Honda GX390

[Ty Korrigan]

I think I've been engaging in bellendery and confused the two measurements on the feeler gauges.

So with a cool head I reset the valves cold then ran it up and reset them warm.

It now runs better but lots of resistance on starting, to the point of snatching the starter cord.

Tick over still a little high with it coughing at times.

 

Edited August 16 by Ty Korrigan

[Mick Dempsey]

tbh, I’m impressed at you changing the head gasket.

A few years ago you couldn’t change the oil filter on your chipper.

I changed the H gasket on my grinder recently, admittedly with the guidance of my brother on FaceTime periodically, it’s not that easy for guys like us.
Chapeau Stu!

[topchippyles]

28 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

tbh, I’m impressed at you changing the head gasket.

A few years ago you couldn’t change the oil filter on your chipper.

I changed the H gasket on my grinder recently, admittedly with the guidance of my brother on FaceTime periodically, it’s not that easy for guys like us.
Chapeau Stu!

I struggle to put my shoes on some days Mick 😀

[tree-fancier123]

5 hours ago, Ty Korrigan said:

So with a cool head I reset the valves cold then ran it up and reset them warm.

the Honda information sheet I linked to doesn't say about reseting the gaps when warm, it just says

If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows: a. Hold the rocker arm pivot and loosen the rocker arm pivot lock nut. b. Turn the rocker arm pivot to obtain the specified clearance. c. Retighten the rocker arm pivot lock nut while holding the rocker arm pivot. TORQUE: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 7 lbt·ft) d. Recheck valve clearance after tightening the rocker arm pivot lock nut.

Not sure if this reseting on a warm engine is the right thing to do?

Anyway, at least it's running.

[Ty Korrigan]

47 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

tbh, I’m impressed at you changing the head gasket.

A few years ago you couldn’t change the oil filter on your chipper.

I changed the H gasket on my grinder recently, admittedly with the guidance of my brother on FaceTime periodically, it’s not that easy for guys like us.
Chapeau Stu!

 

Cheers Mick,

Was that the Quad chip back in 2012?

 The oil filter in a nightmare place above the slewring.

It required a home-made 'MouseTrap game' style chute for the oil made from water bottles.

I failed every time to cleanly change the oil.

The first oil change was done by the dealer who too failed and charged us €80 for steam cleaning on top.

Last week I changed the Iveco radiator!

I bought one on offer from AutoDoc for a mere €80 !

Took me under 3 hours not rushing.

I cheated a little and didn't reinstall the plastic McGuff surrounding the radiator.

Saved myself between €600/€900 plus vat

Cheapest quote was a mobile mechanic, highest a verbal quote from Iveco main dealer.

 

 

 

[Ty Korrigan]

20 minutes ago, tree-fancier123 said:

the Honda information sheet I linked to doesn't say about reseting the gaps when warm, it just says

If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows: a. Hold the rocker arm pivot and loosen the rocker arm pivot lock nut. b. Turn the rocker arm pivot to obtain the specified clearance. c. Retighten the rocker arm pivot lock nut while holding the rocker arm pivot. TORQUE: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 7 lbt·ft) d. Recheck valve clearance after tightening the rocker arm pivot lock nut.

Not sure if this reseting on a warm engine is the right thing to do?

Anyway, at least it's running.

I used your guide thanks but the resetting warm was advice I read elsewhere.

Anyway, I'm going to remeasure the gaps once I've received the fresh rocker cover rubber seal which leaks a little.

   Thanks for posting that guide.

 

[Ty Korrigan]

Back again.

 I had done 2hrs30min since 'repairing' the engine.

The last stump was on a slope and the machine cut out 3 times so I checked the oil 'Oy Vey, Allah Akbar, Mon Dieu and FFS !' to cover all bases...

Oil level low.

It took 500ml

Ran it up again to finish the last stump but it lacked power and the stump being very fibrous made for a dismal hour or so.

Back home, checked the valve clearances and was surprised to find them well out yet the nuts are tight.

I've reset the valves, it runs fine but now light but obvious dark smoke when throttle opened.

Oil vapour from valve cover is inside the part between carb and air filter.

So I think I will change the engine and strip the old one down this Winter and earn my Boy Scouts tinkering badge.

Meanwhile, I'd like to replace the engine with an electric start version.

I see an option with oil bath filter.

Is this worthwhile or even practical on a grinder?

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