big tops and interesting cuts

[Dean Lofthouse]

I do high fells quite often for the same reason as Peter.

 

To fit a tree into a space that it wouldn't otherwise fit.

[18 stoner]

Ok, the way i see it is, I spent over 20 years in woodland treework before i became a climber(although ag based), and in all that time, and even now i can hear my instructor echoing in the back of my mind. His words were "dont forget your escape route!"

 

So why, oh why would anyone want to strap themselves to a stem at that height(when it would probably floor fell anyway) then introduce a potentially dangerous cut for the hell of it?

 

I cannot see any logic.

 

I realise this guy is not a member here, (although Steve has invited him to come over and explain his bizarre ways to us) but i really dont think this type of practice should be praised in any way, or accepted as a technique worth trying by anyone, ESPECIALLY in a leaning tree with unknown amounts of pressure being applied by a tractor!

 

Surely, if the tree was 20feet too tall to fell, take the top low enough till it fells from the ground.

 

If the base of the tree was decayed to a point a decent felling cut could not be made, felling at 20 feet on spikes is surely not the answer.

 

Its beyond me! Life is too short to run those sort of needless risks IMO.

[18 stoner]

I do high fells quite often for the same reason as Peter.

 

To fit a tree into a space that it wouldn't otherwise fit.

 

That is acceptable and common practice.

 

This guy does this as a preference though:bird:

[Peter]

Agreed, which is why I dont shout about it on a public forum.

 

What I choose to do in order to get the job done is down to me, some of those techniques and practises I would never recommend to a less experienced climber/cutter.

[Husqvarna King]

The first cut did look like a normal bore/release but with too much "trigger" left, I was told that it is safer to cut a horizontal cut below the bore cut as a trigger rather than the angled 45 degree downwards cut as i was shown on my NPTC nearly 10 years ago. I was informed that a horizontal cut as a trigger below the bore cut took away a risk of the saw trapping, and if i were on spikes i wouldnt want the saw to trap, I use the Bore/release no end of times in the woods, mainly on leaners to take the tension out and reduce the risk of a barber chair:thumbup1:

[Dean Lofthouse]

I dont understand people putting pressure on an upright tree anyway.

 

I sometimes put pressure on a Sycamore slight backleaners using one of those stretchy kinetic tow straps just to keep the pull going and keep the momentum going because of their brittle nature. You can guage how much pressure is on with the elastic line better and you dont put on a dangerous amnount.

 

I've seen far too many felling vids putting on the pressure, with a vehicle, before the hinge has been formed properly

[Dean Lofthouse]

The only thing I can see as a reason for going below is to ensure the saw isn't yanked away in the cut

[scotspine1]

People have died attempting bore and release cuts when climbing, the stem can barberchair in reverse down the stem then as it splits away the top breaks out and the climber gets flipped off with the top. This can happen before the release cut is made, it can happen half way through the bore cut.

[Mark Bolam]

Looking at the vid again, I think most of the trees were fellable from the ground or easy cut and drop quick dismantles.

 

I doubt I will be risking my life to save a few shrubs from getting crushed anytime soon.

 

When it goes wrong for him, it will go very badly wrong indeed....

[Dean Lofthouse]

People have died attempting bore and release cuts when climbing, the stem can barberchair in reverse down the stem then as it splits away the top breaks out and the climber gets flipped off with the top. This can happen before the release cut is made, it can happen half way through the bore cut.

 

On heavy leaners