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Rate My Hinge.


Frank
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When I was felling for timber, it was drummed in to me to cut as low as possible with a small gob, and waste nothing.

 

But we were felling for the timber value and had plenty of tackle, big winchs etc on the job.

 

It is very rare nowadays that I get the luxury of felling a large, sound tree.

 

99% of the large trees I fell have something wrong with them.

 

The approach you take has to have a different focus.

 

We are already being paid to remove these trees, timber value comes way down the priority list and if there is any, its a bonus.

 

Knowing where to cut, when to cut and when to stop cutting is different for every tree in arb, whereas a more general, standard method can be used for most forestry work, IME.

 

The timber merchant who taught me, used to say, "The tree will tell you where it wants cutting."

 

The longer I am at it, the more I agree. :001_smile:

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I an still waiting for someone to tell me why small gobs are better, for any other reason than saving timber???

 

Allow me to give it a go... For me its about how you control the centre of gravity, but essentially:

 

- A small gob gives you more back-cut wood for the saw and any felling aids that might be required.

 

- A smaller gob gives you more leverage / lift from the very back of the back-cut.

 

- A larger sink on a backwards leaner can make everything just a bit more tricky - then again, on a tree leaning in the direction of fell it can help with pace and push the felled tree through neighbouring canopies.

 

Hope that helps?

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- A smaller gob gives you more leverage / lift from the very back of the back-cut.

 

 

But you require more leverage, because you have not undermined the COG, just get a tin of beans and a pencil. Put the pencil under the tin in the "recommended" hinge placement. Now push the tin as though it was a tree being felled, note the amount of pressure required to push the can.

 

Now move the pencil back to near the middle of the base of the can, now push the can again, the force require will be much less.

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- A larger sink on a backwards leaner can make everything just a bit more tricky -

 

I would argue the opposite is true, by cutting a larger gob you create a wider and thus stronger hinge, giving you better control as the tree comes upright.

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Hahaha. I'm imagining Dave sat at his desk with his little felling props. Play acting at felling large backleaning shampoo bottles over imaginary shoelace HV lines using a Parker pen as a felling bar and cutting pieces of an eraser to use as little wedges.

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Hahaha. I'm imagining Dave sat at his desk with his little felling props. Play acting at felling large backleaning shampoo bottles over imaginary shoelace HV lines using a Parker pen as a felling bar and cutting pieces of an eraser to use as little wedges.

 

Bloody hell!!!:001_huh:

 

Did I leave the web cam on again!!!!!!:001_huh:

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I would argue the opposite is true, by cutting a larger gob you create a wider and thus stronger hinge, giving you better control as the tree comes upright.

 

If the Tree is leaning back.The deeper you cut the face,the less Timber is holding the Tree up.

 

Might be fine if you have a tensioned winch line on it.But not flash if your tapping it over with Wedges.

 

My Face cuts for Trees are 30% Max.

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Hahaha. I'm imagining Dave sat at his desk with his little felling props. Play acting at felling large backleaning shampoo bottles over imaginary shoelace HV lines using a Parker pen as a felling bar and cutting pieces of an eraser to use as little wedges.

 

:laugh1:

 

I'll put my tin of beans and pencil back in the cupboard then.:blushing:

 

I always use big gobs and do deffo prefer then because if the reason mentioned above in siding the COG.

 

Although its probably also because I ain't that great at felling and end up messing about trying to get a decent straight cut.:blushing:

 

I do like to knock the odd wedge in though especially if its a bit of a back leaner.

Once again prob due to my lack of confidence:thumbup:

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