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Posted

I find it hard to understand how you cannot get parts for older stihl saws. Also, if you have just got rid of an old 020 because you are finding it hard to get parts, why on earth are you considering buying another old saw to replace it with? It seems nonsensical, as by your reckoning if anything goes wrong with it you will be stuck for parts:confused1: I have had 2 200s since they changed over, and had no problems with them at all. Before that i had 2 second hand 020's (i wasnt climbing very much in them days) which both had loads of little issues due to the age of them, even though they both seemed immaculate...And at around £400 for a new saw i cant see its worth getting a second hand potential PITA.

 

But thats just a confused opinion:lol:

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Posted

my 200t runs a 020 carb, carb problem solved :) my 020 is uber reliable. chain brake handles are rubbish on all 020s/200ts-when my 200t handle first broke, i swapped it for an 020, that broke too!

 

i dont think people give 020/200t's enough credit tbh, considering the abuse they get, dusty conditions, lack of maintenance. think of the hours they clock up in a year, 500 easily? working life of 2 year minimum? not many £400 2 stroke machines would last 1000 hours without mishap!

Posted
my 200t runs a 020 carb, carb problem solved :)

 

Done that with one of mine too.

 

Spent a while faffing about with new diapragms, adjusting the tune etc, and it never just ran right.

 

Bought a brand new old model carb and robbed the side casing from an old saw, as the carb screw holes are not in the same place.

 

Runs like new. :thumbup1:

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I'm having a few running issues with 2006 200t, I suspect it to be the usual carb problem.

My question is;

Are all 020t/200t carbs interchangeable? If so, can I get hold of a new 020t carb? Or would a new/latest 200t carb be better?

Posted

The main differences I have come accross are

 

1) the transfer port in the MS200 has a divider running down it and on the 020, the port is not split - the parts are interchangeable.

 

2) the 020 has screw caps, the 200 has flippy caps

 

3) the recoil cover on the MS200 is circular - 020 is more rectangular

 

4) The 020 clutch cover has a built in chainbrake and is a slightly different construction but is interchangeable.

 

5) The breathers are different - the 020 has a rubber valve and fibre insert and the 200 has a rubber tube and external valve design.

 

6) The MS200 carb differs from the 020 although they look interchangeable and the rubber insert can differ from model to model.

 

Can't say I have noticed a great difference between build quality between the two

Posted

I have had a number of both saws, they all lasted two or so years of daily use before

giving up, they have all been without exception absolutely brilliant. second hand small saws are probably on their way home.imho you should buy a new 200t ,

Posted

I've used the old old 020, the 020T and the MS200T. The 200's run far better in cold conditions than the others. As for the 200's carb problems there is a little gaget in the carbs called a pump piston and as i understand it when you throttle up it gives an extra boost of petrol and these seem to wear (sometimes only after a short while) and need replacing.

Approx. £10 to buy, 5mins to fit (now i've got the hang of it). They go behind the little round brass gromet type thing on the engine side of the carb. Anyone need help message me, i'd be pleased to talk you through it. I've been told that when this problem first came to light Stihl were a bit slow to talk about it even to their dealers.

Posted

I bought a brand new, old 020 carb years ago and swap it over when the ms200t's fail or play up or to check if its a carb issue with a dodgy saw.

 

Cant remember where I bought it from, it was a carb importer/dealer rather than a Stihl dealer.

 

I had to modify the filter plate as the old carb doesnt have a compensator on it.

 

Oh, and its never needed cleaning out in about 5 years.:001_smile:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Many thanks for all the advice guys.

There is a seller on eBay that will repair a carb of said problem, set it up on a working saw and post it back for £25. Does that sound reasonable? Does anyone know who it is? Are they on here?

I probably could do it myself, but with a carb kit costing £10-£15 and the risk of eFing it up a loosing some tiny component and not even realising...

I've stripped the chain brake assembly and recoil assembly so far, think I'll advance to scary stuff like carbs and piston rings at a later date!

Posted

You can't be sure what the guy does, probably a clean up, reset, put it on a saw and set it up then send it back, the problem being that the max revs running of the saw will be at factory carb setting or correct for his saw but not at optimum for yours that can only be set with a tach on the machine the carb is from.

 

You may get the carb sorted this way or at least as close as you can get by mail

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