Joining ripping chains

[ucoulddoit]

I’ve two ripping chains for a 20 inch bar which I used when I started milling with a small log mill. But they haven’t been used for years as I upgraded to a 28 inch bar in an Alaskan mill with a Stihl 661. Both had only moderate use and were professionally reground after the last batch of milling they were used for, and the teeth are now about 8.5mm long on one chain and 9mm on the other. So, they have a fair bit of life left in them. Just wondered if joining them to make up a longer chain to fit the 28 inch bar would be OK? If OK in principle, would it be advisable to have the longer chain reground so that all the teeth are the same length? Probably not much of a cost saving compared to buying a new Granberg ripping chain, but it seems a shame to leave them soaking in a tub of oil if they could be used again.

 

Andrew

[trigger_andy]

4 minutes ago, ucoulddoit said:

I’ve two ripping chains for a 20 inch bar which I used when I started milling with a small log mill. But they haven’t been used for years as I upgraded to a 28 inch bar in an Alaskan mill with a Stihl 661. Both had only moderate use and were professionally reground after the last batch of milling they were used for, and the teeth are now about 8.5mm long on one chain and 9mm on the other. So, they have a fair bit of life left in them. Just wondered if joining them to make up a longer chain to fit the 28 inch bar would be OK? If OK in principle, would it be advisable to have the longer chain reground so that all the teeth are the same length? Probably not much of a cost saving compared to buying a new Granberg ripping chain, but it seems a shame to leave them soaking in a tub of oil if they could be used again.

 

Andrew

Seems waaaay to much work. Do you have the means to make and break chains? If not then you'll need to not only buy the links but pay someone to do it then bugger up one of the chains to match the other. 

 

Buy a new 28" chain and either save the 20" ones for a rainy day or flog them and save yourself a world of needless grief.

 

What does a £28" chain cost? £30? You could not pay me to do all that work for £30.  

 

I must have at least 10 milling chains I dont plan on using again gathering dust.  Lifes to short. 

[topchippyles]

15 minutes ago, ucoulddoit said:

I’ve two ripping chains for a 20 inch bar which I used when I started milling with a small log mill. But they haven’t been used for years as I upgraded to a 28 inch bar in an Alaskan mill with a Stihl 661. Both had only moderate use and were professionally reground after the last batch of milling they were used for, and the teeth are now about 8.5mm long on one chain and 9mm on the other. So, they have a fair bit of life left in them. Just wondered if joining them to make up a longer chain to fit the 28 inch bar would be OK? If OK in principle, would it be advisable to have the longer chain reground so that all the teeth are the same length? Probably not much of a cost saving compared to buying a new Granberg ripping chain, but it seems a shame to leave them soaking in a tub of oil if they could be used again.

 

Andrew

Complete waste of time for the cost of a new chain 

[agg221]

If you still have the bar, I would keep the chains, particularly if you have a mini-mill (the vertical one) or may get one. It's a good length that for squaring up beams or taking edges off logs which are a bit too wide for your mill.

 

If you don't have the bar and won't have a mini-mill, I think it depends on what kit you have. I have the chain breaking/making kit and the Granberg grinder as on long bars you end up needing to take a link out of the chain during its life. I also have spare links. With that kit in place it's 15mins work to make the three necessary breaks and two joints and most of that would be getting out the kit, counting links and putting it away again. I would use all of the 8.5mm chain and add a bit of the 9mm chain. Setting the grinder to the 8.5mm and then sharpening/re-setting would have it sharpened and ready in another 10mins, so under half an hour. I don't earn £60/hr so that would seem like a worthwhile use of time. Without the kit, it depends how much it would cost you as to whether it is worth having it done. I would keep the rest of the chain - useful if you ever hit some nails and need to replace a length where some teeth have been ruined.

 

Alec

Edited April 5, 2021 by agg221

[ucoulddoit]

50 minutes ago, agg221 said:

If you still have the bar, I would keep the chains, particularly if you have a mini-mill (the vertical one) or may get one. It's a good length that for squaring up beams or taking edges off logs which are a bit too wide for your mill.

 

If you don't have the bar and won't have a mini-mill, I think it depends on what kit you have. I have the chain breaking/making kit and the Granberg grinder as on long bars you end up needing to take a link out of the chain during its life. I also have spare links. With that kit in place it's 15mins work to make the three necessary breaks and two joints and most of that would be getting out the kit, counting links and putting it away again. I would use all of the 8.5mm chain and add a bit of the 9mm chain. Setting the grinder to the 8.5mm and then sharpening/re-setting would it sharpened and ready in another 10mins, so under half an hour. I don't earn £60/hr so that would seem like a worthwhile use of time. Without the kit, it depends how much it would cost you as to whether it is worth having it done. I would keep the rest of the chain - useful if you ever hit some nails and need to replace a length where some teeth have been ruined.

 

Alec

Thanks Alec. That's useful advice. I have a mini mill and use a 25 inch bar in a MS391 with a ripping chain which is good to use in conjunction with the Alaskan mill. I still have the 20 inch bar, but only use it for cross cutting now.

 

After a break from milling for a few years, I milled a log at the weekend as a favour for a friend and hit a nail on the second cut......! So I decided it's time to get a second chain for the 28inch bar to avoid another long delay hand filing a damaged chain when out milling. A granberg ripping chain looks like £40 to £50 and is certainly the easy option. But I'd be interested to learn how to modify chains and this seems like an opportunity so I'll look into the kit you mentioned. I see the Malloff book also has advice about splitting and joining chains.

 

Andrew

[Rob D]

I would not get too hung up on the Granberg chains - go for the Oregon or Stihl option as they are easy enough to source, are cheaper and easier to sharpen.

 

The only point that I would question in your post is 'Both had only moderate use and were professionally reground after the last batch of milling'.

 

You need to put yourself in a position to do this sharpening - otherwise you are reliant on other people and it will always cost more. Or use other people but you're going to have to pay more to do so [hence trying to salvage one chain out of 2 is contradicting yourself in my opinion - if you want to save money you need to sharpen professionally and break and mend chains yourself].

 

Breaking and mending info and kit here - and it has the info to do it yourself.

 

 

24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

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24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal. Break, mend and repair your own chains using this kit.

 

[topchippyles]

10 minutes ago, Rob D said:

I would not get too hung up on the Granberg chains - go for the Oregon or Stihl option as they are easy enough to source, are cheaper and easier to sharpen.

 

The only point that I would question in your post is 'Both had only moderate use and were professionally reground after the last batch of milling'.

 

You need to put yourself in a position to do this sharpening - otherwise you are reliant on other people and it will always cost more. Or use other people but you're going to have to pay more to do so [hence trying to salvage one chain out of 2 is contradicting yourself in my opinion - if you want to save money you need to sharpen professionally and break and mend chains yourself].

 

Breaking and mending info and kit here - and it has the info to do it yourself.

 

 

24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

---

24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal. Break, mend and repair your own chains using this kit.

 

Had a look for 404 to 3/8 sprocket adaptor earlier rob on your website and could not see one.I bought a 404 28" GB milling bar off you last summer and looking to use on a 3/8 setup. Got a link and will order one tonight thanks les

Edited April 6, 2021 by topchippyles

[Rob D]

24 minutes ago, topchippyles said:

Had a look for 404 to 3/8 sprocket adaptor earlier rob on your website and could not see one.I bought a 404 28" GB milling bar off you last summer and looking to use on a 3/8 setup. Got a link and will order one tonight thanks les

 

Ah ok are you sure the GB 28" bar is 404 as I am not sure we sell any on 404  only in 3/8... what's the part number on that bar?

[topchippyles]

6 minutes ago, Rob D said:

 

Ah ok are you sure the GB 28" bar is 404 as I am not sure we sell any on 404  only in 3/8... what's the part number on that bar?

I will go and dig it out now rob 

[topchippyles]

10 minutes ago, Rob D said:

 

Ah ok are you sure the GB 28" bar is 404 as I am not sure we sell any on 404  only in 3/8... what's the part number on that bar?

Have messaged you rob link with the bar details that was listed