Advanceable tie in point

[mikedrums69]

Choke off with a running bowline using a ring and clip a second line on. Really easy to untie, advance then re-tie. Or instead of the second line use the tail of your line

[Paddy1000111]

Technically, a Maillon is an open system unless it's done up with a wrench and even then it's questionable. Personally I would rather climb on a ring and a triple or quad lock carabiner than a maillon but neither are "approved". 

Edited March 21, 2021 by Paddy1000111

[Rob Thompson]

Thanks for all the advice folks, I'm taking it on board. Maybe I am guilty of over complicating things, not so unlike me ! So a better option is to base tie, ascend, DdRT to final anchor, set a ring and ring cambium saver ? I see a lot of you seem to achieve an isolated limb anchor from the ground, skills !

Thank you all, Rob

[Rob Thompson]

On 17/03/2021 at 17:46, Joe Newton said:

Okay, I've watched Captain Charisma chat about anchor points for ten minutes. I hope it was worth it.

 

I think that system is a crap idea for a couple of reasons. The first being that a small ring looks like it could easily pass through a large crab/maillon. Fair enough you'd end up with it cinched to the branch but it's not ideal. 

 

Secondly with the maillon and the small ring, it's quite possible with regular unloading and loading of the line as we do when we climb, the dmm ring could potentially rotate the gate open. I'd definitely not trust it at finger tight.

 

Remember that remote anchors can't always be inspected throughout the climb. They need to be fail safe.

 

I typically use an alpine with a pinto or a adjustable cambium saver knot blocked. If I need to advance my tie in from the throwline ill usually just ddrt to where I need to be and set my final anchor from there. 

All good advice, thanks. Is the pinto on a carabiner not a risk ? I'm just trying to find my feet here with this new system. I want to learn the safest way to work. I've binned the idea of the open system anchor, you're right about fail safe.

[Paddy1000111]

If you're trying to make an srt anchor for ascending you are much better off doing as you said. The benefits of srt are speed of ascent and redirects without friction so you're better off base tying, ascending as far as you can, ddrt to your final anchor and then install a cambium saver (I use alpine butterfly and a carabiner through the rope hoop so it's recoverable) then just redirect with a tape sling and a carabiner or you can carry a load of dmm rings and carabiners and use those for redirects. 

 

If I can isolate the limb then I just install the cambium saver with the throwline!

[Joe Newton]

1 hour ago, Rob Thompson said:

All good advice, thanks. Is the pinto on a carabiner not a risk ? I'm just trying to find my feet here with this new system. I want to learn the safest way to work. I've binned the idea of the open system anchor, you're right about fail safe.

I use 4 way crabs for remote applications. One the crab goes through the pinto it gets rotated 180° with the gate orientated away from the stem. It would be practically impossible for the crab to rotate back, let alone for the 4 way lock to rub open. Safest mid line attachable canopy anchor that I know of.

 

The only other option that is safer (to my knowledge is using a dmm ring instead of the pinto. To retrieve it though you'd want a seperate retrieval line though or you'd be ring a bowline with a very long tail. 

[Rob Thompson]

43 minutes ago, Joe Newton said:

I use 4 way crabs for remote applications. One the crab goes through the pinto it gets rotated 180° with the gate orientated away from the stem. It would be practically impossible for the crab to rotate back, let alone for the 4 way lock to rub open. Safest mid line attachable canopy anchor that I know of.

 

The only other option that is safer (to my knowledge is using a dmm ring instead of the pinto. To retrieve it though you'd want a seperate retrieval line though or you'd be ring a bowline with a very long tail. 

Appreciate the input, cheers. Captain charisma did show a figure 8 that captured a ring, midline. I suppose that could be an option when using a ring. What's your favourite 4 way biner of choice ?

[Joe Newton]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CHccW_ZhFWJ/?igshid=1jocmjw474vt1

 

I don't know if this link works but it shows the dmm ring setup on Drew Bristow's Instagram. Dbtree on IG, @DrewB on here but I don't know if he visits much.

 

For the 4 way crab I just have a few of the dmm oval ones. Bit strange to get used to using but I use them on my harness attachment too and I don't notice the difference in difficulty