Woodland Planting Advice

[Stere]

But......

 

With regards to tree spacing/ nurse crop -  its once you get canopy closure/miro climate  & shelter from wind and the grass is supressed is when trees really seem to increase there growth rate.

 

So  a denser planting/ nurse crop achives this quicker  so gives  faster establishing woodland......

 

Might be less of an issue on that site cheshire where there is probaby less wind than other most more exposed locations, and if grass in surpressed really well for several yrs round trees.

 

 

 

Local estate has planted a few 1000's of broaddleaf mix all in tubes. Extra windage of tubes & probably not staked well enough/ also wet ground , has resulted after storm arwen etc in all the 1000's  trees being at at   45% angle now...

 

 

[Oly1]

4 hours ago, timberonabike said:

All good ideas put forward so far. Just to fling more ideas out there; 

 

Could plant north west side of the blue service as a woodland and the south east side as an orchard. This would be less imposing around the northerly building as well as allowing you to keep an element of the flower meadow and fruit trees that will benefit pollinators with their blossom and you with apples for cider. Could probably find someone to mob graze it at the end of the summer to remove the grass growth once everything has gone to seed? Would need to guard the fruit trees for first few years against stock.

 

As for the woodland, look at those around you for what grows well, probably wouldn't pick more than half a dozen varieties as it is a small site. Being a small site it may be too small to attract grant funding. Planting whips will be easier and the trees generally establish better, just spend some time on the prep and initial care to get them away. Birch will help give some instant effect and draw up other trees, treat it as a nurse crop and remove after 15 years or so to leave other trees go and start to create some openings and mixed layers. Makes a good firewood harvest too.

Consider if you want/need a firewood source and something that will coppice well and locate it where you won't batter the rest of your good work whilst you harvest it.

I really like this adaptive approach...something to start adding to the plan.  What would you recommend in terms of prep and initial care in particular?  Mulch (type?), spraying off, mow/strimming etc?  We try not to spray if it can be avoided at all

 

2 hours ago, Stere said:

But......

 

With regards to tree spacing/ nurse crop -  its once you get canopy closure/miro climate  & shelter from wind and the grass is supressed is when trees really seem to increase there growth rate.

 

So  a denser planting/ nurse crop achives this quicker  so gives  faster establishing woodland......

 

Might be less of an issue on that site cheshire where there is probaby less wind than other most more exposed locations, and if grass in surpressed really well for several yrs round trees.

 

Local estate has planted a few 1000's of broaddleaf mix all in tubes. Extra windage of tubes & probably not staked well enough/ also wet ground , has resulted after storm arwen etc in all the 1000's  trees being at at   45% angle now...

 

 

Again, what would you recommend for the grass suppression? Mulch (type?), spraying off, mow/strimming etc?  We try not to spray if it can be avoided at all

[Khriss]

Def get well rotted woodchip in fr mulching, makes a lot of difference. Generally i spray grass off in strips, with roundup. Would plan carefully where yr big trees want to be then go fr om there. Could be a mild Spring,  K

[Oly1]

12 hours ago, Khriss said:

Def get well rotted woodchip in fr mulching, makes a lot of difference. Generally i spray grass off in strips, with roundup. Would plan carefully where yr big trees want to be then go fr om there. Could be a mild Spring,  K

Excuse the ignorance, but why does it have to be well rotted woodchip? I can get fresh relatively easily. 

[DanHorrich87]

2 minutes ago, Oly1 said:

Excuse the ignorance, but why does it have to be well rotted woodchip? I can get fresh relatively easily. 

Moisture retention. Fresh chip absorbs more water and leaches nutrients from the soil.

[Stere]

I think thats its abit of an overstated concern that it robs  nitrogen from soil as it decomposes. Think that the the benefit would still outweigh any small negatives even if chip is fresh....?

 

Also ramial chip is probably better due to the green brown ratio....

 

Problem with chip is you will ideally need tonnes and tonnes of the stuff and to replenish.  Brown cardboard under the chip can help abit also.

 

Anyone used hessian or  bio plastic mulch mats  they seem very expensive?

 

Heard wool works quite well and there was a few farms here were  giving it away for free as the price is so low....

 

 

 

[timberonabike]

In terms of prep, if you aren't keen to spray, you want to reduce competition for the tree whip, so any combination of turf lifting/rotivating and mulching method. I would avoid any individial guarding if possible.

Planting in rows or a grid will make it easier in the first few years to control around the trees until they are taller, particularly an issue in bracken and bramble that will swamp and squash young trees. A formal pattern will also make it easier to spot losses if replacements are needed. Randomise your species as they go in and over the years as you thin the block it will look less regimented.

Don't know what the weather is like your way, but trees need to be in the ground before the sap is moving and trees are budding.

You could probably get some chip for mulch off someone on here and just leave it in a corner to rot until you are ready for it.

[DanHorrich87]

1 hour ago, Stere said:

I think thats its abit of an overstated concern that it robs  nitrogen from soil as it decomposes. Think that the the benefit would still outweigh any small negatives even if chip is fresh....?

 

Also ramial chip is probably better due to the green brown ratio....

 

Problem with chip is you will ideally need tonnes and tonnes of the stuff and to replenish.  Brown cardboard under the chip can help abit also.

 

Anyone used hessian or  bio plastic mulch mats  they seem very expensive?

 

Heard wool works quite well and there was a few farms here were  giving it away for free as the price is so low....

 

 

 

Nitrogen only significantly present after some clovers, fertilisers etc. Too much and you get nitro burn when leaves on saplings turn red.

 

As Kriss says, mulch is key for good establishment. Especially if you're not there everyday.

 

Trace elements are leached up from soil by fresh woodchip. Yes. It'll suppress weed growth as will cardboard fleece etc. Planting young trees means they need watering in.

 

Mulch retains moisture so roots can grow. Again Kriss mentions poss dry spring.

Edited January 5, 2022 by DanHorrich87

[dumper]

If you have time remove the turf 50mm deep for a metre round each tree and replace with brown card board and mulch 

if you can get lots of mulch spread it over the planting areas before planting then notch through I have had good results on Sandy free draining soils doing it this way

[Khriss]

7 hours ago, Oly1 said:

Excuse the ignorance, but why does it have to be well rotted woodchip? I can get fresh relatively easily. 

Its the funga mycelium content you want , decaying woody material is the woodland food . Netflix Fantastic Fungi to see it in action . K