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The Wee Chipper Club


TimberCutterDartmoor

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I think I need new chipper blades for my JB M300 - does anyone know the min width that blades can be sharpened down to or is it just a case of 'when the adjustment runs out (or can't be adjusted enough)' then they need replacing?  Is Northern Arb the best/cheapest place to get them from?  I'm only a home user - about 10 hours per year, so I'm not looking for super duper made of unobtanium last a lifetime megga hard blades, just blades that will do.  I have a local saw blade sharpening place to sharpen them to the correct angles (all 4 faces) and my 'old' set were sharpened but I think they were pretty much on their last legs then.

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I would never risk second rate blades; go cheap, pay twice when they break.  Get the real deal from Global Recycling.

You should be getting at least 20 hours chipping from each sharpen; a set of blades will last a lifetime at 10 hours a year.

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I would never risk second rate blades; go cheap, pay twice when they break.  Get the real deal from Global Recycling.
You should be getting at least 20 hours chipping from each sharpen; a set of blades will last a lifetime at 10 hours a year.
For M500 the Rotatech blades are more expensive than genuine from Global. I get the genuine ones too.
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Hey up boys, i just replaced the small tank filter on my cs100 and its transformed the starting. Its just started before id finished turning the key after id had tank off and all sorts. Was £16 quid from briggs dealer near me, 10 minute job. Could tell it was blocked as fuel was only dripping out of the line even with the tap open. Part number 808116S. 

 

Also fitted new starter solenoid after ruling out starter/battery voltage by direct starting across solenoid terminals. £13, quite a tricky jubilee clip so if you have chute off ever do it then.

 

blasted air filter with air while i was going about all this and gave all fuel pipes a wipe down with wd40. Greased starter/flywheel teeth.

 

i love this thread, particularly the mods!
 

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The Chinesium chippette's first job.

Yesterdays job was a 5 beech prune.

The branches cut were thin and long, easy for the machine to handle.

There is more noise than a CS100, resonance from the chute and clutch.

The narrow infeed, some 11cm narrower than the GM is noticable and will certainly take more work snedding.

I had to adjust a bolt on the chute hinge sensor as the engine cut out a couple of times. 

Today is a half day for me as the kids have a half day on Wednesdays. So a small job, a walnut prune at the bottom of a garden.

Thursday and Friday with Mrs Lee, 3 birches and a Thuya hedge to remove with all chip staying on site.

Biggest challenge will be to drag the machine up the steps.

Mrs Lee has a new Stihl battery saw for snedding which runs a 1/4 chain.

I tried it myself yesterday. It is smooth fast and light, safer too.

 I'd have bought a self propelled Haecksler but ww have a truck to replace at some point and I don't need a wee chipper enough (for now) to warrant the expense.

Besides, both climbers have a CS100 if I need a climber-chippette combo.

Stuart

 

20200922_095650.jpg

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I hope it works for you.

The centre of gravity looks high; how did you find wheeling it about?  Did it want to suddenly tip forward or back?

 

I know someone here with the powered wheel assisted Haecksler and he says he's unsure about its benefit. he may be no worse off without the wheel and its motor and hence its extra weight; after all the third wheel only adds a limited amount of drive - it's an assist mechanism, not a full drive mechanism.

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46 minutes ago, nepia said:

I hope it works for you.

The centre of gravity looks high; how did you find wheeling it about?  Did it want to suddenly tip forward or back?

 

I know someone here with the powered wheel assisted Haecksler and he says he's unsure about its benefit. he may be no worse off without the wheel and its motor and hence its extra weight; after all the third wheel only adds a limited amount of drive - it's an assist mechanism, not a full drive mechanism.

It being a close copy of the GMCS100, I'm well used to feeding these and it is no more or less stable moving or transporting. However the towbar out front gives it an edge on stability when feeding and it can be tied down or weighted further. I'm not going to stress the machine by feeding it up to it's limit regularly. I did a trial at home on hazel and was pleased with it's performance but the blades where not torqued down enough and material got in under the one, lifting it so it came into contact with the anvil, lightly.

I quickly settled that hash. The blades are far less meaty than a GMCS100.

I'll fit a tacho to to measure blade wear and for servicing.

It is lashing down now so I've bailed until this arvo.

Quoting for a bio-mass job instead, a far cry from tiddling around with a wee chippette.

  Stuart

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Well... it was only a small walnut this arvo but feeding those springy right angled twigs into that narrow hopper have exhausted me unlike the long thin beech branches yesterday.

It also mysteriously cuts out and won't start for ages.

That I am sure is down to the hopper sensor which I think I'll remove.

   Stuart

   

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