Husky e 245

[spudulike]

Just to add to ADWs post, I have had a few 350s that are a very similar design, leak from where the alloy crankcase top ( the one the cylinder fits on) leak where it clamps to the engineering plastic cradle that forms the lower crankcase. 

This is where slight warpage happens in the plastic and leaks on the front and rear of the upper crankcase clam so under the muffler and inlet manifold.

The remedy is to clean the old gasket material from both surfaces, degrease and then apply a decent liquid gasket compound and do it enthusiastically between the bolt holes front and rear. It works. 

I have used a 345 for a few years. Decent saw, a bit like a detuned 346...nice to use, light and perform well.

[organic guy]

Thanks for all the advice.

Stripped her down after re testing with flywheel and clutch removed. Leakage was from join between cylinder and plastic lower crankcase , not bearing seals. Cleaned her up and resealed with some red gasket. I tend to go a bit light for fear of spillage on the inside. She's up and running again. Just need to find some dry weather to get her warm to see if I have cured it.

How critical is the exhaust gasket? Mine is cracked. 

I assume it should be between the heat shield and the cylinder, not between the heat shield and the exhaust?

 

TIA 

OG

[spudulike]

Just replace the gasket when possible. If it leaks badly, the exhaust gasses can make the cylinder too hot and it may seize. It fits between the muffler and heat shield.

Glad it is back together and I am not talking bollocks like my wife thinks I do most of the time

[organic guy]

Ran two tanks of fuel through her this afternoon. Not entirely convinced that she is cured.

Was fine on first tank working hard but seemed low on power later.

Could she need a retune on the carb as she was stripped down?

[spudulike]

If the saw and carb have been apart then the carb will need to be retuned, especially as it was probably adjusted to accommodate the air leak. 

[organic guy]

Update on my saw. 

Air leak was not cured, stripped and re sealed with some different  sealant but still had issues. Restricted and pressure tested to find small leak either  side infront of crank bearing.

Striped, cleaned more diligently and new hylomar blue  and we appear to be there. Coughed a bit so cleaned carb gauze and seems OK. 🤞🤞🤞🤞

[organic guy]

Resurrecting my thread as the dear lady is playing up.

Not done massive amount of work as using electric for most of my hedgelaying.

Starts on 2 pull every time, runs and cuts perfectly, but as soon as I stop cutting and put the saw down she stalls. Then need to re purge to get her to start. Thought I would get advice before fiddling with idle.

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, organic guy said:

Resurrecting my thread as the dear lady is playing up.

Not done massive amount of work as using electric for most of my hedgelaying.

Starts on 2 pull every time, runs and cuts perfectly, but as soon as I stop cutting and put the saw down she stalls. Then need to re purge to get her to start. Thought I would get advice before fiddling with idle.

Just tweek the idle .

[peds]

I'm going to pull this thread up again as the Husky 345 workshop thread. Could we rename it maybe? The title is misleading. 

 

Clearing ground around a new build on Thursday, lots of debris. I was so careful to avoid the mess of barbed wire, rebar, plasterer's corners, etc... but I managed to bite an invisible tangle of builder's string while removing coppiced growth of an old sycamore. Wrapped around the sprocket, saw stops dead. I took the clutch cover off, bar and chain off, clear the tangle completely and put it back together, but then the chain moves with each tug of the pull cord, starts and runs at full rev with finger on the trigger, but then dies straight away with finger off the trigger.

 

I got home and took it all off again, poked around behind the clutch and sprocket a bit, then put the cover back on with no bar, no chain... and she idled okay. But then with bar and chain on again, same story... pull cord moves the chain, runs at full rev, dies straight away. 

 

Where to go from here? Other than investing in a new 550, which has been on the cards for a while now, but I'd still like to get this one going again. It's a great little saw, doesn't owe me a penny.

Edited February 8 by peds

[openspaceman]

3 hours ago, peds said:

I'm going to pull this thread up again as the Husky 345 workshop thread. Could we rename it maybe? The title is misleading. 

 

Clearing ground around a new build on Thursday, lots of debris. I was so careful to avoid the mess of barbed wire, rebar, plasterer's corners, etc... but I managed to bite an invisible tangle of builder's string while removing coppiced growth of an old sycamore. Wrapped around the sprocket, saw stops dead. I took the clutch cover off, bar and chain off, clear the tangle completely and put it back together, but then the chain moves with each tug of the pull cord, starts and runs at full rev with finger on the trigger, but then dies straight away with finger off the trigger.

 

I got home and took it all off again, poked around behind the clutch and sprocket a bit, then put the cover back on with no bar, no chain... and she idled okay. But then with bar and chain on again, same story... pull cord moves the chain, runs at full rev, dies straight away. 

 

Where to go from here? Other than investing in a new 550, which has been on the cards for a while now, but I'd still like to get this one going again. It's a great little saw, doesn't owe me a penny.

If it was plastic string it will have melted into various places, including the sprocket nose bearing.