Husqvarna 226 HS99 Hedge Cutter Blade Play

[Dravidham]

Hi,

 

I’m  new to the forum and congratulations on having such a great site.

 

I own the above Husky model, and just wanted to ask some advice about the blades please.

 

if I move the blades left to right by hand (not forwards and backwards), I would say that there’s about 1-2 mm play in movement.

 

is this normal or should I be fixing that? - how is that best fixed?

 

Also, I plan to sharpen the blades in advance of next usage as they are a little blunt - what’s the best way for a single sided blade like this - blade removal or sharpen whilst on the machine?

 

many thanks in advance,

 

Dave.

[Stubby]

8 hours ago, Dravidham said:

Hi,

 

I’m  new to the forum and congratulations on having such a great site.

 

I own the above Husky model, and just wanted to ask some advice about the blades please.

 

if I move the blades left to right by hand (not forwards and backwards), I would say that there’s about 1-2 mm play in movement.

 

is this normal or should I be fixing that? - how is that best fixed?

 

Also, I plan to sharpen the blades in advance of next usage as they are a little blunt - what’s the best way for a single sided blade like this - blade removal or sharpen whilst on the machine?

 

many thanks in advance,

 

Dave.

@adw

[spudulike]

Yup ADW is the man on Husqvarna but on sharpening...you can do a relatively good job, on the machine with a dremel and a diamond grinding bit. The other option is stripping the blades off and using a file if you have a lot of wear, a good flat file and know what you are doing. 

Do NOT use an angle grinder!!!!

[pleasant]

Yup....and only sharpen on the upper side, not lower. Any burring on the underside should just be gently filed away to clean it up only...not sharpen .

 

Oh, and use a wire brush or something similar on your dremel to clean the crud off the teeth first. Leaving gum and varnish on them simply attracts more of the same and then you get a snowball effect and the blades can slow, can lift so you have a gap between them and can also seize completely if stored

Edited October 15, 2022 by pleasant

[Dan Maynard]

I give the blades on mine a tickle with a file on the machine, need to file all the ones you can get and then start it, blip the throttle until the other side of teeth comes open.

[Kimosabi]

23 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

I give the blades on mine a tickle with a file on the machine, need to file all the ones you can get and then start it, blip the throttle until the other side of teeth comes open.

 

[adw]

The 226hs was a badged engineered machine, I believe from Zenoah, the blades are not adjustable, so they have small square spacer blocks to stop the blades jamming when the fixing bolts are fully tightened, due to this the square blocks, securing screws or blades can wear allowing sideways movement of the blades, there will always be an amount of side movement due to tolerance, as for sharpening all good advise from other members, if you chose to remove the blades to sharpen do not lose any of the square blocks, and make sure they are all aligned when re assembly, or the blades will clamp together and not move.

[Dravidham]

Thanks to all of you for you valuable advice.

 

This cutter is a very good machine for me. It’s a low use machine (just for my own garden).

 

 

@adw are there specific torque settings for these blades? - I have plenty of loctite and a decent torque wrench.

 

…. Nothing definitive in that regard on ‘reliable google’

 

so if you could offer any advice there, it would be much appreciated.

 

[adw]

Unfortunately there are no set torque figures for the nuts, however the securing nuts and bolts pull up solid due to the spacer blocks between the blades, so just tight.