Felling Rotten / Hollow trees

[ABtrees]

Help !  Looking for some guidance (probably more theoretical than practical).  I find myself coming across quite a few rotten or hollow trees some (out of harms way), I just leave for the next big storm and tidy up afterwards !  Others I can't ignore - danger to my family or the general public - and as such they need to be taken down.  I usually try to get a handle on how much sound wood I'm dealing with (bore cut and see what comes out !) but I have been massively wrong on a couple of occasions which is slightly worrying. 

 

So (as yet another example of my ignorance), my question is this: Is there an approved method of evaluating the extent of the sound wood (to create a decent hinge) or do I just carry on working on what feels right as I cut ?

 

And/or is there a special felling cut for hollow/rotten trees that anyone on here can suggest or can you share with me how you deal with them in practice pls. ? 

 

Go easy on me guys - I need something fairly simple - I'm in the middle of rural France and don't have access to too many (enough!) fancy toys and gizmos !

 

[drinksloe]

A lot might depend on tree species.

In most trees most of strength is in the sap wood round edges rather than the heart wood.

With big soft woods esp if over aged ( tends to be more butt rot in over aged stands) I'm always careful about taking toes/buttress roots off near where I want hinge to be.

They can add a lot of strength f in right place.

 

Otherwise get a rope/winch on it, learn to use a throw line to get rope up into tree, makes life easier.

 

But every tree is different anyway and needs to be assessed but even more so if faults or rotten.

And keep ur head on a swivel watching for any falling limbs.

Not really for beginners.

 

There is a clip online of a tree just imploding with a cutter below it, he doesn't know which way to run.

Bloody scary stuff as it looks like he knew wot he was doing, a fair stick as well.

[ABtrees]

8 hours ago, drinksloe said:

A lot might depend on tree species.

In most trees most of strength is in the sap wood round edges rather than the heart wood.

With big soft woods esp if over aged ( tends to be more butt rot in over aged stands) I'm always careful about taking toes/buttress roots off near where I want hinge to be.

They can add a lot of strength f in right place.

 

Otherwise get a rope/winch on it, learn to use a throw line to get rope up into tree, makes life easier.

 

But every tree is different anyway and needs to be assessed but even more so if faults or rotten.

And keep ur head on a swivel watching for any falling limbs.

Not really for beginners.

 

There is a clip online of a tree just imploding with a cutter below it, he doesn't know which way to run.

Bloody scary stuff as it looks like he knew wot he was doing, a fair stick as well.

Thanks for the reply Drinksloe.   They're usually old Oaks.  I take on board the point you make about toes and buttresses and I'm always glancing up the tree as I cut (maybe I should get one of those new back protectors !).  Generally I can take my time doing my assessment / investigative bits.  I took one down on Sunday which has been troubling me for a while - rotten 'pixie door' at the base, rot extended at least 1.2m up inside so I cut above tis point.  I got the throw line where I wanted it (about 15m up and over the best looking junction - tree was 25m + very top heavy and back leaning a bit) and rope on the tractor and a couple of ratchet straps on to try to contain any barber chair action (or at least to give me another 1/2 a second head start !).   All went fine and it ended up landing on my target stick!!! - so I can't complain.  But when I inspected the stump I was more than a bit surprised  by how little wood (hinge) I had had. See pic below.

 

I'm really just trying to do things correctly and in a way that gives me more confidence before I start so all suggestions (theory or practical are always welcome. Thanks.

[lux]

All dead wood is far less forgiving to fell or cut, being hollow with rot exaggerates this no end. Learn a little about the different types of rot and how they affect the structure of the timber. That might help you with how you go about cutting.
As previously mention use mechanical advantage to help. A portable winch or just setting up a double / triple purchase can really help.
A lot of it will come down to simply how it feels as you begin making cuts. Watch the crown as well as the cut , it will tell you a lot about what’s happening as you are cutting.
I don’t think there is a real problem solving answer for you. Just keep safety top of the list when dealing with these sorts of trees and if it goes wrong at least you shouldn’t get hurt [emoji106]

[Stubby]

Loose the green wellies . all will be fine .?

[David Cropper]

1 hour ago, Stubby said:

Loose the green wellies . all will be fine .?

Green wellies? Height of fashion out here!

[Stubby]

3 hours ago, David Cropper said:

Green wellies? Height of fashion out here!

Oh yes . I have 2 X pairs myself . 1 X Harkila ( sip side ) 1 X LeChameau . Not the B+Q specials in the pic ?

[David Cropper]

5 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Oh yes . I have 2 X pairs myself . 1 X Harkila ( sip side ) 1 X LeChameau . Not the B+Q specials in the pic ?

You're a bleeding Welly Snob! I have x2 pair of Aigle, one green and, just to make you incandescent with rage, one pair of brown! That's me on the Stubby crap list of Fashion Victims. I will now burn both pairs. 

[Moose McAlpine]

23 hours ago, ABtrees said:

I'm in the middle of rural France.

 

Oooh! What part?

[ABtrees]

12 hours ago, Stubby said:

Not the B+Q specials in the pic

Was trying not to get involved in the derail (as I'm genuinely keen to learn) but ……..  Stubby, if you're going to be the fashion police I feel it's important you know your wellies before you start flinging them !  So those are NOT B&Q's - they are Noras (here we go !) - the staple footwear of any self respecting dairy farmer (not that I am one!) - they're plastic not rubber, very hard wearing and as, wellies go I highly recommend them ( but not for chainsawing !).  For the record, I also have a pair of bright orange ones (yes, you know the make) and a pair of Chameau - both of which I find uncomfortable after a couple of hours - I have odd feet !

 

So as not to offend I'll try and keep my footwear out of future pics but I had to get up there to illustrate my point !!!!!