Rate My Hinge.

[Craobh]

I ain't gonna rate any. I will say tho that you guys do cut very low both to ground and where the top and undercut meet. Guess that the different styles here.

[Craobh]

So fo saw logs would I be better putting my gob upside down as it were?

 

I know this was posted a good while ago but the face your talking about is the humbolt. Safest face to fell big stuff with and it will minimizw breakage and fibre pull. The tree hits the ground differently

 

 

I did read a post in regards to shallow face etc. I have the upmost respect for all techs however a shallow face will increase the chances of a tree chairing on ya I was taught steep, deep and open allowing the tree to lift into the face and utilize the mechanics there in. IMO a very narrow strip of holding wood ya run the risk of losing control of the tree. I'm not talking bout manipulating the holding wood to swing the tree. Obviously if your on crap terrain eg a drop directly in front with a bank there after ya would want to manipulate to minimize pull and breakage ie. you might set the face as normal but cut off the holding wood with the top cut (I'm talking bout a humbolt here) then back the tree up (you'll still get the directional effect from the face and protection with the stump shot, sir issac does help here tho lol) and when the tree commits falling the holding wood will break off early and the tree should jump (in a manner of speaking) putting the butt in the hollow quickly allowing the rest to land on the up slope with out breaking.

 

 

That may be as clear as mud lol

 

 

 

There is another very old way that you can almost elimanate fibre pull which was (and guess still will be used) used when cutting for veneer but I WILL NOT describe it as it is dangerous and should not be used at all.

 

 

I am impressed by the stump shots tho......I did go out and look today for a few I'd have to swing and do fancy things to. I found a few and I'll fall em when I get time (wife is not well at the mo and the girls are home to look after her so things a bit hectic and tense .....the girls are driving me NUTS lol)

 

 

anyways keep cutting and be safe y'all

[Eddy_t]

I know this was posted a good while ago but the face your talking about is the humbolt. Safest face to fell big stuff with and it will minimizw breakage and fibre pull. The tree hits the ground differently

 

 

I did read a post in regards to shallow face etc. I have the upmost respect for all techs however a shallow face will increase the chances of a tree chairing on ya I was taught steep, deep and open allowing the tree to lift into the face and utilize the mechanics there in. IMO a very narrow strip of holding wood ya run the risk of losing control of the tree. I'm not talking bout manipulating the holding wood to swing the tree. Obviously if your on crap terrain eg a drop directly in front with a bank there after ya would want to manipulate to minimize pull and breakage ie. you might set the face as normal but cut off the holding wood with the top cut (I'm talking bout a humbolt here) then back the tree up (you'll still get the directional effect from the face and protection with the stump shot, sir issac does help here tho lol) and when the tree commits falling the holding wood will break off early and the tree should jump (in a manner of speaking) putting the butt in the hollow quickly allowing the rest to land on the up slope with out breaking.

 

 

That may be as clear as mud lol

 

 

 

There is another very old way that you can almost elimanate fibre pull which was (and guess still will be used) used when cutting for veneer but I WILL NOT describe it as it is dangerous and should not be used at all.

 

 

I am impressed by the stump shots tho......I did go out and look today for a few I'd have to swing and do fancy things to. I found a few and I'll fall em when I get time (wife is not well at the mo and the girls are home to look after her so things a bit hectic and tense .....the girls are driving me NUTS lol)

 

 

anyways keep cutting and be safe y'all

 

We cut close as that is the way we get taught, it saves time for a grinder, and we get more workable wood, and as for preventing tearing of the fibres, we 'chase the hinge' which generally means we carry on cutting as the tree goes, would be interesting to see some of the more varied cuts they use on the other side of the pond though

 

 

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[Spruce Pirate]

We cut close to the ground as an inch at the bottom is worth a foot at the top (maybe more in high value timber), also if you find a lot of rot at the bottom when putting in the gub you can always move up the stem to get sound wood.

 

The humbolt is always quoted as saving fibre pull and presenting a square log for the mill, rather than losing the face cut from it, but most of the time it seems to result in timber loss due to the high stump. Since most of the face will be slab wood anyway I tend to think a conventional (to us) cut also has benefits in maximising timber production.

 

Definitely interested in seeing some of the fancy north american cuts Croabh, especially if you can explain what's going on.

[Craobh]

We cut close as that is the way we get taught, it saves time for a grinder, and we get more workable wood, and as for preventing tearing of the fibres, we 'chase the hinge' which generally means we carry on cutting as the tree goes, would be interesting to see some of the more varied cuts they use on the other side of the pond though

 

 

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We don't use grinders lol as for usable wood I'd argue with ya on that (I don't mean argue really) as the undercut I use comes from the stump but I get your theory.Chasing the hinge I'd like to see that but I'd guess it be like a kerf dutchman sorta personally I can get a tree of without doing that but other ways do interest me and it good to hear bout them.

[Craobh]

We cut close to the ground as an inch at the bottom is worth a foot at the top (maybe more in high value timber), also if you find a lot of rot at the bottom when putting in the gub you can always move up the stem to get sound wood.

 

The humbolt is always quoted as saving fibre pull and presenting a square log for the mill, rather than losing the face cut from it, but most of the time it seems to result in timber loss due to the high stump. Since most of the face will be slab wood anyway I tend to think a conventional (to us) cut also has benefits in maximising timber production.

 

Definitely interested in seeing some of the fancy north american cuts Croabh, especially if you can explain what's going on.

 

Bro if ya slabbing with a humbolt ya doing something wrong I'd guess maybe it not open enough.

 

 

I get your point with stumps tho I do and poss it cause things we cut more generally are bigger so less of a prob. I would add that east coast fallers would tend to back you guys over here tho lol and it does cause "discussions" when I am falling around home lol but I was taught in the NW so I kinda do it that way. I'm not saying your wrong just different but it is interesting

[monkeypollarding]

New to the site but not to the game, wat do you think ?

[Stubby]

Works for me !!

[Wolfie]

Always worth practicing one now and again. This one was probably leaning back about 15 degrees.

 

 

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[csservices]

Aprrox 14-16" ash with about 15-20 degree forward lean, felled off the far bank of a ditch back onto the field, saved my back as no bending as stood in the ditch