Chain 'spins' on for a while, no throttle

[jimug]

Hi all, first post after years of lurking. Not a pro, always regret never making the switch from IT to arb work when I was young enough and didn't have so many responsibilities. 

Anyway. I use a Husky 135 as much as I can for tidying up a small woodland I have access to and clearing any limbs that come down etc. Just recently I've noticed that the chain doesn't stop very soon when I release the throttle. I can't remember if it ever came to an immediate stop but sometimes now I really notice it seeming to 'freewheel' for ages. I'm fairly confident the chain tension isn't too loose, although I may have over slackened it having had it a bit tight after turning the bar over and things getting a tad hot.

Any suggestions gratefully appreciated!

[GarethM]

Clutch springs are loose, be easier just to replace the whole assembly if it's not been done before.

[Muddy42]

As above, if its just after use, check the idle screw if the chain is running the whole time.  Chain tension is a separate issue, which I think of as a delicate and constant battle between tight and hot or too loose and the risk of throwing a chain.

 

Don't spend too much money fixing an old Husky 135, I've been there and its not worth it.

[jimug]

Thanks both. Clutch has never been touched so I'll have a look at the spring. Idle is fine, from start and once the chain is stopped it doesn't creep or run - this issue is simply that the chain wants to keep moving until it stops under its own inertia after a cut. 

[GarethM]

The spring keeps the clutch disconnected until it reaches a certain level when centrifugal force to overcome the spring tension to stretch and the clutch engages.

 

Worn spring means it's stretched too much, allowing it to engage at low speed.

[adw]

3 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

As above, if its just after use, check the idle screw if the chain is running the whole time.  Chain tension is a separate issue, which I think of as a delicate and constant battle between tight and hot or too loose and the risk of throwing a chain.

 

Don't spend too much money fixing an old Husky 135, I've been there and its not worth it.

For the sake of a clutch spring, or clutch bearing its well worth spending a bit on.

[Dan Maynard]

Is it manual carb? Could it be worn in and just need the idle speed knocking down a touch back to spec? Have a good clean round the carb,linkages etc too and check throttle not being held by sawdust.

[Mick Dempsey]

Clutch springs, easily replaced.

[Rich Rule]

Clutch springs were the first thing that came to my mind.

 

Once they are changed, if the problem persists then look at the carb and idle settings.

[adw]

Single spring clutch, same as the one used on many of the entry level saws.

spring 530094188

Clutch removal tool 530031112

Do not try to tap the clutch legs to remove the clutch, they are a sintered material and will snap off, you need to use the tool with a 19mm spanner to jar the clutch off clockwise.