make sense yet my 12 year old Stihl 036 that has done some flippin cutting and never ever broken was set up by Radmore & Tucker who might pee people off from time to time but boy can they "commision" a saw. It hasn't even been tuned in all that time and is the best running saw I have from 30 year old Dolmars to a 1 year old MS460.

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Just wondering since it does seem that some people have bad luck with certain saws with the loosening of bolts etc could because of something like an out of balance crank or flywheel upping the vibes a bit.

 

I doubt anyone is going to bother changing them out to test it but it must be something causing the problem.

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Hi All,

 

Just looking at this problem from a purely engineering perspective...

 

We can be fairly certain that this is not a design problem, especially when you consider the manufacturers involved. It would seem from the above posts that people have had problems with both Stihl and Husqvarna saws dismantling themselves. Neither of these manufacturers are renowned for producing a cheaply engineered product.

 

So, I can only assume that it is a dealer/maintenance/user issue here.

 

Dealer: Saw not set up correctly. Not tested. Perhaps fastener locking mechanisms not installed correctly. Was the product just used straight out of the box perhaps ?

 

Maintenance: Is the saw maintained commensurate with its work rate ? Is the saw maintained by someone who has the knowledge/training/experience to carry it out ? Is the saw maintained by someone who is mechanically sympathetic ? Genuine parts used in maintenance ?

 

User: Is the saw used by someone who is mechanically sympathetic ? Is the saw used within its design parameters ? Are the pre-use checks carried out properly ?

 

I mention these things because I see a grounds maintenance contracting company in action every day where I live, and the way the equipment is treated is disgraceful. It must cost the organisation involved a lot of money in repair and maintenance and probably get the manufacturer a bad name also.

 

Obviously, I am not tryng to imply that people mis-treat their own equipment in any way, but there must be a reason for the problems encountered, when they are not suffered by everyone.

 

Lightmart

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There are a number of other options other than the chemical fastening that seems to be recommended earlier.

 

The chemical fasteners are very suceptible to heat and if both surfaces to be treated are not chemically clean, the bond will not take, thus the fastener loosens again.

 

Loctite do produce threadlocking compunds especially designed for high temperature applications, see Loctite High Temperature Threadlockers

 

It is rated at 650 Fahrenheit/350 Celsius, which should be sufficient for even exhaust bolts, or? The exhaust itself may get hotter, but it is the temperature in the thread itself that is important, here.

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If you have bolts shaking loose for whatever reason you need to be using a new washer design that increases the torque setting of the nut or bolt.

 

One dealer i know uses these is DM Chainsaws down in Yapton nr Arundel in West Sussex

tel 01243 554065 they will post you some but they are expensive.

 

Locking tabs on muffler bolts used to help and nyloc washers on AV mounts and side handle bolts helped.

As good practice how many invest in T bar allen and torx screw wrenches so a decent pressure can be applied without ripping out aluminium threads but getting a good nip up of the bolts. And from new before and after the first tank go around 360 and check everything ?

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