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Oly1

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Everything posted by Oly1

  1. Yep Hylomar blue is what I used
  2. It'd be too tight for tractors so it'd still be cut with my mower, scythe or strimmer
  3. We're now thinking more along the lines of agro-forestry, making the most of the wildflower hay meadow we already have, so wider parkland/orchard style spaced trees. Plenty of logpiles etc too
  4. Any glaring issues with the below? Total ~120 trees set at 4m spacing Species Number Beech 2 Aspen (Poplar) 3 SweetChestnut 2 Hazel 10 Birch Downy 15 Rowan 20 Field Maple 25 Apple 3 Plum 3 Lime (small leaf) 5 Cherry (Bird) 15 Hornbeam 5 Oak 10
  5. I've never had a problem with the rollers wearing down yet I must admit. Just annoying that it can't be used on a stihl chain! That said, looking at it more closely, it's for a H30 chain - which I think was the 1.3mm pixel chain, rather than the larger H25 1.5mm chain 🙄
  6. I seem to be able to use my husqvarna roller file guide on Husqvarna chains, but not Stihl (it doesn't slip over the links), is this normal? Can I just widen the gaps to accommodate the wider links or will this change the file angle?
  7. I've found the below from the web. Can anyone tell me average growth rates of each species please? Ultimate height and spread Beech 40m x 20 m Oak 10m x 20m Field Maple 12m x 8m Alder 17m x 6m Small Leaved Lime 9m x 6m Hornbeam 9m x 6m Rowan 10m x 3m Hazel 4m x 3m
  8. To be honest, in the last 24hrs I'm starting to think the same way! I am aware that the wildflower meadow is really valuable, BUT in the next 5 to 10 years I may struggle to find anyone to cut and take the hay. It's simply too small for most contractors. So, I'm thinking now about planting a few big specimen trees that won't interfere with the hay cutting too much, but will over time grow and start suppressing the grass (we get 120 small bales from 1.5 acres that has had zero input and grazing for nearly a decade!). That way when the hobbyist hay guys do give up its not too hard for me to manage and/or increase the tree planting/regen at that point. Hopefully a few, well spaced, big trees, with raised canopies will not worry the owls too much too.
  9. Excuse the ignorance, but why does it have to be well rotted woodchip? I can get fresh relatively easily.
  10. I really like this adaptive approach...something to start adding to the plan. What would you recommend in terms of prep and initial care in particular? Mulch (type?), spraying off, mow/strimming etc? We try not to spray if it can be avoided at all Again, what would you recommend for the grass suppression? Mulch (type?), spraying off, mow/strimming etc? We try not to spray if it can be avoided at all
  11. Great info & advice thanks. We've already run half as a CL, good, but a tie. This'll just be for us. Definately not a Xmas tree farm! 😄
  12. Has anyone got a tree size diagram for the native trees I am looking at to give me an idea of sizes, root depths and widths? I am sure I have seen one on Twitter but can't find it now. It looks a like this, but for native trees
  13. Yes, we're not going anywhere. Is Aspen native to the UK? And would it suit our soils?
  14. Sadly a pond isn't going to be an option with our soil, unless we were to import a load of clay or plastic line it
  15. Well I've done this, plus put some between the hose and the casing as advised, filled the oil tank (not run it yet) but 6 hours later and all is still dry 🤞😬👏
  16. I'm sorry to hear that, I hope its not been too disruptive a Xmas. I'll discuss what we have found from the above so far with my wife and then give you a call in the coming days/week if that's OK? If you could PM me your number that would be great. Thanks again all for the input so far...feel free to wade in and add to the knowledge bank...its all great info!!
  17. Lots of great advice there, many thanks!! Loving the ideas of rides, open areas, but then areas of denser understory and multi-height trees too. The 5m strip around the edge and through the centre is a great idea, for wildlife, us to walk, provide access, but also to keep away from the services. On this list so far then is Oak Field maple Birch Hawthorn Sloe/blackthorn? (Can be invasive, suckering) Sycamore? Beech Lime? Odd extra tree like cherry or wild pear, apple, plum, cobnuts? Sweet chestnut to coppice? This far north? Also disease? Hazel Red is ground source heat pump loop. Blue is an electric cable Many thanks, such a chat may come in very handy It's more a case of managed rewilding I guess! We already enjoy the butterfly and bee life we attract through the hay meadow and have bats in the oaks too. We also do already have large log piles that we have in the field margins. And there will be rides, open areas of the woodland too. The field is partly fenced (old pig netting well stuck into the hedges!) which I think leads to very few predators passing through on the trail cameras, but that said badgers and the foxes are so hard hit around here by the hunt I don't worry too much about them - if anything a bit of refuge may be welcomed in some ways!
  18. Morning All, I was hoping for some woodland planting advice, as our local Wildlife Trust aren't getting back to us, and you guys probably know more anyway! We have 1.5acres that we have as wildflower hay meadow, but with fewer folk about willing to take the hay I'm thinking about planting it up as a native mixed woodland. We don't put livestock on at all. No deer. Rabbits aren't an issue. Soil is very fertile, free draining, South Cheshire sandy loam. Area is 1.5acres. Flat, elevated from surrounding roads and land. Gets plenty of sun except top right (seasonally shaded from neighbouring oak tree to the south) Constraints: Underground services at 1.2m deep shown in red and blue Barn owls nest in a box on our Oak tree shown in yellow Access is via field gate at the bottom right (south east) on the plan below. Ideally it needs to be locally native, if not UK native, low density enough to not effect the barn owls, roots must avoid the services. Of course...ideally we'd like it to be established (or at least in its way, starting to look like a woodland) within ten years. The aim of the woodland is purely for our enjoyment and widlife. What species should we be thinking about? Locally we have oak, field maple, birch...although I am unsure whether the second is locally native. How far from services do we need to keep each type of tree? What spacing should we have between trees? Do we buy trees already 6ft or higher (pros/cons - will these get established faster but as being older trees are they more susceptible to first year failure)? We have about 20 oak saplings 1ft tall from our existing 3 mature oaks. Where's good to get trees? We are aware of lots of free trees on offer at the moment, but they are tiny and are wanting high density...so we are thinking we are likely to have to buy trees? Is it best that we aim for a mixed age woodland that succeeds and develop? (so buy 6ft birch trees, that may establish first, but then taken over by young oaks, etc) Are there any other questions we should be asking? All advice would be greatly appreciated 👍
  19. Mine is just the double hole version
  20. Sounds like this may be the way to go Watch from 6:05 https://youtu.be/nnMriFIwGyw
  21. That's a good idea but atmospheric pressure (and as the saw cools) changes all the time. Hmmm. I was reading about it possibly being the oil tank vent, if blocked can allow an increase in pressure in the tank thereby pushing oil out of the delivery hose. I'm not sure how to check it's not blocked on the inside though? It's this part Valve for Husqvarna 371K, 340, 340E, 345, 345E, 350, 351 Chainsaws - 537 04 03-01 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Valve Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 537 04 03-01 Suitable for the... See photo below of it on mine, but not sure how to get it out without splitting the saw. Tried the new hose. Really don't want to glue/bodge it is possible. Hmm. I thought the same, but it's now also on Stihl chain oil which I've not had a problem with on my previous saw. The oiler is on its lowest setting. If anything its not flinging like i am used to, but it was running down the outside of the bar too!
  22. Hi, I recently bought a used Husqvarna 353 (which I believe is essentially a 346xp with different cylinder design) on the basis of doesn't have the engine management system etc of new saws to go wrong. I'm very happy with the saw, but it seems to drip oil more than I'm used to... I'm aware that after use you often get oil draining from the bar and behind the guide plate, but this seemed a bit more excessive. So as a precaution I replaced the oil pick up tube and guide plate. After test running it seemed to drop less oil but it was still more than I expected so I drained the oil tank and it stopped pretty quick. Refill the oil tank, but not run the saw and it drips as the three photos below. Some say that an amount of oil dripping is normal. Others drain the tank every time. Is the oil dropping I've described above reasonable? I'm wondering if I'll continue to chase my tail on this and whether I should either accept it, or just bite the bullet and get a new 550xp...but then I'd be gutted if it did the same anyway...so advice/experiences from other husky owners would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Oly

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