Husqvarna 236 won’t idle

[Treerover]

A customer gave me a little Husky 236 X torx in very good condition .

Starts ok, revs ok but I can’t get it to idle without the chain creeping , and if I wind out the idle screw gently it then stalls .

I’ve reset both the high and low to 2 turns out and adjusted the low but it won’t have it.

Any ideas ?

I’m pretty familiar with tuning all my Stihls but this Husqy is proving obstinate ☹️

The only thing I can think is it may need new clutch spring?

Any pointers ?

What’s the best starting point for the hi lo screws to be wound out to ?

Many thanks [emoji1317]

[Moose McAlpine]

Have you removed the clutch drum and checked the needle bearing? If they're damaged or seized they'll cause chain creep like weak clutch springs.

[Treerover]

Have you removed the clutch drum and checked the needle bearing? If they're damaged or seized they'll cause chain creep like weak clutch springs.

Yes Moosey I’ve done that. All looks nicely lubed and spins freely .
I shall take another look now though [emoji1303]

[peatff]

When my 135 was doing the same thing I eventually found it was the oil pump drive sticking on the crank. I reamed it out with some wet and dry on a dowel and greased it and it's been good ever since.

[Stubby]

8 minutes ago, peatff said:

When my 135 was doing the same thing I eventually found it was the oil pump drive sticking on the crank. I reamed it out with some wet and dry on a dowel and greased it and it's been good ever since.

Useful to know . 👍

[spudulike]

It does sound like the clutch drum is catching the clutch so a bad needle bearing or a weak clutch spring could be the issue. If you set the idle to something that sounds about right (technical talk for 2800rpm), If the chain creeps, does putting the chain brake on stop the chain but the saw continues to idle OK or does it stall? Don't do this for any length of time as the drum may get hot.

My bet would be a weak clutch spring or it may have been stretched/damaged if removed before. 

 

[adw]

Be very careful removing the clutch do not be tempted to jar off with a hammer and punch as the legs are sintered and will snap of, make sure the washers behind the sprocket and clutch are assembled correctly, this machine is from the Poulan factory so do not expect too much from it, it was re introduced as the 120 mark 11, same saw!

[Treerover]

It does sound like the clutch drum is catching the clutch so a bad needle bearing or a weak clutch spring could be the issue. If you set the idle to something that sounds about right (technical talk for 2800rpm), If the chain creeps, does putting the chain brake on stop the chain but the saw continues to idle OK or does it stall? Don't do this for any length of time as the drum may get hot.
My bet would be a weak clutch spring or it may have been stretched/damaged if removed before. 
 

Hi Spudders, yes it stalls every time . I’ve ordered the clutch spring so I’ll work backwards from there .
I’ve taken out the needle bearing and greased it and it seems ok, but that will be next on the list then if the spring doesn’t win [emoji1303]

[Treerover]

Be very careful removing the clutch do not be tempted to jar off with a hammer and punch as the legs are sintered and will snap of, make sure the washers behind the sprocket and clutch are assembled correctly, this machine is from the Poulan factory so do not expect too much from it, it was re introduced as the 120 mark 11, same saw!

No I’ve perfected the clutch removal with a pair of thin nosed mole grips in the recesses turned by a BIG adjustable !!!!
The washers seem ok to be honest.
The small washer came off sat between the sprocket and the body, with the big washer sat inside the clutch drum between it and the clutch.
I’m assuming that that’s correct ? 🤷🏼‍♂️

[spudulike]

I reckon that the spring will be the issue. Fitting it can be an interesting experience. A bench vice and assembling the bottom half before putting it in to the vice helps. Mole grips usually come in to getting the spring back in to position. Make sure that the spring isn't bent or damaged when fitting, the first one is usually an experience. Once the spring is in the bottom half and in a vice, push the spring in to the top clutch shoe, clamp it with the mole grips and then I usually lift the shoe with a screw driver whilst forcing the spring in to the shoe with plumbers grips. 

 

I am sure ADW has a factory tool for the job, bless him but us mere mortals use hammers😉.......and take the ridicule and abuse!!

 

I am thinking the spring is pretty shot and is allowing the clutch to be always engaged thus the stalling when the brake is applied.

The most obvious is usually the route cause.