Husky e 245

[organic guy]

Sorry, my bad, read the model number off the outside and 3 looked like a 2! No idea where I got the "e" from!  Just had a thought, my bad typing may have let the "e" escape from "Huskey" ! 

Edited March 15, 2021 by organic guy
addition

[spudulike]

Ah, 345, the common places to get air leaks are the base of the top cylinder where it meets the engineered plastic lower crankcase cradle, the inlet manifold can split around the impulse nipple connector on the inlet manifold or the impulse line can come off where it joins the manifold clamp or the plastic plate the carb screws in to. 

If the air leak was pretty fast in happening, it is likely to be the impulse connector or possibly the manifold but if it was much slower in happening, the cylinder base is more likely.

 

[adw]

Bloody Hell Steve leave something for me to comment on, all I can do is iterate what Spud has said.

[spudulike]

Sorry ADW, I used to own a 345 and have done a fair few 350s so know this range well. It was the 245 thing that threw me and thought I would leave it to you

[organic guy]

Only just got back to my saw. Checked all pipe work etc all seemed fine so stripped her right down and found a miss placed bearing cover in the bottom of the cylinder, my bad! Put her back together and she fired second pull. Just need to adjust the idle and hopefully she will remain a goer.

Many thanks for your help spudulike and ADW.

[spudulike]

Glad it worked out and looks like a fixed saw.

[organic guy]

Resurrecting this topic. This saw has been my go to saw since sorting with everyones advice 2 years ago. Started brilliantly 2 pull ever since. Mainly only put a tank full of fuel through it during each session hedgelaying.

Just done second session working her hard logging up some elm.

1st symptom was she did not return to idle after cutting, she then bogged as I revved up but ran fine at full throttle., then stalled when I dropped revs.

Purge bulb felt very soft when pumped, needed 10 pumps, she would then start and run.

I guess a fuelling issue, carb strip?

TIA

 

OG

[spudulike]

The not returning to idle could be an air leak or just a sticky throttle control. If you pop the top cover off, rev the saw and manually push the throttle closed with the linkage on the carb itself. If the saw still doesn't snap down to a decent idle, it looks like you have an air leak.

If this isn't sorted, it could seize your saw.

The issue may be carb related so worth checking the gauze strainer, diaphragms and ensuring the throttle butterfly and spring are shutting off correctly.

[organic guy]

Checked her over yesterday, from cold seemed no problem at all, checked throttle linkage, was free and returned to idle fine. It appears I have a problem when she is hot.

Did not want to delve any deeper until I had the expert view.

 

TIA

 

OG

[spudulike]

Try the same when hot as well.

It may just be that the carb needs a retune, perhaps a little richer on the L screw.

An air leak should affect cold and hot running. 

These saws can leak air between the top crankcase clamp and the engineered plastic engine cradle. This can often be resolved with stripping, cleaning and resealing with a thicker coating of liquid gasket. I have had a few like this.