Go lo Pro?

[Wonky]

19 hours ago, dumper said:

Does anyone know how fast a chain contacts after being used and buy how much it obviously is dependant on chain temp and atmospheric temp differences ?

how long do you have between stopping cutting and saw bar damage?

The thing is the longer the bar the bigger the percentage of chain stretch.  Another thing to take into consideration is the temp of the bar as it will keep the chain warm.

 I think the real thing is knowing how tight you can tighten it,  then know when it’s to slack it and let it cool back down. 

There’s many ways to do something, it’s just up the the person to figure it out their best recipe  
I,m sure theirs a saying like.....to many cooks, also not reading between the lines  😉

[Khriss]

Wonder if using engineers cutting oil as chain lube, cheap and water based so will cool bars better than veg based oil, try differnt mixes- think Oregons version of it was 5 water to 1 oil , but you will stink after running it  😬  K

[peatff]

9 minutes ago, Khriss said:

Wonder if using engineers cutting oil as chain lube, cheap and water based so will cool bars better than veg based oil, try differnt mixes- think Oregons version of it was 5 water to 1 oil , but you will stink after running it  😬  K

 

It's like p!ss it would run straight off before it went round the bar. It's supposed to recirculate not get used up like bar oil

[Khriss]

19 minutes ago, peatff said:

 

It's like p!ss it would run straight off before it went round the bar. It's supposed to recirculate not get used up like bar oil

Mix it to consistency you want, but a hot summer day yr gonna smell 😉 K

[Wonky]

Abit more stink is ok ........cos I smell anyway, 🤫

[agg221]

13 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

The longest single head bar I know of are the 84” from GB and 84” cannon bar.
And if the 881 will pull a full comp 84” then the 090 will be fine.
Skip and hyper skip are best for long bars.
If only to reduce sharpening times!🤣
(And reduce mechanical stresses).
Any photos of your collection?

I have a Cannon 88" roller-nose bar that dates from somewhere in the 1970s. Allowing for the dogs, that gives me 86" in the wood. There is an old photo of it somewhere on the forum from around 2014 - if you haven't seen it I will find it and link to it.

 

I haven't tried full comp on an 84" bar on an 881. It would be interesting to hear from someone who had tried that as to how it went. I suspect that if they tried that in a piece of hard ash or oak as a rip cut it might bog down (using it full length, not in a mill) but happy to be proved wrong - I would expect it to work nicely in softer wood, or with skip chain.

I would expect skip or hyper skip to be pretty much unlimited on an 090. An 090G would probably be unstoppable - I always fancied an 090G Super myself but could never really really justify it. I do have an old Teles which runs but it uses an obsolete chain so it is a very long way down the projects list to figure out what to do to get it to the point where I can test it (no serious plans - just fancy a play!) The hydraulic versions of that ran up to about 16' bars I think, for clearing swamps in Malaya as it then was.

I don't actually have many photos - I am generally too busy trying to remember to get everything together, then trying to get there on time, then figuring out how to cut the log and then cutting it and tend to forget! The saws don't all live in the same place and some are quite difficult to get out - I had some stolen at one point so decided to make it more difficult for anyone to do that again, but it does have the side-effect of making it difficult for me if I want more than one (which I generally don't). If the weather holds I'll get out the 1106 collection (although probably not when my wife is around as it's best she doesn't know just how extensive it may have become...!)

 

Alec

[Ben scott]

Just got off the phone with GB in Australia.
No problems with the nose sprockets or chains.
It’s precision kit, highly refined.
Leaves a clean finish.
[emoji106]

Precision is questionable
When I first got my gb bar the paint on mounting slot was so thick that it wouldn’t fit
I got sent spare nose sprockets and one had four rivets the other had three and one mouse poop (or whatever Australian animal poops like a mouse)

[Ben scott]

another one bites the dust 

this was the quickest death of a nose sprocket yet 

it had one cut on a 3000mm long and 1000mm wide wellingtonia (redwood) which was very soft and was just to finish the job started buy the last nose sprocket 

and one and a half cuts on a sycamore crotch 1500mm long and up to 1000mm wide where it worked perfect for one cut and got half way though though the next and blew out 

as usual I've been using correct chain tension, extra oiler, wedges and letting the saw pull itself though the cut 

fed up this this lo pro... .404 is the way to go in my opinion if your running an 880 

have attached photos of the shagged sprocket 

[Rough Hewn]

I have a Cannon 88" roller-nose bar that dates from somewhere in the 1970s. Allowing for the dogs, that gives me 86" in the wood. There is an old photo of it somewhere on the forum from around 2014 - if you haven't seen it I will find it and link to it.

 

I haven't tried full comp on an 84" bar on an 881. It would be interesting to hear from someone who had tried that as to how it went. I suspect that if they tried that in a piece of hard ash or oak as a rip cut it might bog down (using it full length, not in a mill) but happy to be proved wrong - I would expect it to work nicely in softer wood, or with skip chain.

I would expect skip or hyper skip to be pretty much unlimited on an 090. An 090G would probably be unstoppable - I always fancied an 090G Super myself but could never really really justify it. I do have an old Teles which runs but it uses an obsolete chain so it is a very long way down the projects list to figure out what to do to get it to the point where I can test it (no serious plans - just fancy a play!) The hydraulic versions of that ran up to about 16' bars I think, for clearing swamps in Malaya as it then was.

I don't actually have many photos - I am generally too busy trying to remember to get everything together, then trying to get there on time, then figuring out how to cut the log and then cutting it and tend to forget! The saws don't all live in the same place and some are quite difficult to get out - I had some stolen at one point so decided to make it more difficult for anyone to do that again, but it does have the side-effect of making it difficult for me if I want more than one (which I generally don't). If the weather holds I'll get out the 1106 collection (although probably not when my wife is around as it's best she doesn't know just how extensive it may have become...!)

 

Alec

881 full comp 84” bar.

Hard 50”+ olive ash.

Listen to that sing!

 

 

[emoji106]

[Macpherson]

2 hours ago, Ben scott said:

another one bites the dust 

Just not enough material between the ID and the root of the teeth, I noticed from Ben Scott's pictures that the GB bar is only about half the width at the tip compared to the Stihl so it will have much more teeth and more material to the sprocket.

I know that my Stihl 36" bar is an option with a ' Y ' suffix which denotes 1 or 2 extra teeth 12 in total I think, can't remember which..... how many tips have you gone through ?