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Posted
1 minute ago, manco said:

no youre talking shit

ive used cheaper mineral oils in my saws and they mank up the oiling system over time

if stihl have spent time and money messing with oil and making it semi synthetic then it stands to reason theyve done something to improve it from what it started as.

and again youre wrong, cos next ill be saying you smell of wee. hahahaha

Yes, Stihl have spent lots on their oil to make it all green and pleasant, as a big company they do the whole corporate responsibility thing, a oil manufacturer is just that.

 

Never had a oil problem with any brand but I do buy 20/25 litres 

 

If you want to admit to smelling of elderberries that's upto you.

Posted
Just now, manco said:

so they made it "pleasant" and made it "do what they want"

therefore it will be better than how it started out or some stuff they didnt mess with.

and therefore is going to be better to use in the saw.

 

i fart in your general direction

Shall we put is nicely, Stihl buy a more expensive oil add a load of additives to make it stable and more sticky.

 

Oil manufacturers start with the same basic oil they supply to Stihl but probably less refined so cheaper and add the same additives which aren't a guarded secret.

 

YMMV as they say, I make a 261 last about ten years doing 10-15 hours a week on the log pile so it can't all bad oil.

 

Bring out the siege rabbit!.

Posted
1 hour ago, manco said:

 

do they make it better? yes. case closed.

now go away or I shall taunt you a second time

Do you buy Stihl spark plugs cos they're betterer?.

 

I will admit the two stoke oil is better tho, swings and roundabouts and all that.

 

Help, help I'm being repressed!.

Posted
17 hours ago, GarethM said:

Do you buy Stihl spark plugs cos they're betterer?.

 

I will admit the two stoke oil is better tho, swings and roundabouts and all that.

 

Help, help I'm being repressed!.

Is it better for saws as well as swings and roundabouts ? I buy whatever chain oil is on offer but not veggie as my saws stand about and that stuff attracts mice as well as congealing in the tank.

Posted

Ive posted here about this but Ive had a lot of bar oiling problems recently on older Stihl chainsaws with Stihl bars.  These are professional saws with adjustable oilers that I have set to max.  I've done all the usual problem solving, cleaning out the tank, lines and pump etc. but ultimately I had to open up the oiler holes on the bar as they weren't aligning properly.  Bar oiling problems are a right pain and a good way to wreak bars.  I found that thinning the oil with diesel was helpful.

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Posted

Reading the last page about how most oils are from the same base with scientifically experimented and calculated additives in to make it do the right stuff and then "Yeah, but, I just bung diesel in it to make it work right"

Posted
14 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Reading the last page about how most oils are from the same base with scientifically experimented and calculated additives in to make it do the right stuff and then "Yeah, but, I just bung diesel in it to make it work right"

Or just buy summer/thinner chain oil, probably cheaper and better all round.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yea but once I'd bought 25l and used some, it was too late and I'd rather rescue it with diesel.  I don't think this affects the additives. 

 

My take on bar oil is that the base oil is one massive compromise - too thick and it will bung up the pipes and too light and it will fling off the bar.  The additives give it a little extra boost so that it has increased ability to stick to the bar nose for a given viscosity. Also as described above an adjustable oiler helps to correct for any system problems or allow you to get away with thinner oil.

 

 

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