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chain sharpening


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hi, am after some advice, am thinking of getting a bar mounted chain sharpening kit are they any good?? can sharpen with normal file and handle but seem to get blunt quickly so come across this equipment and sounds like a good thing. thanks

 

stick to cutting timber thats what ther designed for & not the cliants garden ,you will see a vast improvement ,:biggrin:

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Exactly the same here mate, they used to hate me for it! lol

 

Bet your grandad could teach you a thing or two about sharpening chains

hahaa yeah well when i first started using saws with him, i had a file gauge from college and he started moaning at me saying you'll have to learn how to do it free hand someday, so i did :001_tongue:

 

haha yeah hes always telling me bout how chains never used to be like they are today

 

800px-Scratcher-1.JPG

 

800px-Scratcher-2.JPG

 

Think there some of this in our shed, i'll have a look some time :thumbup:

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think would have a job cutting clients garden with a firewood processor! :001_tt2: i do use a chainsaw just cut the timber up so can lift it onto machine but cut so far then roll over and finish it off. rarely cut wood near to ground.

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think would have a job cutting clients garden with a firewood processor! :001_tt2: i do use a chainsaw just cut the timber up so can lift it onto machine but cut so far then roll over and finish it off. rarely cut wood near to ground.

 

Has the timber been skidded or winched out of a woodland area? If it is your chain probably stay sharp so long because of mud and grit on the wood.

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the wood was skidded out but nearly 2 years ago but the wood looks clean but suppose will be traces of it, wouldnt take much to blunt it would it??

its a husky and oregon chain.

 

Takes hardly anything to blunt a saw mate, and its better to put 2/3 strokes every now and again instead of waiting for it to blunt completly, your only talking about 2mins to touch up 18inch guide bar

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Hi U1000

 

have you been trained to mainain your saw??? i ask as your questions are those that usuallr arise from people who have not been shown how to get the right info for the sharpening.

 

as for file guides, interesting point, that has become corrupted over the years, there is no 'you must use a guide to sharpen' ruke in NPTC lantra, edexcel etc.

 

what the rule is is you must get top and side plate angles gorrect, internal lay of the cytter correct, must not damage the tie straps, and must get depth gauges to the correct height.

 

if you do all ot that the ting will cut. assessors cheak angles tooth lengths etc, so the easiest way for aninexperanced person to be consistant with that is with a file guide, but it is not mandotory.

 

as to your chain going blunt quickly i see you have been asked if your timber is clean and away from the floor but

 

what condition is your bar in

is your machine oiling correctly

and are you using a quality chain

 

i had some carlton stuff once as it was cheeeeep

 

worst chain i ever used blunted too quick

 

also as a though if you are cutting 2 year old hard wood and some pines are you using a chisel or a semi chain, with hard seasoned wood you will loos the working edge soo quick and semi would suit you better

 

just soem thoughts

 

kev

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